What pistol die should I purchase?

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So I‘ve decided to reload for my new Colt Cobra, I’ve been a faithful RCBS fan, but I’ve read good reviews on the Hornady and Lee dies. Any advice on either one? Does either one have an advantage over RCBS? From what I’ve read, I will not need one shot lube for carbide dies? Is that true? Thanks. (Been reloading for years, but I’ve only reloaded bottleneck rifle cartridges. I have never loaded pistol or straight wall calibers so crimping will be new to me.).
 
I have Lee and RCBS dies for straight wall pistol cartridges and for MY purposes cannot really tell a difference in performance. If you're going to buy new then I'd go with Lee.

As for carbide dies I wouldn't buy anything else. Who wants to have to lube pistol brass?
 
I have Lee and RCBS dies for straight wall pistol cartridges and for MY purposes cannot really tell a difference in performance. If you're going to buy new then I'd go with Lee.

As for carbide dies I wouldn't buy anything else. Who wants to have to lube pistol brass?
RCBS Carbides. I don't like Lee's floating flare setup.
 
You will be OK with RCBS, then.
My (old) RCBS pistol dies are a chore to run on a Dillon because they have less mouth radius and a very flat bottom, very little self alignment. They do fine in a shell holder on a single stage.
 
I have Hornady, RCBS and LEE you get what you pay for, but LEE should be a descent budget die for straight wall pistol mate..

Thewelshm
 
You don’t HAVE to use lube with carbide, but it makes life easier. Lee comes with shell holder.

Lee is my go-to brand. Cheap, reliable, basic. Customer service is good.

RCBS is my second choice. A bit more pricy but real solid customer service. Nicer finish, but I don’t really have a preference in quality, only in price.

Hornady is my want-to-try. I have checked out a coworkers setup and I liked it. Seems a bit overpriced, but they promote their own products and give discounts.

Lyman is the run-like-greased-stink brand. They made good presses but I have 2 sets of Lyman dies and both are tool steel trash.

I reload a few calibers so I have a variety of dies. Others here reload more, and chase different goals in reloading. Last time I figured it up I was reloading 28 calibers with 22 die sets and of those 22, 17 of them are Lee.
 
Redding dies are my first choice with RCBS a close second.

I have had agravations with Lee and Hornady dies.

You can certainly run the straight walled handgun case carbide dies dry but a lubricant really reduces the resizing effort particularly with larger cases such as 44 Mag and 45 Colt.
 
Howdy

A little bit of information about Carbide dies. The sizing/decap die in a Carbide die set as a tungstun carbide disk pressed into the bottom of the die. Tungston carbide is the same material that is used on the tips of saw blade teeth. It is very hard, harder than steel, but it is brittle, not as strong as steel. A hole is drilled straight through the die of the proper diameter to resize the case. This inside diameter of the disk is super smooth, smoother than the inside of a standard, non-carbide die. The reason you don't need case lube with a Carbide die is because the hole is so smooth and highly polished that a brass case can be run thought it and resized without needing lubrication. Standard steel die sets need lubrication because without case lube a case will probably get stuck in the die. It is also true that a little bit of case lube will make it easier to run brass through a carbide die. If you are loading a lot of cases in one sitting, hundreds, it makes it easier to keep pulling the handle without over taxing your arm. I never use case lube with a Carbide die because I don't load huge quantities of ammo. If I was going to load 1000 rounds or so, I would probably use a little bit of case lube.

I use mostly Hornady dies, but that is because I do most of my reloading on a Hornady Progressive press. Hornady dies actually do not come in a carbide version. Instead they have a coating inside the sizing/decap die of Titanium Nitride (TiN). The TiN coating dies serves the same purpose as carbide, and eliminates the need for case lube.

There are some calibers which are not available in carbide dies, such as bottle neck cases like 44-40 or 38-40. Carbide dies are only practical for straight cases such as 45 Colt, 357 Magnum, or 38 Special, to name a few. It is not practical or cost effective to machine a hunk of carbide to the profile needed for a bottle neck case, so case lube must be used with the steel dies available for these cartridges.

Hornady dies have the same standard thread as any other die (except some Dillon dies). But the Hornady system is based around quick caliber change ups using dedicated collets that the dies screw into. Once secured in a Hornady collet, it is a quick twist to pop out one die set and pop in another.

