RCBS 505 scale won't stay still.

Status
Not open for further replies.

eyeshot

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2020
Messages
313
Location
Tucson, AZ
History- I believe I was a member here a decade ago but I can't remember because it was a decade ago. Anyways, I took my late brother's handle from Graybeard and here I am again. Reloaded 22-250 and .308 in the past and I'm now interested in pistol. One heck of a time to get back into this but it is very therapeutic and I'm getting ready to retire if that tells you anything. I had all of my late brother's reloading equipment shipped to AZ and he was a RCBS fan. So I have everything to reload but the answer to this question.

The RCBS scale that I have is too lite-weight and moves around on my bench if you breathe on it it seems. Any ideas as to weighing this scale down so it isn't so touchy? I though of filling the base with lead but that would cause me to lose paint I'm thinking. I don't want to replace the scale because it is right on accuracy wise and it was my brother's.

So I'm open to opinions. Becoming less clumsy isn't an option at this late date.
 
I replaced my 505 over twenty years ago with a digital scale, a thought for you. No, you cannot damped the 505 without effecting its accuracy. Air currents from air conditioning can move the beam, so fitting a three-sided box over the scale can help.


.
 
I usually use stuff called "stonecast", it's a dense type of plaster of Paris. You can use just plaster of Paris which is fine or you could add some lead shot or old bullets in the mix. Don't fill the base so full that any filler gets into the threads for the zero adjuster foot. Some scales I cast a lead bar and attach it in place with screws.

nAWxQ7Cm.jpg
w3OfIrcm.jpg
 
Are you saying the whole scale moves on your bench or the beam just will not settle down?

If the scale is moving, get a thin rubber pad/sheet to sit the scale on or you can tape some weights on the underneath side of the base to increase the base's weight. There some other possible ways to restrict the movement of the scale.

If you cannot get the beam to settle. Build a wind shield to place around the scale.

It can be as simple as cardboard or as exotic as you want. This will help keep errant breezes from affecting the beam. Professional lab scales have a plexiglass house built around the scale that is closed when taking measurements. But, a three sided wind screen would probably suffice.

Fans and HVAC vents are a frequent culprit in affecting the movement of the beam.

You cannot modify the beam and have it weigh properly.
 
I've been using the same 5-0-5 since about 1979. Spot on accurate as confirmed by checkweights. My scale is very stable. On the right side (towards the pan), the scale rests on its frame. So, no adjustment there. You can check to make sure the frame is even and not bent in any way. And of course, a level, flat surface is needed.

On the left side is the elevation adjustment screw. It's just an aluminum screw with a piece of round plastic around it. You will note the screw has sort of a rounded base where it sets on the surface. The round plastic piece does not support the scale and does not touch the surface but is the means to turn the adjustment screw with the fingers to zero/adjust the elevation.

It's possible that this adjustment screw could be bent on your scale. That could cause some instability. You can check that, too.

RCBS will be glad to speak with you about your issue. Best CS around. Absolutely no BS. They will likely send you another adjustment screw free of charge to change out.

Bayou52
 
Thank you, for the replies. The beam isn't the problem it's the lite-weight scale moving if I bump it taking the tray off or putting it on. There just isn't enough heft to it if you happen to brush it with your hand. Don't say I shouldn't do that because it is just the way it is. o_O I just want to weigh it down for when this happens.

Good ideas for accomplishing this above. Thanks and sorry for not being clear as to my issue.
 
I have a 5-0-5 also, and yes it is very light.

I have mine sitting on a shelf at eye level, and the shelf extends well past the scale. What I do is gently rest my hand on the shelf before placing the pan on the scale. Since I've started doing this, I almost never touch or bump the scale. It also seems that I now set the pan down more gently, helping the scale to settle quicker.

chris
 
The reloading manuals I've read, including Lyman 49 & 50, and others,
suggest you have your scale on a shelf by itself.
This way it doesn't rock from using your press (or get bumped).

I hope you find the perfect answer.
 
The reloading manuals I've read, including Lyman 49 & 50, and others,
suggest you have your scale on a shelf by itself.
This way it doesn't rock from using your press (or get bumped).

