The Classic New Bee.

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A little late to this party, but, I read you say something about a bushmaster ar that you weren't going to suppress, is that a 450 bm?

I have several 450 bm, one ar and one bolt, that I suppress with a Silencerco Hybrid.
It does a great job and the 450 is much nicer to shoot suppressed.
Just a thought.
 
Perhaps @dogtown tom could help me with my idiocy?
Was there a preview button I missed?
Can I edit the form? I doubt it, there is a great big “submitted” stamp across it.

Dang. :( It’s true. To really screw up you need a computer...
 
Okay. Well, hmm. The fellow at the branch said, “As long as it’s clear and you, it should fine.”

That does not fill me with confidence.

I said I wasn’t sure how to change it.
He said he didn’t know either, so...

Placing two on red and rolling...

I guess I just do it over again if it doesn’t work.:(
 
Demi-human said:
Okay. Well, hmm. The fellow at the branch said, “As long as it’s clear and you, it should fine.”

That does not fill me with confidence.

I said I wasn’t sure how to change it.
He said he didn’t know either, so...

Placing two on red and rolling...

I guess I just do it over again if it doesn’t work.:(
Click to expand...
If there is a problem they will send your paperwork back to make the necessary correction(s) and you send it back to them. It only caused a minor delay when I had to do it.
 
The NFA can edit your form if there is a minor correction.
For my trash can build they didn't like "22LR" and just changed it to "22".
 
So. If there is a problem, will they email me?
I’ve logged on to my account and there is no change from before. Still submitted and pending. As far as I can tell.

I’m trying to have patience, but that’s just a girls name in Ireland, so I have to admit, I’m a little jealous of @Elkins45.:D

I have practiced with a brand new vibra-pen and steel pipe and am pleased to say that it will not look like a third grader did it. Not machine perfect, but clean, hand lettered script, ala’ Perfect touch label maker. Much nicer than typewriter set or Comic Font.
I haven’t done any of my tubes yet, as I want them to reflect exactly what is on the form received back.
Ya know, when I get them...

I am already contemplating another stamp for future projects, but just spent my fun money on another case of rimfire. Down to the last one and want to save the SV for the new can! But I can’t drill it yet!

Perhaps it would have been better to have them in “jail”, where I can’t admire them. Out of sight, out of mind? Ha, I wish my brain worked like that!;)

I suppose this wait wouldn’t be so bad if I was more sure of my forms.
Usually my impulsive nature prevents my Analysis Paralysis, yet I have nothing to do but contemplate right now.

I am a spectator, waiting for the diver to jump.
I am that second that a hawk stalls on the thermal draft.
I am a horse at the gate, wondering why the jockey is still talking...
 
When I did my 10-22 SBR the site was being really buggy and I had to redo most of my submission several times. It turns out that when I submitted was the one time I skipped over filling out the “Purpose” box. An assistant to the examiner called me and had me edit the form. This was 2014 and they were running 3-4 months back then, and the error didn’t slow the process down.
 
Elkins45 said:
and they were running 3-4 months back then, and the error didn’t slow the process down.
Click to expand...

Ah, I see. I have no cause for alarm and must be more patient!:)
I just get excited. I hope they just spin the pic and send them.

I am happy for your good fortune for certain!:thumbup:
That’s the way it’s supposed to work, in my humble opinion.
 
Demi-human said:
As I wait patiently I notice that some suppressors have cuts in the baffles. Would these “Clips” be beneficial to install on a rimfire can?
Click to expand...
My Spectre II has single clips in each of the baffles, so they seem to think it makes a difference. I’m going to clip my new one once the PO decides to stop shuttling my shipment back and forth between the same two distribution centers.
 
Good luck, @Demi-human ! I hope it all works out. I will warn you, though, it's not going to be easy on your wallet. I own exactly one suppressor at the moment, but it's awesome! I think you're gonna love it.
 
Demi-human said:
As I wait patiently I notice that some suppressors have cuts in the baffles. Would these “Clips” be beneficial to install on a rimfire can?
Click to expand...

Absolutely.

The clips disrupt laminar air flow. There are a few suppressor designs which accomplish this by other means (namely AAC rifle cans), but the extreme majority employ clipping in one form or another. K baffles are a little different with a scoop & waist port, but those features accomplish the same thing (as well as pushing gas into the low pressure area around the waist).

