Mistakes Made, a cautionary tale...

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With some hesitation I'm about to share the following story, mainly because it illustrates me being a bonehead, but hopefully it will help someone else from making the same mistakes. Let me say up front that I do not have pictures of the failure, I'm working on getting them and will post them when I can.

So after assembling a few ARs, I decided to try my hand at something else. I chose a Glock 20 style build using a polymer 80 lower with aftermarket parts to complete the assembly. (I'm not going to name the supplier here, PM me if you're interested.) So here is the first lesson, from a financial standpoint, I'd have been better off just to have bought the pistol I wanted to start with.

I get all the parts (finally) and begin to assemble them. I measure twice and cut once, as they say. The frame seemed to fit tight in the jig, the holes were drilled clean, the extra material was removed cleanly, filed then sanded down. I assembled the component parts which consisted of the aftermarket lower completion kit and the cerakoted slide and upper parts completion kit/sights. Upon attempting to cycle the slide, it would stick. Not a little, full on locked up. Remove the backplate from the upper and pull the guts out stuck. Most of the time I ended up removing the pins from the frame to remove the slide. I did this multiple times, getting increasingly pissed each time. Lesson #2, when you get frustrated, put it down until you calm down.

This leads to my most heinous error which was taking a hammer (gasp, really? Oh yeah, see above) to the pins to "aid" in their removal. Mission accomplished. What I also accomplished, and wish I had a picture of, was cracking the frame along the wall between the magazine well and the trigger module location. Thereby allowing the frame to flex and the trigger not to reset properly, thereby sticking the action repeatedly.

After several days of dealing with this, I finally found the problem and ordered a replacement frame from the same vendor I'd bought the rest of the parts from. It came in and almost slid right on, but the slide rails were too tight and it bound up. Some oil, a very small amount of work with the file, and lots of slide manipulation, and the gun will fire and cycle....sometimes. I've been working the slide several times a day while I get more ammo, and I'm ready to test it out tomorrow. So far there's been 50 rounds fired through it, most of which I had to smack the slide back into battery. As of now the slide seems to work normally (like my Glock 19 and 22), but time will tell.

So, lessons learned... Leave the hammers for driving nails or shaping steel. Calm down and walk away. Buy what you want from the factory, and if you can't (or won't) do that, expect issues. That being said, I've learned an awful lot about how a Glock goes together, and now I have one that's one of a kind. I'm ready for the flames I may face by posting this, but I feel like it's important to do right now with all of the new people getting in to guns and maybe taking the 80% lower route. I'm pretty sure that my jig flexed when I was drilling the trigger pin holes and that was the root of the issue. My impatience certianly didn't help. Here's some pictures of the finished product, with a 7 yard target.

Edited to add, Mods please move this if it's in the wrong place
 

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Using a hammer is absolutely normal for driving pins in and out. Make sure you are using the appropriate sized punch and use taps instead of bangs.

The crack in the rear wall of the magazine well is almost always caused by trying to use a gen 4 trigger housing. This is made unfortunately common due to people who recommend using a gen 4 ejector, which fyi isn't necessary. The trick is to remove the gen 4 ejector from the gen 4 trigger housing and install it on a gen 3 trigger housing. I have built my last five P80s all with gen ejectors an have never had an issue. It's a "fix" for a non-existant issue.

As for the last issue, failure to cycle on a polymer 80 is almost always the recoil spring channel needing to be opened up more. The recoil spring channel needs to be cut so that it's vertical walls are flush with the metal rail insert. If you are unsure, get a cheap paint pen from the craft section at walmart. Paint the inside of the portion of the recoil spring channel that you cut out. Assemble the gun and rack the slide several times. Check the paint. If it has been scrapped, you need to remove more material.
 
No flames from this side. We all learn from doing. Impatience is common, but can be a bad, bad thing. Speaking of impatience, I also learned, don't reassemble a custom 1911 you've just cleaned after a few cocktails (no matter how many thousands of times you've slid that slide stop back in place). Showing off a (the price back then) $2300 pistol with an idiot mark tends to make one look like ... an idiot.
 
Building Polymer 80s is both educational and fun. All require some parts fitting and, sometimes, extensive fitting, and, of course, patience. I'd recommend to all that want to try this that they go to www.marinegunbuilder.com and look at the videos there on the basics and procedures to fix issues.

I've built several...and they work perfectly.

IMG_0139.jpeg

Cheers,
 
Building Polymer 80s is both educational and fun. All require some parts fitting and, sometimes, extensive fitting, and, of course, patience. I'd recommend to all that want to try this that they go to www.marinegunbuilder.com and look at the videos there on the basics and procedures to fix issues.

I've built several...and they work perfectly.

View attachment 934548

Cheers,

Those look great! I actually have another kit on the way that was ordered months ago, so this next time I'll be more prepared. ClickClickD'oh offers sound advice, I didn't even think about that, though I was keen to make sure I had a Gen 3 slide to go with the P80 lower. The frame it has now was ordered as a complete lower unit. It wasn't that much more than a P80 and it was in stock. Thank you all for the kind words and support. One of the objectives of this project was to learn how the Glock went together, and that I did. I suppose I could have just taken one I already had apart, but then I wouldn't have had Another gun when I was finished! ;)
 
With some hesitation I'm about to share the following story, mainly because it illustrates me being a bonehead, but hopefully it will help someone else from making the same mistakes. Let me say up front that I do not have pictures of the failure, I'm working on getting them and will post them when I can.

