Leading Problem CZ Shadow 2

I usually break in my barrels with several hundred rounds of jacketed/plated bullets loaded to around factory target/white box level of velocity to "burnish" the metal surface before shooting lead/coated lead bullets (Yeah, call me old school).

Exception is surface hardened coated barrels like Glock, M&P etc.

And in my various KKM, Lone Wolf, Sig 1911 barrels, I do not get leading with 12-18 BHN lubed lead bullets or Hi-Tek coated bullets.

Since coated lead bullets will lead if the coating is damaged in any way, exercise care when seating and taper crimping by using sufficient amount of flare. For .356" sized coated bullets, I use .378" taper crimp so as to not cut through the coating.

roc1 said:

Using Titegroup powder 122-125 gr bullets 3.6-3.9 grains powder.

What loads do y’all use that won’t do this? Acme Green bullets worst.

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I like Titegroup for 9mm and use faster powders all the way to Red Dot/Promo and Bullseye and do not get leading in my barrels.

You are where you should be powder charge wise with Titegroup so I would look at other reloading variables to eliminate leading.

And of course, you need to remove all leading before shooting again and I prefer to use copper scrubbing strands like Chore Boy (Test strands with magnets to make sure they are not copper plated steel) around old bore brush and all the leading is removed after a few passes.

roc1 said:

What gets lead out Lewis lead removal kit was to tight

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Take a brush or mop (of the corresponding caliber) & wrap it with a single strand from a Chorboy.

MAKE SURE THE CHORBOY OR FACSIMILE IS SOLID COPPER.
Some brands use copper coated steel.
You don't want steel in your barrel.

Slug your bore. Commercial cast bullets for the 9mm could be sized too small and are normally way to hard as is the lube.

To remove lead from a bore I use a jag and a brass pipe screen. Or a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide.

If using the dip only leave the barrel soaking for about 60 seconds. Use a jag and a patch. If you're getting tons of black on the patch there's still lead in the barrel. Be advised that the dip will contain a soluble form of lead that you should be very careful with.

roc1 said:

Thanks do you wash barrel in water to neutralize then dry and oil real well afterwards?
Submerge barrel completely?
I’m using .356 bullets and checked some no shaving of bullets light crimp only remove taper bell
Thanks
Roc1

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I have a old pill bottle that I keep the dip in. I place the barrel in that bottle. It's large enough that a 5" barrel can sit in it and leave the chamber end outside the bottle.

I rinse the barrel with tap water then dry and lube normally.

Probably need to go to a .357" or 358" diameter bullet.

Just bigger than what will drop through. Make sure to lube your balls.

roc1 said:

What size balls do you need for slugging barrel?

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You could squish a bullet with vise to measure the groove to groove diameter of the barrel

• Use a vise/hammer to squeeze a lead RN bullet to slightly larger diameter than barrel's bore

• Tap the bullet partially into the barrel

• Tap out the bullet with brass/aluminum rod (Or 1/4" socket extension wrapped with paper towel/plastic to protect the barrel/rifling)

• Measure high spot-to-high spot for groove-to-groove diameter of the barrel

roc1 said:

Thanks I might try slugging barrel. What size balls do you need for slugging barrel?
Thanks
Roc1

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A 00 ball from a shotgun should be perfect. Make sure it's not steel.

roc1 said:

The solution cleaned barrel 95% or better I’d say. It didn’t matter barrel wasn’t stainless I guess? I dried it and oiled it with a patch think it’s fine.
Thanks again
Roc1

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Doesn't matter that it's stainless.

The dip should remove all the lead. I have had in the past to do a couple of passes through the dip. When the black sludge quits coming out on the patch all the lead is gone.