While it depends on the baffle profile, I have found conical baffles for low pressure rounds do best with a double radiused clip about 40% of aperture diameter and usually a bit deeper than they are wide. These are the baffles in my Ocelot, a 1" x 5.5" rimfire model that meters subs at 114-117 on rifles and 118-121 on pistols:

Sw6xE5t.jpg
 
Do you line up the baffles stacking the cuts uniformly, turn them around 90* to each other, or in a random pattern for the best sound reduction?

OK, now I see little "legs" coming down, so I guess they're stacked uniformly.
 
Would a typical slot like those work the same on a bell shaped baffle?

There is a flat face to drill out on the front of the bell, but I doubt my abilities to machine into the side of the bell with my tools. I think two smaller holes drilled to the side of the bore hole and a dremeling out the remainder
Maybe a small cutting wheel if it does need to go into the bell side?


Speedo66 said:
OK, now I see little "legs" coming down, so I guess they're stacked uniformly.
Click to expand...

Is this a big deal? Mine won’t line up like that, at least not to the extent that I’m sure they are. I could make a delrin slat to line up the clips, but would they stay that way when I twist the cap in?
Maybe if I lube the last spacer to the cap?
 
Demi-human said:
Would a typical slot like those work the same on a bell shaped baffle?

There is a flat face to drill out on the front of the bell, but I doubt my abilities to machine into the side of the bell with my tools. I think two smaller holes drilled to the side of the bore hole and a dremeling out the remainder
Click to expand...

I assume you're talking about radial cones?

Depends on the exact profile, but generally I would use a single clip on radials.

Aligning the clips does make a difference, how much varies with different designs. Without indexing features machined into the baffles like I do, your choices are using some kind of alignment rod or putting a little super glue on the contact surfaces before assembly. Delrin might work, but generally you need to use metal, preferably steel. When the baffles twist during end cap tightening, they'll dig into softer materials and make it difficult or impossible to remove your rod. I'd made lots of acetyl alignment rods, but inlet them for a piece of steel keystock for the clips.
 
MachIVshooter said:
Absolutely.

The clips disrupt laminar air flow. There are a few suppressor designs which accomplish this by other means (namely AAC rifle cans), but the extreme majority employ clipping in one form or another. K baffles are a little different with a scoop & waist port, but those features accomplish the same thing (as well as pushing gas into the low pressure area around the waist).

While it depends on the baffle profile, I have found conical baffles for low pressure rounds do best with a double radiused clip about 40% of aperture diameter and usually a bit deeper than they are wide. These are the baffles in my Ocelot, a 1" x 5.5" rimfire model that meters subs at 114-117 on rifles and 118-121 on pistols:

View attachment 942827
Click to expand...
What’s your bore diameter on your .22 baffles? I used a 17/64 bit on mine and when I look down the bore it seems aligned, but I wonder if I shouldn’t err on the side of caution and go up one more step?
 
I was going to use 9/32”. And an 1/8” for the clips.(I’m a carpenter. I have those sizes already.)

I thought a pic of
[redacted (pending declassification)]
One will only need the bore drilled.

The rimfire has the “radial” separators.
But I don’t know what kind the 30Ti is, other than, “already clipped”.:)

I super like the grit blast finish. I’m going to leave it just like that. I like the scotch brite spiral on the rimfire but I’ve scuffed it. I might try polishing it. I am a crow, I like shiny.:thumbup:
 
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Elkins45 said:
What’s your bore diameter on your .22 baffles? I used a 17/64 bit on mine and when I look down the bore it seems aligned, but I wonder if I shouldn’t err on the side of caution and go up one more step?
Click to expand...

.265 is pretty tight.

I bore .22 rimfire stuff at .280", .22 centerfire at .300"
 
I have multiple cans, and while I'm happy with all but one if I had known about MachIVshooter before I'd bought them I'd've gotten all of them from him. Even if his cans are only as good as the rest, the personal service and easy (non-corporate) communication is far and away worth it to me. In other words, he'll actually talk to you as if the two of you are human beings, actually answer your questions. Valuable.


Cat
 
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