Lube Advice (stuck cases)

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WaltWhite

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I’ve been reloading straight wall revolver for a few years with good results. Moving into bottleneck rifle and I’ve got two for two stuck cases.

The technique I was told to use (which obviously does not work) was to give the inside of a paper lunch type bag a good spray and then toss casings in there. Not sure if I’m getting too much or too little lube with this method, but clearly it’s not working.

What do you folks use?
 
Lots of stuff out there that will work, but I must admit, I have never heard of the paper bag method,,, (Plastic, yes, Paper, no)
 
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What kind or spray lube are you using? Usually you can put the cases in a plastic tub and spray the cases directly. Follow the directions on the lube if it says to let dry for a few minutes let them dry.
 
I had a hard time getting .50 Beowulf cases to size with Hornady One Shot and Lee lubricant and took some advice here and got Imperial Wax. Now they size with ease as does 45-70.

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Use lanolin/alcohol 10:1 mix case lube and you will never stick a case. You can either google the recipe or just use the Dillon case lube spray. The key is to let the alcohol complete evaporate before trying to size the case.

If you are going to use the bag method, put your cases in, spray them with a few pumps, and shake them around to fully distribute the lube. Then, pour them out on a towel for at least 15 minutes so the alcohol can completely evaporate before sizing. Or do what I do... after lubing them in the bag, pour them into a bowl and lightly blow them off with an air compressor until you can no longer smell the alcohol.

Hornady one shot will stick cases all the time. Some die manufacturers tell you not to use it.
 
definately too little lube. The only symptom of too much will be dents in the shoulder area. Do I understand correctly that you are spraying the bag and not the cases directly? I cannot see this transferring enough lube to the cases.

My method with spray aerosols (Lyman and Hornady one shot) is twofold, depending on caliber and volume. For a low volume load, 50 or less, I use a plastic loading block and lightly mist all 4 sides. For smaller calibers, less lube is generally required. Once fired military brass, or anything fired in a large chamber may require more.

For smaller calibers, (.223) and/or larger volumes I use a one gallon ziploc bag. The lube is sprayed directly on the cases, then they are agitated, then sprayed again. It doesn't take a buttload, but individual cases should feel slightly slippery.
 
The paper bag is going to soak up some of the lubricant, I've never heard or even considered using paper. Put your cases in a plastic bag like a ZipLock so you don't have to worry about the paper taking lubricant plus the bag contains the mess.
 
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For smaller calibers, (.223) and/or larger volumes I use a one gallon ziploc bag. The lube is sprayed directly on the cases, then they are agitated, then sprayed again. It doesn't take a buttload, but individual cases should feel slightly slippery.

This basically is the method I use with spray on lubricants except I use a 1 qt ZipLoc plastic tube to shake the cases around. I then set them to dry on a tray.

What has not been mentioned is you should allow the cases to dry before sending them through the sizing die. The alcohol needs to flash off leaving the lubricant behind. The alcohol by itself does not make a good lubricant.
 
I also use the lanolin/alcohol mix with a gallon zip lock bag, look around for some 99% alcohol or use the red Heat fuel treatment, I use 1oz lanolin to 1 bottle of Heat. The spray bottle came from either Dollar General or Dollar Tree, they had different colors to match your press:thumbup:, I give a couple of squirts in the bag then put brass in and mix around then dump them on a pan to dry, another squirt and repeat, the bags last a While.
 
I’ve never heard of the paper bag lube method. When I started you used an ink pad with really messy lube, and usually had shoulder dimples. It works, but there are better ways. I use Imperial wax, but the spray lubes work as well. I also lube the inside of the case mouth with a graphite powder so the expander doesn’t work as hard. Good luck!
 
For smaller cases I put face down on an RCBS reloading block and spray with One Shot. Like I said earlier, for longer straight walled cases I luber individually with the wax before inserting into the sizing die.
 
I use Hornady One shot on my 7.62x54R, .243 and not one stuck case so far. It may not go as far per can as some other solutions, but it works and i do not have stuck cases.

leftytsgc
 
I use the spray lube from Midway..there brand...Frankford Arsenal or something like that.

I just works. Couple light spritz...let dry, size.

Easy and cheap, easy to wipe off with a clean rag, or if your real anal like I used to be, you can pizz the wife off by running the sized brass through the dishwasher.

Not necessary in the least, but but like I said...for those who need perfect perfection.....
 
Good advice so far.

If you're making your own case lube "spray" be sure to use anhydrous lanolin oil and 99% isopropyl alcohol, mix between 10:1 and 20:1.

I'm using 20:1. Allowing the lube to dry is critical. I lube around 200 .223 cases at a time in a large zip lock bag. I know there is enough when I can see the lube stuck to the inside of the bag.

For larger military cases like 30-06 for my Garand I use a lube pad and lanolin "grease". I hand roll 5 cases at a time to be sure the lube is applied evenly. It's not necessary to lube the case neck area.

Pure anhydrous lanolin is available on line from sites that sell skin care products.

Smiles,
 
My go to has been Imperial. But Mink Oil was suggested, and since my Imperial was AWOL, and I had Mink Oil for my boots, I tried it. Works just as good and far cheaper, especially since it was upstairs. When the Imperial is empty, I will refill the can with Mink Oil.
 
I use my home brew lanolin lube on everything from 204 to 375 H&H with no issues. Maybe my stuff is a little heavy on the lanolin but I don't even wait until its dry. I spray the cases inside the bag, turn bag over and spray again, seal up bag and shake the brass around a few time then open the bag and start sizing.
I do use Imperial for small batches or something quick. Here I rub my index finger in the Imperial the rub my thumb, index and middle finder together to spread the lube out. When I pick up a piece of brass I hold it with the three lubed finger and rub them around on the brass. This method is quick, easy and keeps the mess down.
 
This method has yet to fail me with bottle necked cases although I switched to doing them one at a time with Hornady Unique lube because its so much cheaper.
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With the right lube and in the proper amount your method will work. So I am with the “what lube are you using?” group.

I prefer the lanolin/alcohol lubes like the Dillon and homemade ones over Hornady’s one shot. A ziplock, cookie sheet (I use a bankers box lid) and a couple squirts over the cases then shake so they roll a bit and wait a few seconds for the alcohol to evaporate, does the job efficiently.

For just a few cases the lubes like Hornady’s unique and imperial on your fingers and rubbed onto the case work well too.
 
STP and an ink pad work for most of my resizing. When I use the Willis die for magnum cases, I use Imperial.
 
I use imperial sizing die wax. I just grab a cartridge dab my finger on the wax and put brass between my fingers, one at a time. Works for me. On occasion I use the Lyman dry lube, it works too. Check inside your dies and make sure they are clean. Get a Q-tip check the surface for rough edges or build up of lube. I like to use a Q-tip soaked in alcohol to clean my dies.
 
Imperial sizing die wax or couple drops of STP on a square piece of old wool hunting sock. Both work great and no dents or stuck cases ever, no waiting to dry and very inexpensive.
 
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