Shooting bags (for support), what are you guys using?
- Thread starter mcb
- Start date
- Status
I have yet to get one, but I see them used effectively to brace arms when there is no rear support.
But as @Varminterror posted, if I could only use one bag, it would be one of the game changer/WCM bags in my pic.
Outlaw75
Member
Can someone define PRS? I see it a lot lately and can't find it in the abbreviations sticky.
Kind of bothering me because based on another hobby PRS means https://www.prsguitars.com/ to me. I don't particularly like them, but I don't see a need to actually shoot one!
OP
OP
mcb
Member
Precision Rifle Shooting (PRS) is a "practical" bases rifle competition. They tend to have stages that usually required ~10rds (though this can vary a fair bit) and you usually have one or more shooting positions to engage targets (usually steel) at various ranges out to a 1000 yards or longer if the range supports it. Most stages have a time limit and thus you must quickly move to the shooting position build a stable shooting position and make the prescribe shots, sometimes moving onto other shooting positions with in the stage. Its a lot of fun if you have good dope and no wind. The wind can really make it hard in my limited exposure.Can someone define PRS? I see it a lot lately and can't find it in the abbreviations sticky.
Kind of bothering me because based on another hobby PRS means https://www.prsguitars.com/ to me. I don't particularly like them, but I don't see a need to actually shoot one!
ETA: @Varminterror @Walkalong your pictures and comments have been very helpful and appreciated.
Last edited:
Varminterror
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2016
- Messages
- 14,855
I found an older pic, it is the WCM. Manufacturers should mark them.
I have not used the Wiebad bag on the right.
Sneakshot92
Member
Been there, done that. Works pretty good too. It sure draws eyeballs when one of those bags splits open...
Messy as all get out too.
Just glad they didn't ask me to leave...
My choice of rear bag tends to vary with stock style.
I have an old str8 laced that is half full and super light weight. It was perfect when I was running a traditional McMillan A5 stock. The canvas was soft.
when I switched to chassis with narrow Aluminum butts compared to the wide fiberglass, the chassis would just cut straight to the ground. So I had to switch to thicker canvas with heavier fill.
sadly the current str8 laced isn’t like the older one.
if you’re shooting positional you should definitely get the game changer.
For going standing to prone my rectangular str8 laced bag is much faster on target than I can do with the game changer. and I transition targets faster with it too. Including movers.
but it’s worthless under the forearm. Can’t hold a candle to the game changer shooting positional.
I will also say when I first started out I went to a fabric store and got some spandex and sewed it into a double lined bag. Filled with heavy play sand. That was probably my fav rear bag to shoot from. But it made a mess and left sand dust everywhere. And sucked when it got wet.
the advantage of the old light micro poly bead fill stuff on the str8 laced is that I flush cupped it to the rear of the stock and it was always there. Never had to worry about losing it. Always have less stuff in my hand when I just pick up the gun to move and when I get where I’m going the bag is right where I need it. Game changer is way too heavy to do that.
I have an old str8 laced that is half full and super light weight. It was perfect when I was running a traditional McMillan A5 stock. The canvas was soft.
when I switched to chassis with narrow Aluminum butts compared to the wide fiberglass, the chassis would just cut straight to the ground. So I had to switch to thicker canvas with heavier fill.
sadly the current str8 laced isn’t like the older one.
if you’re shooting positional you should definitely get the game changer.
For going standing to prone my rectangular str8 laced bag is much faster on target than I can do with the game changer. and I transition targets faster with it too. Including movers.
but it’s worthless under the forearm. Can’t hold a candle to the game changer shooting positional.
I will also say when I first started out I went to a fabric store and got some spandex and sewed it into a double lined bag. Filled with heavy play sand. That was probably my fav rear bag to shoot from. But it made a mess and left sand dust everywhere. And sucked when it got wet.
the advantage of the old light micro poly bead fill stuff on the str8 laced is that I flush cupped it to the rear of the stock and it was always there. Never had to worry about losing it. Always have less stuff in my hand when I just pick up the gun to move and when I get where I’m going the bag is right where I need it. Game changer is way too heavy to do that.
Dave DeLaurant
Member
Some seriously nice gear here!
