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you may simply be reintroducing fouling back into the bore with the brush. after brushing just push a couple wet patches through to pull out the fouling until they come out mostly clean, then a dry patch or 2. if at this point you put the same brush back into the bore you just used to scrub it with, patches will come out looking dirty again, but you're not necessarily making the bore any cleaner. I do something like, wet patch, repeat wet patch until they don't look real dirty, then wet patch and let sit, then wet patch - it will look kind of dirty again, then solvent soaked brush, wet patch, again until mostly clean looking … then repeat solvent brushing or simply dry patch until they come out clean to remove all solvent and oil to finish.



true enough, but the brush will only show blue or green - for copper.
black is powder fouling, and a result of inadequate cleaning from years gone by.
I have had some MILSURPS take several days of cleaning to finally show a clean patch.
that's why I switched to foaming bore cleaner - much less work - no scrubbing required!
 
It's a learning curve - I'm still on for sure. I have a couple rifles I've never fired, had them for 3 years. Get them out and clean them a couple times a year, and the bores look like mirrors, no pitting, just really good and clean. Each time I clean them, you'd swear someone just fired a dozen or so rounds through them, first couple patches come out looking like they are covered in dark powder fouling. Same thing, every six months, for three years.
 
I’ve always been a little confused by products labeled as bore cleaners. The question I always have is whether it’s appropriate for use as a general gun cleaner (i.e. safe for contact with wood, polymer, nickel finishes etc). It compels me to try to make sense out of the fine print on the label.
 
Like everything else gun related, there are two different camps.

1 Just knock the powder fouling out, because it's just going to get dirty again.

2 Remove as much fouling as you can, and over time (and a little lapping) it will foul less and be easier to clean next time.

Camp 2 requires a reasonably good bore without pitting and such.
Camp 3 polishes the bore with something like mother's mag polish, flitz, etc.
Then they sneak into camp one or two.
The number one rule of camp 3, is don't talk about camp 3 in camp one or two because they will Stone you for blasphemy.
 
Camp 3 polishes the bore with something like mother's mag polish, flitz, etc.
Then they sneak into camp one or two.
The number one rule of camp 3, is don't talk about camp 3 in camp one or two because they will Stone you for blasphemy.
That is only ok if you pay a barrel maker to do it, otherwise it will ruin the barrel.
 
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clean your rifle, as long as you want after a range session … then clean it again in a week or a month and more fouling will come out. is this camp 4? lol …
 
I've got a question for you guys... I've heard that if you fire a lot of corrosive ammo, you've got to use an ammonia-based solvent to get rid of the residue that absorbs moisture...

Question is, if this is true: does Boretech Eliminator get rid of that corrosive residue that absorbs moisture?

In general, ammonia-based cleaners tend to remove jacket fouling. The fact that they're water-based is what removes corrosive ammo residue, which is water soluble. Use with caution since some old-time ammonia dope recipes required filling the bore and corking it so air can't get at the cleaner.

Gen Julian Hatcher has a whole section on cleaning dopes and fouling in "Hatcher's Notebook." Although out of date in terms of new cartridges and firearms, it's not out of date in terms of the chemistry and physics involved.

I understand "Hatcher's Notebook" is available on line in its entirety, and I think still, even nowadays, about 80% of gun questions can be answered in that book from the late 1940s.

I prefer the printed copy, myself.

Terry, 230RN

Edited to add "and physics"
 
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If you want nylon brushes, Midway, Brownells, and many other web sites selling cleaning supplies have them. Your local gun shop probably has them.
 
You own a mosin that has never ever been fired? Awesome ...

Mine looked like it had never been fired, not a scratch anywhere, wood was perfect, the firing pin gauge was factory new, sling had never been attached (they tend o mar the wood), even the oiling and solvent bottles were dry.

Must have been issued to an officer.

:evil:

Terry, 230RN
 
you may simply be reintroducing fouling back into the bore with the brush. after brushing just push a couple wet patches through to pull out the fouling until they come out mostly clean, then a dry patch or 2. if at this point you put the same brush back into the bore you just used to scrub it with, patches will come out looking dirty again, but you're not necessarily making the bore any cleaner
This ^^^^^

I clean my brass brushes under hot running water periodically or you are just holding fouling on them. The brush is meant to knock crud loose, and the patches to apply a solvent and then remove that solvent and the associated dirt.

Run a solvent soaked patch through the barrel. Then go about cleaning the rest of the gun. Stop half way through and run 2-3 patches through the barrel. Then run one through soaked with penetrating gun oil. Finish cleaning the gun, and then run 4-5 dry patches through to remove excess oil and any last bits of crud.

You will NEVER get all the fouling out of the barrel completely unless you go to such ridiculous lengths, that shooting a gun would be no fun at all.

From start to finish, I go through maybe 10 patches cleaning a barrel if it's really dirty.
 
This thread made me decide to clean a Chilean mauser I've never shot or cleaned. I spent 15 minutes, plus 20 minutes dwell time. Zero black, and just a touch of blue on the first dry.

I did use a bronze brush at the beginning to be a little more aggressive, but switched to nylon to actually see what was coming from the barrel.

I apparently missed the actual questions in the op. Search "nylon bore brush .30" and some options will come up on amazon.
 
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clean your rifle, as long as you want after a range session … then clean it again in a week or a month and more fouling will come out. is this camp 4? lol …
No, this is not a camp at all. It is sitting at home trying to figure out which bore cleaners actually work.
 