Here is a photo looking down onto one of my Hornady progressive presses. The dies are mounted in their Hornady collets. One station is open and you can see how it is machined to accept the Hornady Collets.

popugCJej.jpg




This is a set of Hornady dies mounted in their collets.

pmEBBB7Kj.jpg




Because almost all dies use the same standard thread, other brands of dies can be mounted into Hornady collets too. This is my set of RCBS 45 Colt carbide dies that I have used to load 45 Colt for many years. They are mounted in their Hornady collets for quick and easy caliber changes.

pmjEl0ZFj.jpg



Don't get me wrong, Hornady dies have the same standard thread as any other dies, and you can use them in any press that uses the standard thread.

If you are going to be using a single stage press, you can use any brand of dies, it does not matter. Yes, you get what you pay for. I have dies from Hornady, RCBS, and Lee. For some reason the Lee dies are the lowest on my totem pole. I only buy them when I can't find the caliber I want in another brand.

Which brings up another point. If you are used to loading bottle neck rifle cartridges on a single stage press, you are probably aware that you don't need to load a whole lot of ammo in one sitting. Most shooters don't go through rifle ammo that quickly. Revolvers are a different story. You will probably find pretty soon that you want to load a lot more revolver ammunition than rifle ammuntion, and you may eventually want to move to a progressive press to crank out more ammo per hour. I taught myself to reload on my old Lyman Spartan single stage press, but the plan was once I had the process under my belt I would graduate to a progressive press. Currently I have 2 Hornady Lock and Load AP presses. I keep one set up for small pistol primers and one set up for large pistol primers. The only time I use my old Lyman Spartan press any more is when I load 45-70 with Black Powder. Loading 40 or 50 rounds is all I need to load in one sitting.
 
When asked about .38Spl, or any straight wall case, I usually recommend Redding dies...specifically their Dual Ring Carbide Sizing die; no other die company offers the advantages of dual resizing rings.

For expanders, especially if you're loading lead, I'd go with Redding, RCBS or Lyman
 
Howdy

A little bit of information about Carbide dies. The sizing/decap die in a Carbide die set as a tungstun carbide disk pressed into the bottom of the die. Tungston carbide is the same material that is used on the tips of saw blade teeth. It is very hard, harder than steel, but it is brittle, not as strong as steel. A hole is drilled straight through the die of the proper diameter to resize the case. This inside diameter of the disk is super smooth, smoother than the inside of a standard, non-carbide die. The reason you don't need case lube with a Carbide die is because the hole is so smooth and highly polished that a brass case can be run thought it and resized without needing lubrication. Standard steel die sets need lubrication because without case lube a case will probably get stuck in the die. It is also true that a little bit of case lube will make it easier to run brass through a carbide die. If you are loading a lot of cases in one sitting, hundreds, it makes it easier to keep pulling the handle without over taxing your arm. I never use case lube with a Carbide die because I don't load huge quantities of ammo. If I was going to load 1000 rounds or so, I would probably use a little bit of case lube.

I use mostly Hornady dies, but that is because I do most of my reloading on a Hornady Progressive press. Hornady dies actually do not come in a carbide version. Instead they have a coating inside the sizing/decap die of Titanium Nitride (TiN). The TiN coating dies serves the same purpose as carbide, and eliminates the need for case lube.

There are some calibers which are not available in carbide dies, such as bottle neck cases like 44-40 or 38-40. Carbide dies are only practical for straight cases such as 45 Colt, 357 Magnum, or 38 Special, to name a few. It is not practical or cost effective to machine a hunk of carbide to the profile needed for a bottle neck case, so case lube must be used with the steel dies available for these cartridges.

Hornady dies have the same standard thread as any other die (except some Dillon dies). But the Hornady system is based around quick caliber change ups using dedicated collets that the dies screw into. Once secured in a Hornady collet, it is a quick twist to pop out one die set and pop in another.

Here is a photo looking down onto one of my Hornady progressive presses. The dies are mounted in their Hornady collets. One station is open and you can see how it is machined to accept the Hornady Collets.

View attachment 916960




This is a set of Hornady dies mounted in their collets.

View attachment 916961




Because almost all dies use the same standard thread, other brands of dies can be mounted into Hornady collets too. This is my set of RCBS 45 Colt carbide dies that I have used to load 45 Colt for many years. They are mounted in their Hornady collets for quick and easy caliber changes.

View attachment 916962



Don't get me wrong, Hornady dies have the same standard thread as any other dies, and you can use them in any press that uses the standard thread.

If you are going to be using a single stage press, you can use any brand of dies, it does not matter. Yes, you get what you pay for. I have dies from Hornady, RCBS, and Lee. For some reason the Lee dies are the lowest on my totem pole. I only buy them when I can't find the caliber I want in another brand.

