Boresighter question

deputy bruce said:

Has anyone hsd trouble with your bore sighter not working with bore sighting an ar rifle? seem like bore sighter needs to to be higher.

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Doesn't need to be higher, you adjust for the offset (Bore to sights) with your TGT. Use 2 points, one for your aim point and the other for where the laser dot will hit. You can get "fancy" and compute how much the difference should be at zero at "X" distance, but I usually just shoot the thing. Similar to this:

You may need a tall spud for your collimator. Sweaney / Alley has / had their M16 for 223 rounds. I did not see it on their website, anymore. It may be worth a call.

https://alleysupply.com/

Brownells has: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...hter-spuds/collimator-elevator-prod22869.aspx

Arbor bore sighters do not work well with AR’s unless the flash hider is removed and there is an extension to increase the height of the collimator from the arbor. I’ve seen a bore sighter with an extension once a long time ago but don’t remember when or where.

For AR’s I use a laser bore sighter, the Wheeler with the green laser, green is much easier to see in daylight than red. At the time I was scope mounting and bore sighting rifles every week so the cost of the laser sight was well justified(over $100.00). Now that I’m back to just doing my rifles, family and friends I don’t know that I’d spend the money.

AR’s are pretty easy to bore sight the old fashioned way, especially since you can use just the upper to bore sight.

I've never found that any of the bore sight tools will save me a single minute of my time nor a single round of ammo getting my rifles zeroed. With any type of rifle. Use a target backer so big that you cannot miss and place it at 50 yards. Walmart sells poster board for about 70 cents each, cut up an old cardboard box, use newspaper etc. Mark an aiming point in the center and fire one shot.

Find the bullet hole, measure the vertical and horizontal distance from the aiming point then twist scope adjustment dials the appropriate number of clicks. Shot #2 will be zeroed at 50 yards. It doesn't matter if your 1st shot is 2 inches or 2 feet from the aiming point as long as you get a bullet hole in paper.

If you want to zero at 100 you'll be close enough at this point to be on a standard target at 100 with the 1st shot. Simply repeat. Fire one shot, measure distance from aiming point, adjust scope the appropriate number of clicks and shot #2 will be zeroed at 100 yards. Repeat for as far as you want zero the rifle.

Remove the BCG and set the upper on something somewhat stable, look down the bore at a distant object centered in the bore. Now look through optic and move crosshairs to center of object too.

That works like a bore sighting tool, to get you on paper. Then you get it right on actually shooting.

I have used many bore sighters over the years. I started with the standard collimator which works on guns without a flash hider that have the scope at the right height. I then picked up a Leupold magnetic bore sighter which works on a wider variety of rifles due to it being magnetic. The third type I have is a Laserlyte in-bore laser bore sighter. That one works on just about everything and does what I need it to do. I keep it in my pack during hunting season just in case I whack my rifle barrel accidentally. I can quickly verify that it is in the neighborhood. The fourth type of bore sighter I have is the Absolute Zero made by Axeon . It uses two lasers and a grid target. You attach the bore sighter to the scope, line up the two lasers on the designated squares, shoot one round on target, move the crosshairs to the bullet impact and you are done. Haven't used it yet but I will this summer in preparation for deer hunting season.

deputy bruce said:

Has anyone hsd trouble with your bore sighter not working with bore sighting a 6.5 Creedmoore AR style rifle? Seem like bore sighter needs to to be higher.

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I'd separate the upper from the lower. Look though the barrel at a target 50 yards away and adjust the scope appropriately. Typically this works well enough to be "on paper" at 50 yards and you can adjust from there. I've done this my past couple scopes/rifles and it actually worked better than when I used any bore sighting tool.

-Jeff

Manually boresight. Pick out your target (through your bore) at 100 yds, dial in your crosshairs to the aimpoint. Once finished, dial up two MOA or equivalent MRAD and you are very close on paper. This from the book "Ultimate Sniper." It works.

you don't need no stinking boresighting tools. Mine never work worth a darn.

army_eod said:

you don't need no stinking boresighting tools. Mine never work worth a darn.

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Mine work very well. I’ll also state they are not needed, even with say, a sem-automatic .22 rifle. As has been alluded to all you need is a big enough piece of paper.

My bore sighting tools do make the job much faster and that was important when I was mounting scopes for money.

Second to cdb1. I can bore sight fine with bolts removed, but it’s much easier with an optical boresighter. I picked up a Bushnell set that covers all calibers for 70% off at an outlet store and love it. On a paper plate or target every time first time.

The cartridge type lasers are good so long as they are concentric. Turn on, place in chamber, close bolt, and adjust crosshairs or irons to the laser dot on a wall 50 yards away. Definitely on paper, usually within a couple inches at 100 first shot. Downside is batteries don't last long, need dim light to see the laser dot, and gets expensive having one for each cartridge. Great tool to keep in hunting pack to confirm scope zero when traveling. Never been a giant fan of the universal collimeters. They don't play nice with muzzle devices or large variations in sight heights, nor do they tend to be super close to zero. Can do just as well looking down the barrel and starting zero shots on large sheet of paper at shorter range.