Rings and top base mount,1 Piece or 2

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marine one

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Hello again, I purchase a Savage 110 Hunter, 223 caliper now I'm looking for rings and top Base
mount, the thing is should I get a two-piece mount or a one-piece mount?
The stock is s/a. what kind of rings should I get?
Any Ideas??
Thanks in advance for all your Help
 
On the matter of mounts it comes down to physical requirements, money, and personal preference. Companies like Burris, Warne, Talley, etc. compete with very different designs that all work well in my opinion but you must first verify they offer a product that fits your rifle.

Money can get you elegant rings or military grade, depending on your style, though these two are not always mutually exclusive. Spending more is more likely than not to net you better quality with the occasional exception. Whether 1-piece or 2 is again related to the above factors; do you like one or the other and will your scope fit properly (eye relief, clearance).
 
Though I like the look of two piece bases better on a bolt action rifle I now buy one piece picatinny bases because it pretty much erases issues encountered when positioning the scope where I want it. I use EGW or Warne bases and Warne rings.

Echoing Skylerbone there are a number of excellent systems out there and IMO the choice is strictly personal preference.

marine one, I don’t want to insult your intelligence but make sure you order the correct Savage 110 bases. There are two: the pre AccuTrigger and AccuTrigger. The rear of the receiver on the pre AccuTrigger receivers is pretty much flat and so the bottom of the rear base is flat . On the AccuTrigger receivers the rear part is round so the bottom of the rear base has a rounded contour. The front and rear bases if using two piece are exactly the same. A number of rifles use the same two piece bases as the Savage 10/110 Series. Off the top of my head some of them are: Axis, Ruger American and Remington 783. There may be more.

AccuTrigger: https://warnescopemounts.com/product/m902902m/

Pre AccuTrigger: https://warnescopemounts.com/product/m902936m/
 
In my experience; probably mounted 100 sets of optics, I always go right to EGW or some other Picatinny Rail base. Reason; as stated above, you will be able to place your optic so you get the correct eye relief. I find that using the two piece bases do not usually allow for proper eye relief, depending on the optic.

I don't care about what it looks like. I care about function.
 
Never been a problem for me with Remington 700 and Weatherby Vanguard. Don’t know for sure about a Savage 10/110 but seriously doubt it cuz we would have read about it.
 
I personally went with two piece Warne bases for my Savage 10 and Weatherby Vanguard. The Savage it was more for looks (since it has a detachable magazine and I won't be top loading), the Weatherby it was for the extra space in top loading (hinged internal magazine). I'm sure a 1 piece wouldn't be an issue with the Weatherby, but I have fat hands and I'll take any help I can get for things involving fine manual dexterity.

That being said, I don't think you can go wrong either way. One big perk with the 1 piece mount is it allows much greater flexibility in scope mounting as far as tube length, eye relief, etc.. I may actually switch my Savage to a 1 piece if I end up shooting it more often, but right now it's not a priority.

The other thing you might consider is one of the DNZ Game Reaper mounts. There's no rail, the mount attaches to where the reciever is drilled and tapped for bases.
 
I want to thank all the above for there advice and time helping me in my endeavors to put together this rifle.

THANKS.
 
I'm conflicted on this. Traditionally I've liked 2 piece and have them on all of my traditional hunting rifles. It does make loading/unloading easier. But I also have several rifles such as Tikka and Ruger Americans with a closed top. I have rails on those and it just hasn't been an issue. The rails do make it a lot easier to get the scope adjusted for proper eye relief.
 
Varmint Al (google him) has a succinct explanation. I lifted this from his website (giving credit where credit is due):

ONE OR TWO PIECE SCOPE BASE.... The question of one piece or two piece scope base is a tricky question. There are a number of other factors that need to be considered to optimize the situation. Let's assume that that both bases fit the action reasonably well. First, the action is usually 4140 steel or equivalent with a Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (CTE) of 6.2E-6 in/(in-°F). One exception I know of is the Stolle Panda action which is aluminum. Aluminum 6061-T6 has a CTE of 13.1E-6 or more than twice that of steel. The difference in thermal expansion is the major problem with a one piece aluminum base on a steel action. When the base is screwed onto the action at say 72 °F and assuming it fits well, it is stress free in the axial direction. If the assembly is then heated to 120 °F (which is possible in full sun), the differential in expansion between the base and action for a 5 inch span is:

dL=L * da * dT,

where dL is the length difference (in), L is the span length (5 in), da is the difference in CTE's between steel and aluminum (6.9E-6 in/(in-°F)), and dT is (48 °F) the temperature change.

