80% build nearing possibility

I used an 80% Arms lower when I completed my .308 AR. I also used their Gen2 jig and a laminate router that made it super easy. This was part of a program that I had previously paid for and most definitely wouldn’t have bought a $200+ jig myself when their are stripped lowers out there. Not sure what you are using for a jig, but this would be a major deciding factor for me.

If you’re looking for billet, 80% Arms seems to have them in stock, but I wouldn’t say they’re economically priced, starting at $100 and $70 for a blem. I’ve seen the Anderson forgings in the white for ~$40 in the past but dont see any in stock now.

EDIT: Brownells has a Matrix Arms forging as of this post. $51

Anodized 80% forged lowers were available at gun shows for as low as $55 before the coronavirus hit. Note that 100% lowers were cheaper.

AMT has both Forged & Billet 80% lowers. They are 7075-T6 in hard coat or raw, and have the best prices I’ve come across. I’ve machined many of these now. In fact, the AMT Billet Lowers are the only Lowers I use anymore. For over two years.

I think right now there is more demand on 80% lowers than finished bare receivers.

I used 80% Arms. The one that I used had molded trigger guard, beveled magwell and was anodized. It was $ 90 prior to the virus. My buddy already had the jig and tools. Taught me how to do my two. He built four now with this lower.

Very cool. I’ve performed 4 as well. All are AMT. I’ve never purchased a 100% complete AR since I started with them in 2005. Have only built (assembled) my own. I started machining 80% lowers in 2017, and now I’ll never buy another 100%.

Even my carry gun is an 80% build.

Grayrock said:

Mine is in the raw. Was thinking of the Alumahyde (sp?) from Brownells (or is it Midway?). Any other recommendations for outer coating your lower?

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Ceracoat will work, been wondering about alumahyde myself... BTW, Daytona Tactical has 80% lowers for about 55 bucks as of yesterday...

As far as rattle can goes, Alumahyde actually works really well. I’ve seen camo jobs on guns that look professionally sprayed. And it’s pretty tough stuff. Certainly not a can of Rustolium. But I’ll just add, if you want another fun project.... doing hardcast Anodizing isn’t difficult. It’s actually really easy. And doesn’t even cost much.

Any suggestions for economically priced lowers?

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I have done some almost 100% builds, building every part of the rifle from billet, tubing, spring wire etc but the reason I haven’t done and AR’s is because I can get a finished one ready to go for cheaper than an 80% one.

Grayrock said:

Any links for good info on that?

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Here is a basic search of vids. You can also search Google for print.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=type+iii+anodizing

When you see the words “Type III” used in Anodizing, it’s simply the same basic process but at cold temps. Otherwise it’s Type II(room temp)...which honestly is just fine. So unless you do it in the winter(around 30F degrees). My method is Sulfuric acid bath(approx 200grams per liter), or 1:5 ratio of PURE Acid & distilled water. If you can use battery acid and cut it a bit with distilled, as it’s normally around 36-37%. The AR Lower or part in question becomes the Anode(positive), and anything metal can be the Cathode(negative). Most people use lead because it’s good forever however, a piece of 6063 Aluminum works best. Use cold water and insert the bucket in a cooler full of ice(or outside in the winter). It needs to be BELOW 70f degrees, but closer to 30f is best. Also you see many people using Lye to etch clean the part. But honestly, it just needs to be REALLY, REALLY clean! Boil it in simple green.....spray it with brake clean, rinse it in distilled water. And DONT TOUCH IT!

A battery charger works fine, although a power supply is better. Don’t go above 2Amps. 1.5 Amps is ideal. Like everything else, each individual finds their own technique.