what tape for bedding a rifle

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trapperjohn

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I am going to glass bed a CZ 550. I have only ever done it once and that was almost 20 years ago, I know I need to tape the front, bottom and sides of the recoil lug. Does it have to be electrical tape or will masking tape work as well?
 
Is the stock oiled or varnished? I’ve found very few tapes stick to an oiled stock well, and even so the tape draws out the oil for some reason leaving a lighter area. Being a CZ550 I’ll assume it’s varnish, unless some high end stock option.

I use blue painters tape. There is a kind that costs more than standard blue tape, but is said to leave a more crisp line and seal better
 
I've been using the blue masking tape for the past several jobs and it worked great.
 
I don’t think the type of tape matters, but also use blue painter’s tape...be certain it sticks to the recoil lug (degrease if necessary) and once it is applied, coat with release agent (i use clear shoe polish or spray-on cooking spray...or both).
 
I use a couple layers of masking tape with a release agent on the front and sides of the lug and blue painter's tape on the stock. I have bedded a lot of rifles over the years and can not remember ever using electrical tape. Electrical tape has too much stretch in it for me but I know other guys that swear by it.
 
two layers of blue masking will give you a little more clearance than one layer of electrical.
 
I've bedded the lug and a bit of barrel channel on about 20 rifles and always used Acraglass to bed. The only spot I have ever taped on the lug was the bottom. I did that to ensure there was clearance so the lug did not bottom out once the Acraglass was cured. IIRC the instructions called for 2 coats of the supplied release agent. I always used an additional or 3rd coat of release agent all over the lug including the tape on the bottom. My reasoning for not taping the whole lug is that if the lug does not fit snug what's the benefit of the bedding. I have never had an issue removing the action from the stock using this method. YMMV. Good luck.
 
Since the purpose of "glass" bedding is to fill voids and ensure a tight fit between the action and the stock, it seems that any tape with an appreciable thickness would defeat the purpose. I agree with shooter1niner, above, and I would use release agent in preference to any tape. If I had to use tape, I would use a non-stick Teflon tape, or thin PVC tape. Anything with a rough surface, such as some types of masking tape, would have bedding compound sticking to it, which is exactly what you don't want.
 
I use blue masking tape, trimmed with a razor, on the front and sides of the lug.

I also use 2 coats of release agent, and that seems to be enough to keep the AcraGlass from retaining the tape unless there's a tiny corner sticking up. At that point you'll be needing your nose-hair tweezers to pick it out of the bedding.
 
shooter1niner said:
I've bedded the lug and a bit of barrel channel on about 20 rifles and always used Acraglass to bed. The only spot I have ever taped on the lug was the bottom. I did that to ensure there was clearance so the lug did not bottom out once the Acraglass was cured. IIRC the instructions called for 2 coats of the supplied release agent. I always used an additional or 3rd coat of release agent all over the lug including the tape on the bottom. My reasoning for not taping the whole lug is that if the lug does not fit snug what's the benefit of the bedding. I have never had an issue removing the action from the stock using this method. YMMV. Good luck.
Click to expand...

As the front of the lug has nothing to do with recoil a bit of tape there has no negative effect. The small amount of clearance on the sides and front of the lug does make it easier to remove or replace the action. I suppose any imperfection in the lug could possibly cause a mechanical lock and the tape clearance is a bit of insurance. I have done hundreds of rifles this way over the years. Most smiths tape, but to each their own.
 
I typically use painters tape, and most frequently use 4 layers to provide the minimum clearance I desire. I use “teens of layers” for bedding barrel channels, to get the correct thickness for offset.
 
Just did my first one this week and blue painters tape seemed to work pretty good. I used electrical tape to kind of spacer the barrell and tang and to hold the receiver in the stock while the devcon was curing. It all seemed to turn out well.
 
I use the black, shiny, electricians tape for a couple of reasons. It's a bit thicker than normal masking tape and it adheres well to the recoil lug areas that you don't want touching in the stock. Bedding compound will not stick to the shiny surface of the tape. Not a bad idea to use the same tape on the underside of the barrel, and its sides, if you want a "floated" barrel.
 
Ive used blue painters tape..but the last couple Ive done I didnt bother taping the recoil lugs at all. Like others have pointed out...kinda defeats the purpose.

What I did instead...put a few extra heavy coat of Johnsons paste wax.

It also what I use in place of the release agent.
It just works.
 
If you do coose to use electrical tape be aware that it comes in various widths up to 2". The wider stuff would make it easier to get a smooth bed in some places like bedding the first couple inches of the barrel.
 
BBBBill said:
If you do coose to use electrical tape be aware that it comes in various widths up to 2". The wider stuff would make it easier to get a smooth bed in some places like bedding the first couple inches of the barrel.
Click to expand...
Might try the black 2" wide plumber's tape-the tape used on plumbing where it penetrates masonry or concrete. This stuff is strong, sticky, and mics out at .017".
Stephen
 
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