I hope you find the perfect answer.

They are all good answers and just what I was looking for.
 
I use a RCBS 10-10 scale all the time. If I had your problem I would drill a small hole down through the base of the scale and with the scale setting level I would put a small diameter screw down through the hole and screw it into a piece of plywood about 18 inches square. The thicker the plywood the more the base would weigh. If one screw was not enough I would use two holes and two screws. The idea is to have it sitting in the same exact position on the loading bench every time you use it so you don't have to keep adjusting the level. Also, as stated above, any outside influence such a heating or air conditioning or wind from an open window can make the pan move up and down. Even a small spider web on the arm will give you problems.
 
get the scale off the bench - mount it on a shelf on a wall at eye level; NO scale should be on a bench with the vibrations inherent in reloading
 
Welcome back OP.
Personally I would not mount the scale to any surface because I would be wanting to adjust its zero periodically. 1066 does what I did. I had some water plug (hydraulic cement) hanging around from a project. I mixed it up and poured some in the base of the scale. Then dropped in a good handful of old lead bullets and pushed them down into the mix. I poured some more over everything and smoothed it over. I used a section of an old plastic pill bottle to protect the adjuster threads on mine. Turned out well for such an easy modification IMHO. You should be able to get a small container of the Elmers brand hydraulc cement in the $5-6 range at the hardware store.
 
get the scale off the bench - mount it on a shelf on a wall at eye level; NO scale should be on a bench with the vibrations inherent in reloading

I did it the other way, I got the press off the bench by building a free standing floor stand for the press. Besides the scale, I did not want the powder measure to be vibrated by the press either.

There are other reasons for the floor stand, but the vibration issue was prime.
 
I cut a piece of 1/4” thick balsa wood to snug fit the bottom then filled with lead shot on my 505. It does not move and is much easier to use.
 
I've used a 505 scale for 42 years with no problems. I really have to question your reloading technique. The scale should be sitting somewhere where nothing else can affect it. If it's on a bench that the press is mounted on then you have a problem.
 
I've used a 505 scale for 42 years with no problems. I really have to question your reloading technique. The scale should be sitting somewhere where nothing else can affect it. If it's on a bench that the press is mounted on then you have a problem.


I would bet that the 505 scale that you have is a heavier than the newer built ones. The one I have is one built in mexico and compared to the one my BIL has that was built in New Jersey there is a noticeable difference. After putting the lead shot in it was more stable and easier to use. Just my experience.
 
My 40 year old 5-10 was made by Ohaus here in the US. At least at one time, Ohaus made EVERY reloading scale for all the major players
 
I would bet that the 505 scale that you have is a heavier than the newer built ones. The one I have is one built in mexico and compared to the one my BIL has that was built in New Jersey there is a noticeable difference. After putting the lead shot in it was more stable and easier to use. Just my experience.
That could be, never thought of that. I was wondering how you could get the scale to move, now I'm wondering what kind of crap they're building.
 
I haven't had a problem with my RCBS scale moving around on me, but I built a small table about 12x24x10" high I put rubber pads (feet) under the corners and use about 20 lbs of ingots on the base. The table is high enough and situated so I don't bump anything when replacing the pan and the table does not move easily on my bench. My bench is built into the wall and the only way it will move is in case a 7.5 earthquake razes the shop/shed. I don't operate my press when I'm weighing anything so that is of no concern.

One of thr reasons I built the table was with my Lyman/Ohaus D5 scale if I bumped the beam, or removed/replaced the pan too fast, the 1/10 gr. poise would jump a notch or two heavier. The firs time that happened, that I noticed was when loading some heavy loads of W296 for my 44 Magnums. The poise jumped .3 heavier and that may not have made a difference but for near max loads and during a work up I like to know exactly the charge. I dumped and recharged 30 rounds...
 
As long as I keep the fan turned off while loading mine doesn't move enough to be an issue.
 
Hot glue, and a big chunk of almost anything heavy. I recently saw a pic of a beam scale with a railroad spike secured in the base to stop it from moving.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top