Do 1911 disconnectors break in?

So, it was hanging up while shooting? Was not clear to me.

Should not need to break in if the part is good. Still, shoot is some more and see is my prescription.

Things to watch for: Is your grip on the pistol firm? (no accusations here, just a question)

Does your ammo plunk? (I assume factory ammo, but even so, some ammo can cause a failure to return to battery) If you can, choose a different brand of ammo, I would do so. What ammo did you use on the first trip?

Are the rails clean and residue-free? Oil on the frame rails, and on the slide rails? I ask this because I assume the frame is aluminum on a LWC. I would think keeping a little more oil than normal on it during break-in would be a good idea.

I bet it will clear up, but I'm interested in your responses. Good luck with it. Ruger makes a fine 1911.

I can feel the disconnector when slowly racking the slide, but my 1911 has never hung up on the disconnector during shooting.

However, it is possible you have a burr on your disconnector that could cause a hangup.

Common 1911 issues to understand -

- all 1911 slides are the same, regardless of caliber. The 9mm slide weighs the same as the .45 Auto/10mm slide. Conversely, a Glock in .45 Auto/10mm is a completely different gun than a 9mm Glock.

- since the 1911 slides are the same, and 9mm generally recoils less than .45 Auto, if you're choosing 9mm at the lower end of the weight and power ranges (115 gr ball, for instance), you may not have enough energy to drive the slide appropriately.

- the WilsonCombatRep on another forum once commented 50% of their returns for service are corrected by properly lubricating the gun.
- side point to that, Wilson does not recommend their grease (which is a pourable grease) for their pistols. A 9mm 1911 should not use grease.

I'd not use grease on a 9mm 1911.

Wilson Combat has some tips on 9mm 1911's in their FAQ section that may be helpful

https://www.wilsoncombat.com/faqs/

The leaf spring, where it contacts the disconnector, is where most of the problem comes from when the slide hangs up on the disconnector. A slight bevel and polish of that point of the leaf spring, along with polishing the disconnector at the same point will likely take care of the issue. One way to see what I'm talking about is to depress the disconnector and you should feel the hang-up between these parts.

Wilson also list recommendations in their Ultima Lube II pages. I'm not pushing Wilson Ultima Lube II, though it is good, but they have a recommendation for lube choices for caliber and temp use. For instance a 9mm would be considered minor caliber.

https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Ultima-Lube-II-Oil-2-oz-Bottle/productinfo/577-2/

Ultima-Lube II is Available in Four Formulations:

Ultima-Lube II Lite Oil - Very low viscosity. Ideal for extreme cold weather use. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of minor caliber.

Ultima-Lube II Oil - Thin viscosity penetrates hard to get to areas. Ideal for cold weather use, 10° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of all types.

Ultima-Lube II Universal - All purpose lube for all types of firearms. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Service pistols/revolvers and broken-in custom handguns, Long guns of all action types, AR style rifles in the 20° to 50° F temperature range.

Ultima-Lube II Grease - Ideal for heavy wear areas. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Full and Semi-Auto rifles and carbines, Optimal in AR style rifles at temperatures above 50° F.

Click to expand...

OIL! Grease will cause my 9mm 1911 slide to slow unless temps are in the 80's or above. I think you found your problem.

BC17A said:

The leaf spring, where it contacts the disconnector, is where most of the problem comes from when the slide hangs up on the disconnector. A slight bevel and polish of that point of the leaf spring, along with polishing the disconnector at the same point will likely take care of the issue. One way to see what I'm talking about is to depress the disconnector and you should feel the hang-up between these parts.

Click to expand...

BTDT.
My Springfield's sear spring was so rough that FLG just replaced it and polished the disconnector bevel where the tip of the sear spring had gouged the MIM.

sabbfan said:

I put 50 rounds through it yesterday and twice the slide hung up on the disconnector instead of going in to battery.

Click to expand...

I had that trouble with my first 9mm 1911, a Springer.
Part of the trouble is the reduced recoil spring weight for 9mm's. A 10# spring just doesn't push as hard as a 16# spring during return to battery, so it's more likely to get hung up there.
On mine it was a poorly machined disconnector hole in the frame causing the disconnector to hang up. Looks like the drill bit broke going through the frame. They had to replace the frame.

And I don't think all 1911 slides are the same. My 9mm Springer had a full weight slide and it required a 10# spring to run most 9mm loads. +p ammo would cycle with a 12# spring, and it ran much better with the +p ammo and the 12# spring, rarely getting hung up on the disconnector.

My Kimber 9mm Target II seems to have a lightened slide, (don't have a scale, but a side by side with a 45 slide it feels lighter) and it runs standard 9mm ammo with a 12# or 13# spring.
Even reduced handloads will run with a 12# spring in the Kimber.

It may break in, it may need a trip back to Ruger, give it 500 rounds at least. Use a nice synthetic motor oil and 124 grain ammo.

Wow, I've been lubing my 9mm 1911's wrong for years.

I use LSA on them. It's a grease. A very thin grease. A pourable grease.

Too many people hear grease and think of the NGLI #2 stuff that they use on their trailer bearings. Greases come in many consistencies, just like oil.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number

https://www.cherrybalmz.com/history-vietnam-and-the-great-disconnect

The last link should be required reading.

I'm not recommending this, but here's an interesting solution.

Ruger makes a fairly tight 1911 and I suspect your entire action is stiff, making the somewhat anemic by comparison 9mm recoil insufficient to fully cycle the slide. The entire action will likely brake in enough to rectify this when cycled several hundred times.

Kimber was also known for tight frame rail fitting and used to require a 400-500 round brake in before they'd take a 1911 back for service.

Shoot that bad boy and then tell us whether or not your problem goes away.