Wow, I thought my basic Caldwell set and Lyman rest was hot stuff -- remind me never to offer advice on this topic.
Wow, I thought my basic Caldwell set and Lyman rest was hot stuff -- remind me never to offer advice on this topic.
Varminterror
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2016
- Messages
- 14,855
For most hunters and shooters, your set IS hot stuff, and would be a huge advantage over what they tend to use, and your experience based opinion on the use of that equipment is as valid and as valuable as anyone else’s experience based opinions with our equipment.
This thread definitely had a divisive dichotomy of inferred question being asked - the OP mentioned bench and prone shooting, mentioned PRS shooting, then asked about PRS bags. A lot of folks subsequently answered about bench rests and bags - but not many folks shoot PRS competitions, so most folks haven’t experienced that particular gear to contextualize the question. To a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
SavingNolanRyan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2019
- Messages
- 81
From this thread, I saw those Protektor bags. I opted for a rear bag and a front - 7A. What I didn't factor in, was the size of the front bag. I need another 3" or so. I think Protektor site talks about using a block of wood, 6"x6"x2-3". I see lots of people use front tripods and mechanical rests. Is there another bag to supplement the 3" height needed for that front rest? Looking for options. Couple of books/piece of wood, another sandbag or two? Thoughts?
Looks like Walkalong has options with his front rest double duty as rear rest, too. Nice.
Mike
Looks like Walkalong has options with his front rest double duty as rear rest, too. Nice.
Mike
OP
OP
mcb
Member
So I actual went cheap and decided to make my own. I started with my version the Armageddon Gear Squishy since I needed the rear bag worst than the front bag at the moment. Picked up some spandex, poly pellets for fill, and velcro from local craft stores. The webbing is recycled from old straps from other projects.
Sewing spandex had a bit of a learning curve but so far I am pleased. The real test will be to see how these hold up to hard use. The right one is 3-inch diameter and 6 inches long. The left one is 4 inches in diameter and 5 inches long. I think the fat one is going to work better with my chassis gun but the thinner one might actually be better with more traditional stocks.
For a front bag I am going to make my own version blending some features of the Game-Changer and Fortune Cookie. I already have some heavy duck canvas and more webbing to make the bag and its handles. Heavy plastic pellet fill (nearly twice the density of the stuff I got locally) and canvas-wax for treating the duck canvas is inbound. I just need to finalize my pattern and start sewing.
Sewing spandex had a bit of a learning curve but so far I am pleased. The real test will be to see how these hold up to hard use. The right one is 3-inch diameter and 6 inches long. The left one is 4 inches in diameter and 5 inches long. I think the fat one is going to work better with my chassis gun but the thinner one might actually be better with more traditional stocks.
For a front bag I am going to make my own version blending some features of the Game-Changer and Fortune Cookie. I already have some heavy duck canvas and more webbing to make the bag and its handles. Heavy plastic pellet fill (nearly twice the density of the stuff I got locally) and canvas-wax for treating the duck canvas is inbound. I just need to finalize my pattern and start sewing.
alsaqr
Member
i use a padded adjustable front rest and a rear bag:
3"? That's a lot.
Not cheap, but a tall rear bag, great quality.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2980149606?pid=676091
I have used a piece of 2x6 under a bag, works ok.
I have this "spacer" as well.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015104549?pid=176463
Small "brick" bag, I normally use it for my elbow, but you can stack on top of it, it's just not as stable that way. (And a head gasket for a 1949 Willys)
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015247977?pid=482886
A very old one and a newer one on the shelf.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015247977?pid=482886
A very old one and a newer one on the shelf.
Varminterror
Member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2016
- Messages
- 14,855
Looks a lot like the squeeze tubes I make for rear support:
SavingNolanRyan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2019
- Messages
- 81
The 7A Protektor front bag is about 4" high the the rear bag is probably 2 1/2" or so. I stacked a couple books under it and measure about 3" but I will move the bags around more carefully to find the height needed.
This is the part I didn't notice - taken from their site description of the 7a front bag - The bag measures 4" H from bottom to top of saddle where the forend of the rifle rests and is approximately 2" in-between the ears. A base or block of wood 6" W x 6" L x 2" - 3" thick is used under the bag.
