1911 hammer bite, and other 1911 questions

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I meant to add to the above that I do not get hammer bit with my RIA 1911 GI model. The sights were another matter as I couldn't see them well. I'm old what can I say. Dawson rear and fiber optic front sight and now I love it.
 
I've had good luck with my Sprinfield Defender 1911. Bare bones GI like model with slightly improved fixed white dot sights. I think mine was about $425 or so last year.

Tossed on some rubber grip panels to make it look a little more like an old school 1911 and to make it more knock around friendly.
 
Wait...what? You want one because America but you want an import???
I'll probably get hammered (no pun intended) for this, but personally I'd spend the few extra $ and get a Kimber./QUOTE]

I know, I know. I'd love an American made 1911. Especially a full size Ruger SR1911. But I don't want to put too much money into it. There are other things I want to buy.

I'm really not trying to be a wise guy here, but no, "most people" do not say that. I'd never heard it before, and I've been around 1911s a long, long time. Let alone the fact that I'd heard people talk about 1911s for years before I ever owned one of my own. I simply said most people do not say "to completely mitigate that, you most have a Smith install an extended upturned beaver tail and skeleton hammer.":uhoh:

Not a wise guy at all! I didn't know that! Like I said, I am not super familiar with the 1911. I mean, I've shot them, but I don't know a whole lot about them, and I've never owned one.
 
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Wait...what? You want one because America but you want an import???
I'll probably get hammered (no pun intended) for this, but personally I'd spend the few extra $ and get a Kimber. You can get their basic model for around $550 and no worries about hammer bite. Unless you're set on the GI style...
Wilson mags are a must AFAIC.

If not a Kimber then a GI model 1911 R1 from Remington goes for right about $600 most places.
I was gonna get one until I found this gently used 'carry' model at my lgs for $675 OTD.
 
I've been hearing a lot about hammer bite.
My question is this: could one not file down the rear of the hammer?
Hammer bite is no fun. Yes, you can lop off the hammer spur. See the pictures below for examples. This side-by-side comparison of a standard hammer and a bobbed hammer was done by Lou Biondo of Business End Customs. Bobbing a hammer like this will cause no functioning problems but it will result in less material for your thumb to grab onto, obviously.

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Much of hammer bite depends on the design of the hammer itself and the grip safety. If you have a long hammer spur like what was on the 1911 (not A1) combined with a bobtail, you might get bit. But a spurred or rounded hammer on a 1911 with a beavertail, virtually unheard of. The beavertail grip (it has a slight swirl upward) will guide your hand below where the hammer will come down as 1911 cycles. I have a 1911 with a bobtail/spurred hammer and just finished another with spurred hammer/beavertail. No bites on either.
 
Much of hammer bite depends on the design of the hammer itself and the grip safety. If you have a long hammer spur like what was on the 1911 (not A1) combined with a bobtail, you might get bit. But a spurred or rounded hammer on a 1911 with a beavertail, virtually unheard of. The beavertail grip (it has a slight swirl upward) will guide your hand below where the hammer will come down as 1911 cycles. I have a 1911 with a bobtail/spurred hammer and just finished another with spurred hammer/beavertail. No bites on either.
I think you may be confusing some terminology.

A "bobtail" is a modification to the bottom of the mainspring housing. It should not have any affect on hammer bite.

https://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2018/1/31/the-benefits-of-a-bobtail-1911/

Perhaps you are looking for a different part with a different term?
 
Clearly he meant beavertail, as evidenced with the penultimate sentence.

Edit: I stand corrected, he was indeed using the wrong term. Mea Culpa
 
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A "bobtail" is a modification to the bottom of the mainspring housing. It should not have any affect on hammer bite.

I always considered bobtail was the non extended portion of the grip safety, below where the hammer goes when cocked, as opposed to the upswept beavertail. If there is a different name for it I am unaware. I am relatively new to 1911s as well. As for the angling of the MSH, I always saw that referred to as a carry cut or "fastback" instead of bobtail.
 
I always considered bobtail was the non extended portion of the grip safety, below where the hammer goes when cocked, as opposed to the upswept beavertail. If there is a different name for it I am unaware.
I'm sorry, I 'm still not sure what part you are talking about.

As far as 1911 grip safeties go, there is the GI grip safety and beavertail grip safeties as you can see in this article ( https://hipowersandhandguns.com/Best 1911 grip safety.htm ), and there are also a couple of Colt specific designs, the "Rat-tail" (which was a modified GI grip safety that allowed the use of the Commander hammer) and the "Ducktail" or "Duckbill" grip safety that was basically a downward sloped beavertail.
 
