Buffer Weight Material

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Dustbowl

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I’ve been working on this budget ar build of late that has an slight over gas issue. It absolutely chews brass up. It’s ejects at 3 o’clock but at a distance from 14-18 feet. This is out of a mid length gas system with an 18 inch barrel, outfitted with a standard buffer. I believe my bolt is traveling much too fast.

I’ve been thinking of an adjustable gas block but the price is an issue. I’ve also been looking at heavy buffers but then I thought if I know the weight of the buffer I need and can measure it accurately, why not just use lead for weight?

My question is if I remove one of the stock weights and beat a few round balls into shape and cut them down for proper weight would there be any reason it won’t work in a pinch to adjust this bolt speed issue.

Just for reference this build is a bear creek upper in .223 Wylde and an Andersen lower.
 
I've recently dealt with this issue on a build of mine. Well, it wasn't really an issue, but I was shopping buffers and was really surprised by how expensive they are. I have an H2 and wanted to get an H and H3 to play around with, but when I saw the prices, I thought it was just ridiculous. I mean...it's a buffer. And the ridiculous prices they are charging for springs. Mil Spec, a few bucks, something reduced or heavier, might a well buy a dinner for one.

Anyway, I decided to just go to the source of what I'm trying to tame and figured I'd just try reducing the gas instead of trying to tame it's effects. I ran across 3CRTactical. They actually have a steel low profile gas block for $25. Mind you, it isn't anything extravagant. It's a simple screw to control the gas and set screw to lock the screw that controls the gas. I'm sure that over time, it's gonna get locked into place due to carbon fouling. More of a set it and forget it proposition. Anyway, I tried one out. Went with a plain Jane carbine buffer, tuned to lock open on an empty mag on steel cased ammo and tightened it down. A combination of a J Comp and the adjustable gas block on my 10.5 build turned it into a pussy cat. The reticle doesn't move from the target and I don't get that nose dive that you can get from running a heavy buffer.

Due to the results I got, I ordered a Sentry 7 adjustable gas block. It's kind of funny, but I've installed adjustable gas blocks for others and even tuned them, but never ran drills with an AR that had one. It never occurred to me to try one until I got into AR pistols. I can't believe what I've been missing.
 
I have always found that adjusting the gas is better than adjusting the buffer weight. That said I have an adjustable case block sitting on the shelf and have never had to use it. The right gas port in the barrel is always the best option.
 
I run adj gas blocks on all my builds. Alone with H2 buffers.

Buffer weights:
H = 3.8 oz
H2 = 4.7 oz
H3 = 5.6 oz

Why would you run an adjustable gas block AND a heavier buffer? Is there an advantage in doing this?
 
Why would you run an adjustable gas block AND a heavier buffer? Is there an advantage in doing this?

If you do it right you can get a really soft recoiling/cylcing gun but just about the time you get it tuned to be really soft you find it's getting picking about ammo choices. But I agree added a heavy buffer is usually the way to deal with a slightly overgassed gun without going to the trouble of changing gas blocks to an adjustable. It works if it only a bit overgassed. The heavier buffer can also help with bolt bonce in some full auto guns but only a few of us have the privilege of that problem...
 
If you do it right you can get a really soft recoiling/cylcing gun but just about the time you get it tuned to be really soft you find it's getting picking about ammo choices. But I agree added a heavy buffer is usually the way to deal with a slightly overgassed gun without going to the trouble of changing gas blocks to an adjustable. It works if it only a bit overgassed. The heavier buffer can also help with bolt bonce in some full auto guns but only a few of us have the privilege of that problem...

My AR is shooting really soft. I suppose that I underestimate what sort of under taking swapping a gas block is for some. I put mine on in ten minutes, but I guess for most, it isn't that easy. Once I get this Sentry 7 gas block in, I'm really going to do some experimenting. I plan to run a bunch of rounds through this AR. New setup to get used to.
 
It’s not the undertaking of the disassembly of the gun that’s keeping me from switching the gas block. I have already had it all the way apart twice for cleaning and feed ramp polishing. I just needed to know if lead would work as a buffer weight.

I may try the adjustable block Tony Angel recommended. I’ve got a couple projects already sucking up all of my expendable funds so I’m trying to keep this on a budget at this time.
 
It’s not the undertaking of the disassembly of the gun that’s keeping me from switching the gas block. I have already had it all the way apart twice for cleaning and feed ramp polishing. I just needed to know if lead would work as a buffer weight.

I may try the adjustable block Tony Angel recommended. I’ve got a couple projects already sucking up all of my expendable funds so I’m trying to keep this on a budget at this time.
Seams lead would be to soft, I less it was contained some how.
 
Seams lead would be to soft, I less it was contained some how.

The softness of lead would actually help with bolt bounce. Think like a dead-blow hammer. Standard buffers have high damping ratio elastomer pads/washers between the three weights to effect a similar result. The problem with lead is density. Steel is just shy of 8 g/cc for most alloys. Pure lead is ~11.3 g/cc A modest increase (~40%). but the tungsten buffer used in an H1, H2, or H3 buffer is usually 17 - 19 g/cc depending on the alloy. This is over 100% more dense than steel. So if you took all the weights out and filled the buffer with lead you would still only have slightly more weight than an H1.
 
So I decided off of mcb’s information to take all the weights out of my buffer and fill it with lead. It did weight out to just over h1 and now my ar ejects between 2-3 o’clock about 4 feet from the gun while still reliable. It has a bit more recoil now because of the added buffer weight but has solved the problem.

When I get the chance to get the adjustable gas block I’m sure I can nip this over gas issue at the source, rather than this weighted bandaid. A lead filled buffer has solved the bolt speed, brass chew, and ejection problems at the moment.
 
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I am experimenting with a Rubber City Armory adjustable gas key on an AR 11.5 inch barrel pistol build. The barrel I got for that already had the FS Gas Block fixed on the chrome lined barrel so I did not want to go to the hassle of changing gas blocks for a blaster grade pistol. I'll file a range report when I can as I finished it about the time China Flu was beginning to sweep the nation.

FWIW, a rival company makes a similar product but the RCA gas key was rated a bit better. We will see.

Oh, one last thing, users report that changing the key's gas setting gets more difficult on any of these as the rifle gets more use probably due to hardened carbon freezing it into position. Best to figure out what ammo you want to fire out of it and adjust the key for that ammo and forget it. We will see about that as well.
 
I took a buffer apart. I put lead in the center of a few of the spacers til I got it right. Then made my rifle shot correctly with the ammo to be used.
 
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