Hooda Thunkit
Member
Finally.
I've been considering building a PID controller for the lead pot for maybe 2 years. I gathered up some material, put it on the back shelf (literally) and didn't do anything for months and months.
I finally got around to constructing the device.
These are the pieces, minus some moxnix things, such as wiring, screws, terminal ends. Left to right - the k-type thermocouple, solid state relay (40 amp, serious overkill), the PID unit (1/32 size), under that an on-off switch. Last is the indicator lamp, that I ended up not wiring in.
lay out the cut for the PID unit -
Everything set up to wire -
Wired up-
Give you an idea of the size -
Make sure the thermocouple is set correctly, I used ice-water and an instant-read mechanical thermometer. Reads 33 degrees, I suppose that's good...
Set up on the pot, after doing the auto-learn cycle. I set it to 725 degrees.
I didn't cast with it, but watched it for 2 hours. It cycled from 724-726 degrees. That will work.
I didn't use a dedicated heat sink for the SSR (solid state relay), because I mounted it to the aluminum box. I don't foresee a problem.
I learned a few things.
- My mechanical thermometer for the lead pot reads about 20 degrees cool
- building this was easier than I had anticipated.
- I should have done this 2 years ago.
Now I want to build one for my electric smoker. I've got maybe $70 in this controller, but I can do the next one somewhat cheaper. I think I can cut $10 off the cost.
I've been considering building a PID controller for the lead pot for maybe 2 years. I gathered up some material, put it on the back shelf (literally) and didn't do anything for months and months.
I finally got around to constructing the device.
These are the pieces, minus some moxnix things, such as wiring, screws, terminal ends. Left to right - the k-type thermocouple, solid state relay (40 amp, serious overkill), the PID unit (1/32 size), under that an on-off switch. Last is the indicator lamp, that I ended up not wiring in.
lay out the cut for the PID unit -
Everything set up to wire -
Wired up-
Give you an idea of the size -
Make sure the thermocouple is set correctly, I used ice-water and an instant-read mechanical thermometer. Reads 33 degrees, I suppose that's good...
Set up on the pot, after doing the auto-learn cycle. I set it to 725 degrees.
I didn't cast with it, but watched it for 2 hours. It cycled from 724-726 degrees. That will work.
I didn't use a dedicated heat sink for the SSR (solid state relay), because I mounted it to the aluminum box. I don't foresee a problem.
I learned a few things.
- My mechanical thermometer for the lead pot reads about 20 degrees cool
- building this was easier than I had anticipated.
- I should have done this 2 years ago.
Now I want to build one for my electric smoker. I've got maybe $70 in this controller, but I can do the next one somewhat cheaper. I think I can cut $10 off the cost.