I will not own a 1911 without a beavertail; I had non-beavertail 1911's and did not like.
Beavertail grip safety for me:
Pic2.JPG
 
I'm a big dude, 6'2" and 300lbs, I have big meaty hands, I'm planning on getting hammer bite, but hoping not too.

I've only ever shot 1911s with beaver tails.
 
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I'm about your size and maybe 75 lbs lighter. Been palming basketballs since I was 15 and xxl gloves are too small. I can focus and grip lower but sometime during a string, my grip will change and the scarlet letter I will appear, sometimes without bleeding. Beavertail or a slightly bobbed spur cures it for me.
 
Is hammer bite as uncomfortable as slide bite? I've never had an issue with any of the 1911's I've owned or currently own. If I had, it would have only been once and the problem would be rectified in one way or another. Too many options out there to shoot something that's uncomfortable, sausage fingers or not.
 
I always considered bobtail was the non extended portion of the grip safety, below where the hammer goes when cocked, as opposed to the upswept beavertail. If there is a different name for it I am unaware. I am relatively new to 1911s as well. As for the angling of the MSH, I always saw that referred to as a carry cut or "fastback" instead of bobtail.

Yeah, the bobtail or bobtail cut refers to the angled cut on the MSH.

I believe Ed Brown coined the term? I do know one of the angles are considered an Ed Brown Bobtail. Further, guns like the Dan Wesson VBOB and CBob were called this because of the bobtail or bobbed MSH.

I'm not sure what part you are referring to, but I'm no 1911 guru, just a user.
 
One of my 1911s gets me a good 10% of the time (XXL glove size), can you guess which one? I converted the middle one, a Colt XSE from duckbill to beaver tail right off the bat. Beyond hammerbite, the other benefit of a beaver tail grip safety is in allowing a higher grip, ditto with the high grip modification to the front strap (visible on the stainless S&W above the front strap checkering).

Magazine wise I’ve had no trouble with Checkmate, ACT, Metalform, Wilson 47s, and ETMs though I do swap for steel base plates on the Wilsons.

If I were buying another 1911 today with value being the priority, my choice would be the Springfield RO Elite.


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I'll probably just bob the hammer spur a tad if it ends up being a problem. You guys sure that won't cause any light primer strikes or other issues?

I mean, I see the pics of the 1911s with completely bobbed hammers, but do those have heavier springs or differently weighed hammers especially made to be bobbed?

Also, are full length guide rods for the recoul spring a thing in 1911s?

Also, also, I have been browsing 1911 mags, and some say "ready for the bumper of your choice", what does that mean? Do you need bumpers?

Also, I've been eyeing the Kimber mags, as they're only about $15. Some of those Wilson Combat mags are like $50! A huge benefit for getting a 1911 I thought was going to be cheaper mags!

Whatever I get a Glock 19, 17, 22, or 23 (the latter two converted to 9mm), I will enjoy the Magpul mags. I am sick of spending $45 per mag for my other pistols...
 
Bumpers are the plastic protrusions that attach via screw to the bottom of the mag, to easier "bump" it into place when loading.
I haven't had much luck with Kimber mags. My Sig 1911's do just fine with their factory mags but I don't know who actually makes them.
eBay is a good place for replacement mags...
As far as the hammer being too light after bobbing it, I haven't heard anyone complain of this. You're really only talking about shortening it 1/4" or so at it's thinnest point.
 
I can’t answer all of your questions, but:

Also, are full length guide rods for the recoul spring a thing in 1911s?

Yep. There are variations in the guide rod/recoil spring assembly on different guns including full length.

Also, also, I have been browsing 1911 mags, and some say "ready for the bumper of your choice", what does that mean? Do you need bumpers?
If you drop your mags on reloads, the bumper protects it somewhat, and it makes loading easier. It’s optional and many people have no need for them.
 
Also, I've been eyeing the Kimber mags, as they're only about $15. Some of those Wilson Combat mags are like $50! A huge benefit for getting a 1911 I thought was going to be cheaper mags!
1911 mags are typically in the $20ish - $30ish range. If you are buying them for less than $20, there is generally a reason they cost less. If you are paying $50 for a 1911 mag, you are buying some particular "feature" that you prefer.

Another point, the 1911 was designed around a 7 round full size mag. Today, 7 round full size mags are not as common as 8 round full size mags. Not everybody does a good job of designing their 8 rounders.
 
I just don’t understand why fellas buy those cheap a$& 1911 pistols when there are good ones available for very reasonable prices.

Remington R-1 GI are 80 series btw.
I had to do a lot of work on mine BUT it shoots very well .

Springfield GI models are 70 series and a great place to start a build.
Wilson mags are top notch IMO
Hammer bite is a non issue on a 1911
not so much on a Browning Hi Power, those things will nail ya good!!!
 
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