Running the numbers, the 5 inch section of a free base would lengthen about 0.00166 inch more than the action would. The cross-section area of the B-Square base on my Savage 12BVSS is approximately 0.12 sq-in and force required to compress the 5 inch section of the base 0.00166 inch is,

Force = K * dL = 398 lb

Where the spring constant, K = Area * Elastic-Modulus / Length

Area = .12 sq-inch

Elastic-Modulus = 10E6 lb/sq-inch

L = 5 inch

K = 240,000 lb/inch and the force required to shorten the base 0.00166 inch is 398 lb. This is a lot of force! The stress in the aluminum base is 3,300 psi which is well below the yield stress.

ASSUMING THE ACTION IS RIGID.... This assumes that the much larger steel action is rigid and is a reasonable assumption because the action is much larger than the base. Taking into account the flexibility of the action involves a statically indeterminate problem. This would require very sophisticated Finite Element Analysis including the geometry of each action and one piece base to determine the deformations of both. Now assume that your rifle scope is made of aluminum. If you use a two piece base, then a 0.00166 inch displacement goes directly into the scope tube. If the section area of the scope tube is half that of the base, then the force would be half or 199 lb. But in either event you are going to shorten the center of the scope. Using an aluminum one piece base, resists some of the load and lowers the load transmitted to the scope. I think you would change the point of impact more by stressing the scope than stressing the action, all else being equal.

But, if you have a scope with a steel tube, and use a two piece base, then the mounted scope goes through temperature swings, matching the action's length change, without being stressed. This is the best of all worlds. It is also similar with an aluminum Stolle Panda action and an aluminum scope.

SUMMARY.... So, in summary, I would suggest:

Steel action, aluminum scope: use a one piece aluminum scope base.

Steel action, steel scope: use a two piece steel or aluminum scope bases.


FWIW!
 
We really can’t pretend the scope always or even frequently experiences the same temperature as the action.
 
I like Talley and Warne but Warne are much more in my price range now. I like vertical mounnts and do not like Picatanny rails on bolt actions.

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On the matter of mounts it comes down to physical requirements, money, and personal preference. Companies like Burris, Warne, Talley, etc. compete with very different designs that all work well in my opinion but you must first verify they offer a product that fits your rifle.
True, and what army_eod says is worth considering also. The Talleys worked fine for me re eye relief, but there was very little room to move if they hadn't. (This is why I checked with the Weaver set that came with it first. ) It has to work first.
 
True, and what army_eod says is worth considering also. The Talleys worked fine for me re eye relief, but there was very little room to move if they hadn't. (This is why I checked with the Weaver set that came with it first. ) It has to work first.


Yes, having enough room for scope adjustment during install and eye relief is very important.

Using regular mounts would not have worked here.

I do not like one piece rail mounts because they can sometimes affect loading and don't look as good IMHO.

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In my experience; probably mounted 100 sets of optics, I always go right to EGW or some other Picatinny Rail base. Reason; as stated above, you will be able to place your optic so you get the correct eye relief. I find that using the two piece bases do not usually allow for proper eye relief, depending on the optic.

I don't care about what it looks like. I care about function.
However it should be noted that some rails impact the ability to top load quickly.
 
IF it was my gun....Leupold rings and 1 piece base with rear windage adjustment. Will allow you to bore sight windage w/o adjusting the scope.

Probably more important than your selection of rings and bases is whose going to mount this scope to the gun?
 
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I've used two piece steel mounts on all (but one) bolt action rifles for many years to give me better access to the action for loading, clearing malfunctions and sometimes to grab empties as they're ejected. Two piece mounts will save a couple ounces over their one piece counterparts.

You just gotta decide what's important to you and go with it.
 
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