SavingNolanRyan
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2019
- Messages
- 81
I went to the scrap woodpile and found a nice piece of 4x8 11in long. With the height at 3 1/2” the pice of wood is just about perfect. Not sure if I will trim it up to reduce size, it is very stable as is. I may square it up a little in the chop saw and put boiled linseed oil on it and call it good.
FL-NC
Member
I have an old set of rabbit ears from wally world that have been repaired with duct tape and really should be replaced. For rear bags, I use the ones sold by Accuracy 1st. But the best ones are those made by Armageddon Gear- I'm just too cheap to buy any.
OP
OP
mcb
Member
So my pint-size/Shmedium copy of a support bag is done. This worked out even better than the squishy bag. The heavy canvas was much easier to work with.
I first cut the pieces out, five of them and then before stitching them I waxed the pieces with a canvas wax from Bull Hide Leather. Rub it on and then melted it in with a heat gun. I applied it two times. It did not make the canvas as stiff as I thought it would but it did give it some more body. I then stitched the pieces together adding two handled made from some 1-1/2 web. All the seams are double stitched and the seam in the bottom of the center "valley" in the bag is reinforces with a second piece of canvas on the inside.
The fill is were I really made out. I order some heavy fill from Amazon and compared to the stuff I bought at the local hobby store that I use for the spandex bags it roughly twice as dense and is dense enough the plastic pellets sinks in water. I was very please with this.
I did not do the embroidery of the initials that was from the wife's much newer sewing machine. The canvas I used was scraps from one of her projects and this one scrape had my initials on it from her learning to use her new sewing machine. I was able to incorporate it into one of the side pieces. I am not allowed to play with fancy machine, I am still using a Singer made in the 1950's for Montgomery Ward and passed down to my from my grandmother.
This is the plastic fill:
The low density on the left and the high density on the right.
For a size comparison:
The far left is the larger of my spandex bags and weighs in at 2lbs, the small spandex bag weighs 1.5 lbs, the new canvas bag weighs in at 7.5 lbs. For comparison the large Caldwell commercial bag on the far right only weighs just shy of 7 lbs.
If the weather cooperated my brother and I will put them to the test tomorrow with some shooting.
I first cut the pieces out, five of them and then before stitching them I waxed the pieces with a canvas wax from Bull Hide Leather. Rub it on and then melted it in with a heat gun. I applied it two times. It did not make the canvas as stiff as I thought it would but it did give it some more body. I then stitched the pieces together adding two handled made from some 1-1/2 web. All the seams are double stitched and the seam in the bottom of the center "valley" in the bag is reinforces with a second piece of canvas on the inside.
The fill is were I really made out. I order some heavy fill from Amazon and compared to the stuff I bought at the local hobby store that I use for the spandex bags it roughly twice as dense and is dense enough the plastic pellets sinks in water. I was very please with this.
I did not do the embroidery of the initials that was from the wife's much newer sewing machine. The canvas I used was scraps from one of her projects and this one scrape had my initials on it from her learning to use her new sewing machine. I was able to incorporate it into one of the side pieces. I am not allowed to play with fancy machine, I am still using a Singer made in the 1950's for Montgomery Ward and passed down to my from my grandmother.
This is the plastic fill:
The low density on the left and the high density on the right.
For a size comparison:
The far left is the larger of my spandex bags and weighs in at 2lbs, the small spandex bag weighs 1.5 lbs, the new canvas bag weighs in at 7.5 lbs. For comparison the large Caldwell commercial bag on the far right only weighs just shy of 7 lbs.
If the weather cooperated my brother and I will put them to the test tomorrow with some shooting.
daniel craig
Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2009
- Messages
- 2,815
I have a plan I’m working on to make my own. I got the idea when I saw one of those “sand in a balloon” toys. I figured I could make one like that and then sew a rugged protective cover around it.
jleyring
Member
Got some shooting bags from Scheels a few years back. Have worked great. Sometimes need a bit more in the front so I have a sock filled with dry beans to give it a few more inches. Simple and cheap.
- Status
Similar threads