Which brings up another point. If you are used to loading bottle neck rifle cartridges on a single stage press, you are probably aware that you don't need to load a whole lot of ammo in one sitting. Most shooters don't go through rifle ammo that quickly. Revolvers are a different story. You will probably find pretty soon that you want to load a lot more revolver ammunition than rifle ammuntion, and you may eventually want to move to a progressive press to crank out more ammo per hour. I taught myself to reload on my old Lyman Spartan single stage press, but the plan was once I had the process under my belt I would graduate to a progressive press. Currently I have 2 Hornady Lock and Load AP presses. I keep one set up for small pistol primers and one set up for large pistol primers. The only time I use my old Lyman Spartan press any more is when I load 45-70 with Black Powder. Loading 40 or 50 rounds is all I need to load in one sitting.

Very true. I load about 15 rounds a time for rifle. It may be prudent, if I’m going to purchase more revolvers or reload for my other pistol calibers, to “step up” to a progressive.
 
I have Redding Carbide dies and as some have previously mentioned use a little lube to make it easier to resize your brass.
 
For expanders, especially if you're loading lead, I'd go with Redding, RCBS or Lyman
Agreed.
The expander is the one die out of a kit that most folks don't discuss a lot, or may even assume there is no difference,,,,
I have Hornady and RCBS dies sets as well as Hornady PTX and RCBS 'Powder drop expanders'
I really prefer the RCBS over Hornady offerings in those areas.
(Have to apologize as I have no experience w/other expanders)
 
Hard to beat RCBS for dies, but they all work and will load good ammo. The new ones have copied the M Die expander setup, so has Redding, good stuff.
 
I managed somehow to not only break the decapping pin on my RCBS die but also bent the stem. Ac1 minute call to RCBS had a new stem and 5 pins sent to me for free.This was two weeks ago when everyone had warnings about shipment delays. I got it across the country 2 days after I called. RCBS has the best CS I have ever needed to use.
 
With your choices they are basically eaual with RCBS having better customer service. Just make sure whatever die set you get will load both 357 and 38 SPL. Personally I now buy all Lee dies for straight wall hand gun reloading. I like their carbide ring shape the best for feeding the brass into the die as well as the lower cost overall. As far as the Lee factory crimp die I personally will not spend the money for it so I get the 3 die set. Others swear it is the best thing ever and get the 4 die set. Your choice I guess but you can get the FCD later if you want to.
 
I have both RCBS and Hornady New Dimension die sets. The RCBS set is from the late 70's when I bought my Custom Python. Back then you had to buy the carbide sizing die separate from regular set. I bought the Hornady set when I started loading on a AP. The Hornady sizing die has a larger radius (at the bottom) making it easier to feed in a AP. The set also comes with the drop down alignment sleeve for seating. A lot of people buy this seating die since it makes things easier. This is a great feature since it straightens up the bullet for you. Comparing the 2 sizing dies the Hornady requires less force than the RCBS. The TiNi coating is extremely hard and slick, reducing friction. With that said a shot of OneShot case lube in a bag makes them all about the same. If you going to shoot Lead only you may want to look at the Cowboy set which is designed for lead. Both come with a lifetime warranty so you can't go wrong with either.

Hornady has a rebate going on for 100 free bullets with the purchase of their New Dimension die sets, just pay a small shipping fee.

I load all my handgun ammo loaded on a AP, so easy feeding is a plus. As well as their seating die. A lot of hand loaders add the M-die to their set. It makes seating lead bullets easier. I use a custom seating stem which contacts the shoulder only on SWC. Which also makes sure every thing is in alignment. Now it your using lead bullets with conventional lube, it can and will stick to the seating die's floating sleeve requiring you to clean it ever so often.

Lee will work but I have never cared for them. Redding makes very good high quality gear but they are more expensive. Remember you need to purchase a shell holder with RCBS and Hornady if you don't have one.
 
I like lee or redding dies myself. Hornady and RCBS make good dies but lee is just as good, IMO redding is where you start to notice new features for your dollar albeit quite a lot of dollar. You definitely want carbide and depending on how much adjustment you plan to do on an ongoing basis that's what guided me to the redding after my first set of Lee's. On the other hand, if I'd doubled down on Lee I could afford a second set for 38 spl AND 357 mag instead of having to take advantage of my easy adjustments on the Redding combo die, but I digress.
 
If you plan on loading lead bullets, I would look for a brand with a stepped expander button. Lyman has worked well for me
 
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