Charter cylinder wierdness

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WestKentucky

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B7DB214F-5399-442C-98EC-CF021045921F.jpeg E3696E20-8B6A-4E28-8631-BDA05C836C4B.jpeg I have been messing around with the charter arms revolver I got a couple weeks ago and I can’t get past what seems like a quirk I’m not gonna like. Im not sure if this is normal, or if something is broken or missing. I’m used to mainly S&W but also other brands where the ejector star pushes spent rounds out and snaps back into place as soon as your hand is off of the ejector rod. My charter is not like that, and it seems to be made this way. Is this just a quirk of it being a charter? I dont really understand why they would make it that way, however I do notice that the gun functions essentially as a triple locked cylinder because of its design. Is this normal for the extractor star to not retract all the way back in? It leaves roughly 1/4” exposed, but the channel where the cylinder rod comes up through the yoke cutout the spring loaded collar actually moves forward and snaps back into the frame locking the cylinder at the front, at the rear with the center pin, and then once again at the bolt where it locks rotational motion.

black on black with cell phone... hopefully the napkin gives a clear enough color break to understand what I mean. Notice the extractor is still out and bout under tension, and the ejector rod barely fits through the slot indicating that at least that end of properly configured.
 
Something is bent. I've never heard of any hand-eject revolver with a non-retracting ejector star and the videos of Charter Arms revolvers I've seen show typical operation of the ejector/extractor.
 
have a similar charter revolver, an older one....should snap back. mine does. mine has a different issue. when the cylinder is out. it will allows the cylinder to skip past the stop at certain position the cylinder is in. i assumed it came from abuse and bet from someone slapping shut the cylinder before i got it. annoying but allows me to clean it better so I just ignore it rather than getting it fixed.

unless it's really cruded up...... lifetime warranty send it in.
 
WestKentucky

Never had that kind of issue with my Undercover though mine did slip past the cylinder stop like jhb alluded to. Cylinder was out of alignment due to the crane screw backing out from the frame. Once it was tightened back down no more problem.
 
Something is bent. I've never heard of any hand-eject revolver with a non-retracting ejector star and the videos of Charter Arms revolvers I've seen show typical operation of the ejector/extractor.

Yes, in the top picture the star looks bent to me.
 
Star isn’t bent. It’s a funky angle where I was trying to show the distance. Disassembling, reassembling, and comparing to the videos on youtube featuring a charter armorer, it seems like I am missing a cylinder washer. Also I don’t have to “break” the cylinder loose with a mallet. Seems like maybe the cylinder washer is what somehow locks Inside of the cylinder and puts spring pressure on the rod towards the front of the gun.
 
Even just a very small bend in the rod that runs through the cylinder to the star can result in binding. I suppose there could be some other problem, but there is a problem. It should definitely retract when pressure is released.
 
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Even just a very small bend in the rod that runs through the cylinder to the star can result in binding. I suppose there could be some other problem, but there is a problem. It should definitely retract when pressure is released.
There is no binding whatsoever. There is no spring tension pushing at all. The spring inside of the cylinder is captive at both ends with nowhere to move. Hits cylinder on one end and crane on the other. The only other springs in the mechanism are either on the ejector rod cap or on the pin in the center of the star. I’m pretty sure I have identified my issue at this point, and possibly even understand how it works. I just need to find a source to buy the part.
 
There is no spring tension pushing at all.
Ok. Then I don't understand these two quotes from your first post.
Is this normal for the extractor star to not retract all the way back in? ...

...Notice the extractor is still out and bout under tension...
If it retracts part of the way, how is it doing that with no spring tension? And what does the last quote mean?
...it seems like I am missing a cylinder washer.
How is that possible? It's not like it could just fall out. (I'm assuming that it wasn't doing this when you checked it out before purchasing it.)
 
A picture is worth a thousand words...
C39A0845-F975-4A6C-BDBE-C122F4B2FB83.jpeg
There is supposed to be a washer in between the yoke and the extractor. It has to be a tight fitting part that essentially works like a Splitring, but there isn’t a slot for a splitring. The spring would push against the inside of the cylinder and towards the front of the gun and if the part under tension is stuck to the extractor rod then the extractor rod must move forward like it’s supposed to. I need that washer... or perhaps to cut a groove for a splitring and make that work out.
 
Ok. Then I don't understand these two quotes from your first post.If it retracts part of the way, how is it doing that with no spring tension? And what does the last quote mean?
The partial retraction is done by the spring at the front of the ejector rod between the collar and the rod head. The slop is exactly the distance between the yoke and the collar. The second quote got jacked up by autocorrect I think... but the intent was to say that there is no tension at all for this roughly 1/4” of travel.
 
Well, that's a pretty simple fix compared to trying to straighten something. You might get lucky taking your parts to a hardware store and looking for washers that fit. Or someplace like Numrich or Jack First might have the part in stock.
 
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I have found Charter Arms to have fantastic customer support. Please, give them a call and see what they suggest.
 
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My three are from 1966, 1985, and 1987. All three of them have ejector rods that snap smartly back into place when released.

The oldest one has the screw in the recoil shield sometimes threading itself deeper inside. When this happens, the cylinder release won't push the center pin far enough to open the cylinder. Fortunately, pulling the other end of the rod is a good backup means to opening it.

Separate issue, I know, but figured I'd throw that out there, too, since you have what appears to be an older gun.
 
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