ASM wedge?

VTI may have one, not that tough to make either.

Deer Creek Products, Waldron, Indiana has it available.

ASM 1851 parts--->>> http://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/c19/1851_Colt_ASM_Revolver_Parts.html

Wedge part --->>> http://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/p1215/1851_Colt_ASM_Wedge_-_616310.html

They seem to have more ASM parts in stock than anyone else.
I wonder if the nipples are also stuck?

TWC said:

Any links to ASM history,etc. would be appriciated.

Click to expand...

Here's a quick overview: --->>> https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/armi-san-marco-history-needed.24835/

I bought a unknown wedge for my ASM walker. It was fine but needed a bit more width. I welded a bead on one side we the trimmed it to fit. Works fine.

Won't do a bit of good until you get the "short arbor" problem fixed.

Mike

I am assuming it is an 1860 Army .44 you have (and not a Walker or Dragoon).

I have an ASM 1860 Army (BD/1994) and wanted a full-fluted cylinder for it. ASM did make quite a few in the1990's so it's not like I was trying to create a Frankengun (as I have been known to do with Pietta 1851 Navy "type" revolvers!). After taking many measurements of the original ASM engraved cylinder and conferring with folks who own Pietta and Uberti 1860 cylinders (Pietta is too long), I took a chance on a new (2019) $100 Uberti cylinder from Taylor's. When it arrived I compared them side-by-side: there were only two differences in dimensions and they were fairly miniscule (.001"-.003"). Barrel cylinder gap is .003". It functions well with no modification. This is a CNC cylinder from one manufacturer and a non-CNC revolver from another manufacturer.

Maybe I just got lucky.



In the 1990's there was some sort of familial relationship between ASM and Uberti, having to do with an uncle and a niece, IIRC. I think I would try an Uberti wedge rather than a Pietta wedge.

Goon is correct about the arbor fit, but my ASM only required 2 .002" shim washers to correct this. Please remember that this revolver (and yours) are non-CNC machined revolvers. Even up until Pietta went to CNC machining ~2000, they still subcontracted certain parts from smaller Northern Italian manufacturers, so tolerances can really be all over the map.

VTI has some parts (but very few these days) and also Deer Creek. Good luck with your "resurrected" revolver!

Regards,

Jim

Pre 2000, CVA and EMF Colt Clone imports were made by Armi San Marco and their wedges should fit if you find one on Ebay.

arcticap said:

Here's a quick overview: --->>> https://www.firearmstalk.com/threads/armi-san-marco-history-needed.24835/

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link (which I saved). The OP, bprevolver, is Dr. Jim L. Davis (Claremore OK), who passed last September. He was the founder of the Replica Percussion Revolver Collector Association (RPRCA). The links he supplied in his 2010 post point to tripod.com. I have tried in the recent past to access this site, but it is no longer maintained. I believe if you click on any of the subjects after accessing tripod.com you may find that you will be inundated with tripod sign-up BS and your browser may lock up. There is nothing new there, and it has been that way since at least 2016.

There is a guy named Dennis Norton (on this forum as Roy L Oak, who is also on a FB BP forum) who is intent upon acquiring access to Davis' voluminous files through Davis' nephew. If successful, Dennis would like to publish a book using Davis' files as Davis had intended before he passed. I have not heard from him in a few months so I don't know what his progress has been.

Dr. Davis, in my mind, was a phenomenal guy who collected all manner of reproduction C&B revolvers and wanted to let everyone know about manufacturers, importers, distributors, and so on. I believe many of his obscure notes were in his head and not available as printed material.

ASM has been always known to have produced revolvers that were very historically correct, as opposed to Pietta, Uberti, Pedersoli, Gregorelli & Uberti, Armi San Paolo, Rigarmy, and others. Several years ago I purchased a replica Colt 1848 Pocket .31 5-shot 6" barrel with load lever (XIX/1963) distributed by Replica Arms El Paso Texas. It has the correct 1848 features: short frame, short forcing cone, small V-notch load aperture on the barrel lug, and squareback trigger guard (the ASM "teller" is the shallow shoulders at the rear of the TG on the early model revolvers), as opposed to the 1849 Pocket .31. Italian proof marks. I put out a few feelers about it and Davis' response was that it was an ASM first-year of manufacture, regardless that it had no ASM markings. Davis was that well informed.



Here is another later ASM that belongs to a friend who is a forum member on a French BP revolver site. The recoil shield cutouts, the load aperture notch, and the gripframe are different. The shoulders on the rear of the TG and the shape of the load lever at the rammer pivot are definitely ASM.



Most, if not all, of his collection was sold to October Country last year, and OC happily put them up for sale at fire-sale prices, not knowing what gems they had. There were many ASM Walkers, Dragoons, Armies, and Navies that were scooped up at prices offered. I bought two lots before they got away, and they were going like all-you-can-eat hotcakes. That is where I scored my Pietta J.H. Dance &Brothers .36 (I had been on a quest for one for at least 3 years prior).

Not to hijack this ASM thread: if interested, go here:

https://blackpowdersmoke.com/revolvers/index.php/topic,560.0.html

Regards,

Jim

If it doesn't come off, there's a product named Evaporust that is a harmless rust remover that's nothing short of amazing.
One member used it to loosen up an antique Remingtion cylinder from its base pin.
Other members used it on guns that were rust welded too.
It will remove the bluing along with the rust, but it works as advertised.
Read the threads below for more info.

whughett posted: "The cylinder of the 1858 Remington in another thread was rust welded to the base pin. I locked the frame in a vice and tried turning the cylinder with a pipe wrench. When it first moved a tiny bit, I stopped, returned the piece to the Evapo-rust bath and tried again the next day. At length it started moving freely and I was able to pull the base pin." --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/completely-rusted-1851-colt-copy.850808/#post-11132573

See how well it worked here. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/1858-remington-genuine-or-repro.850906/#post-11132690