Bull, Boretech Eliminator is a water base product, perfect for corrosive primer residue.
This product gets discussed occasionally and poo-pooed a lot by the “old school” on this forum. I am 65 and old school by default but I will tell you that nothing will clean your bore better than Boretech Eliminator - zero odor, no scrubbing - wet patch thru the bore, let sit for 5 minutes, brush thru bore, clean as a whistle - repeat on a heavily copper/ lead washed barrel if necessary.
I have used most of the ammonia-based products over the years, nothing comes close to the efficiency of Eliminator - it amazed me the first couple of times I used it on heavy copper wash and cylinder face leading - sparkling clean. I use nothing else when cleaning now.
I also agree that your need to clean any further than you described is unnecessary - if the barrel is not squeaky clean, nothing will be harmed as long as the corrosive residue is removed on the first couple of passes. I use Boretech and I like squeaky clean bores because I have the “anal” disease - my extreme cleaning requirements are far from necessary for the health of a firearm but that is what I do.


Will have to try some of this Bore Tech Eliminator.
 
Will have to try some of this Bore Tech Eliminator.
It is the best non foaming bore cleaner I have tried, and I've tried more than I care to remember. I have never tried a foaming product, I just can't see not making a mess. I also haven't heard of anyone using foam at a match, but maybe they do?

I never had a problem using brass jags, or wearing out bronze brushes until I started using Eliminator. (Except with Sweets 7.62, but that stuff is too much for me)
 
Hello guys & gals.

So like the title says... I'm totally confused lol.

I've shot LESS THAN 20 ROUNDS through my Mosin Nagant. Granted, it was TulAmmo; but still!

Am I missing something here?

If my process & equipment matter, I'm dipping a brass bore brush in Hoppe's no.9 gun bore cleaner, pulling it thru my bore about 8 times, then running dry patches thru it. I've done this so many times, & they're still coming out completely black.

I've read it could be caused by using a brass brush as opposed to nylon.

1) Could that be true?

2) Anybody have recommendations for nylon cleaning kit brands/where I can them? I'm looking on amazon, & can't seem to find any. They're either brass bore brushes or nylon "non-bore brushes?" Lol (the ones that look like double-sided tooth brushes.

Thank you all in advance for your responses,

Bull.
i don't just push my brass brush thru the bore, i "rotate it" as i insert it, to hopefully get into the rifling a bit more.

i use the Hoppe's Elite foam, and when i put a patch thru it later, i soak a patch with another (any name brand) bore cleaner.

now also, when i insert the patch, i "rotate" that as well..

i have not only cut down on the number of patches that i use, but i also have cut down on the minutes wasted as before on bore cleaning.

then i run an oil patch thru the bore at the end. very clean and very shiny bore(s) on all my hand guns.
 
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It is the best non foaming bore cleaner I have tried, and I've tried more than I care to remember. I have never tried a foaming product, I just can't see not making a mess. I also haven't heard of anyone using foam at a match, but maybe they do?

I never had a problem using brass jags, or wearing out bronze brushes until I started using Eliminator. (Except with Sweets 7.62, but that stuff is too much for me)

I used to use Foaming cleaner in my muzzleloaders.......ugh....what a mess.....switched to Blackhorn 209 which cleans up with regular gun cleaners and no more mess and a lot easier to clean.
 
That is only ok if you pay a barrel maker to do it, otherwise it will ruin the barrel.
If I'm buying a barrel from a maker, I will pay for them to do it.
I have also been told fire lapping ruins a barrel. I've seen the opposite results.
Once again, a good barrel, doesn't need it.
 
Since I shoot a lot of holy black. I got this.

With anything corrosive I always start with a bit of water and dawn. Gets the carbon and salt out. A few passes usually. Flush it out with water and then finish with whatever the "good idea fairy" decides is in fashion today (crisco, veg oil, olive oil, ballistol, RIG, tetra, rem-oil etc).
 
I could see why the the OP would want to completely clean the barrel...one time. After that, nope.

OP, nylon brushes are available almost anywhere, look harder. As others have mentioned there are many solvents better than Hopps for a complete clean.

Anyone else use jags for their patch work? That’s what I use. They work great and I recommend you get a set of those as well.
 
I could see why the the OP would want to completely clean the barrel...one time. After that, nope.

OP, nylon brushes are available almost anywhere, look harder. As others have mentioned there are many solvents better than Hopps for a complete clean.

Anyone else use jags for their patch work? That’s what I use. They work great and I recommend you get a set of those as well.


I bought a boxed set from Midway years ago; covers all the common calibers and then some.... :thumbup:
 
I could see why the the OP would want to completely clean the barrel...one time. After that, nope.

OP, nylon brushes are available almost anywhere, look harder. As others have mentioned there are many solvents better than Hopps for a complete clean.

Anyone else use jags for their patch work? That’s what I use. They work great and I recommend you get a set of those as well.


I've found Fleet Farm in my area to have a pretty good selection of gun cleaning stuff including nylon brushes and toothbrushes.

I don't shoot often or a lot so I'm gonna try the jag with patch only method (no brush) for awhile and see how it goes.


I like the Montana Xtreme jags and they also make aluminum ones so that you don't get false positives for copper.


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Screenshot_20200517-120213_Chrome.jpg Screenshot_20200517-120232_Chrome.jpg
 
Does anyone not use jags?
I've found Fleet Farm in my area to have a pretty good selection of gun cleaning stuff including nylon brushes and toothbrushes.

I don't shoot often or a lot so I'm gonna try the jag with patch only method (no brush) for awhile and see how it goes.


I like the Montana Xtreme jags and they also make aluminum ones so that you don't get false positives for copper.


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I tried a jag that long, and I couldn't find a patch that could cover the whole jag. Ended up with the jag touching the rifling. With an aluminum jag getting embedded with grit, that would be even worse. Maybe there is a secret to using those jags?
 
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