So after assembling a few ARs, I decided to try my hand at something else. I chose a Glock 20 style build using a polymer 80 lower with aftermarket parts to complete the assembly. (I'm not going to name the supplier here, PM me if you're interested.) So here is the first lesson, from a financial standpoint, I'd have been better off just to have bought the pistol I wanted to start with.

I get all the parts (finally) and begin to assemble them. I measure twice and cut once, as they say. The frame seemed to fit tight in the jig, the holes were drilled clean, the extra material was removed cleanly, filed then sanded down. I assembled the component parts which consisted of the aftermarket lower completion kit and the cerakoted slide and upper parts completion kit/sights. Upon attempting to cycle the slide, it would stick. Not a little, full on locked up. Remove the backplate from the upper and pull the guts out stuck. Most of the time I ended up removing the pins from the frame to remove the slide. I did this multiple times, getting increasingly pissed each time. Lesson #2, when you get frustrated, put it down until you calm down.

This leads to my most heinous error which was taking a hammer (gasp, really? Oh yeah, see above) to the pins to "aid" in their removal. Mission accomplished. What I also accomplished, and wish I had a picture of, was cracking the frame along the wall between the magazine well and the trigger module location. Thereby allowing the frame to flex and the trigger not to reset properly, thereby sticking the action repeatedly.

After several days of dealing with this, I finally found the problem and ordered a replacement frame from the same vendor I'd bought the rest of the parts from. It came in and almost slid right on, but the slide rails were too tight and it bound up. Some oil, a very small amount of work with the file, and lots of slide manipulation, and the gun will fire and cycle....sometimes. I've been working the slide several times a day while I get more ammo, and I'm ready to test it out tomorrow. So far there's been 50 rounds fired through it, most of which I had to smack the slide back into battery. As of now the slide seems to work normally (like my Glock 19 and 22), but time will tell.

So, lessons learned... Leave the hammers for driving nails or shaping steel. Calm down and walk away. Buy what you want from the factory, and if you can't (or won't) do that, expect issues. That being said, I've learned an awful lot about how a Glock goes together, and now I have one that's one of a kind. I'm ready for the flames I may face by posting this, but I feel like it's important to do right now with all of the new people getting in to guns and maybe taking the 80% lower route. I'm pretty sure that my jig flexed when I was drilling the trigger pin holes and that was the root of the issue. My impatience certianly didn't help. Here's some pictures of the finished product, with a 7 yard target.

Edited to add, Mods please move this if it's in the wrong place

Thank you for sharing. I have often thought 'how hard can it be, a few parts, assemble and voila, my OWN gun. Caveat emptor indeed!
 
I actually have another kit on the way that was ordered months ago

The first one is always a bit of an experiment and learning experience for everyone. The second is where the fun starts. Be careful though, it's addictive. Before you know it, you will be building meme guns:


The Empire were the good guys!

QAi0zKI.jpg
 
"How to keep your Volkswagen alive, a manual of step by step procedures for the compleat [sic] idiot"

If anyone recalls this wonderful book from back in the day of air cooled VW's, one of the things they stressed and one of the most important things I learned from it was when totally frustrated by an inability to make a repair or get parts to fit, put everything down and walk away.

Upon your now calmer return, you will often magically find the solution that evaded you.
 
Update: Went out to the range this morning and put another 50 rounds through the build. I loaded two magazines with 10 rounds each. First 6 shots broke clean, then the slide started to bind and the FTFs showed up. I removed the slide, cleaned the rails and applied some Hoppes step 4 high performance gun grease to them. Then worked the slide several times. Once it was moving freely, I loaded it up and went at it again. There was a slight hesitation on the next magazine (I had to bump the slide forward) but the final 3 magazines went without a hitch. Suffice it to say the slide and frame have a tight fit. Today I was shooting handloads, mainly 10 gn of Blue Dot under a 180 gn JHP from Montana Gold. I also fired 10 rounds at 10.2 gn Blue Dot and I liked them better. Still need to work on my handgun skills, but a pretty good outing today.
 

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I've built 4 P80s so far and each one had their quirks. Since then I've put over 1000 rounds through each and even took a tactical pistol class with one. Needless to say they all get rotation in my edc.
 
Using a hammer is absolutely normal for driving pins in and out.
For what it's worth, I haven't messed with the Polymer 80 frames and it's possible that they don't follow the same pattern as Glocks when it comes to pin installation and removal.

That said, none of the pins in a Glock pistol require a hammer for installation or removal. If a hammer is required, then there's some kind of a problem that needs to be diagnosed before further assembly/disassembly is performed.

All the pins in a Glock pistol are either a light friction fit and can be easily pushed out with a punch, or they have a "locking" arrangement of some sort that can be released to allow the pin to be removed very easily.

It is certainly true that some types of pins in some firearms do need to be tapped out with a hammer and punch--but that's not the situation with any of the pins in any in-spec Glock pistol.
Make sure you are using the appropriate sized punch...
Excellent advice. Using a punch that is too large can enlarge the holes in the frame which is not a good thing. In addition, it's worthwhile to insure that any punch to be used on a polymer frame gun has a slightly chamfered tip to avoid "cutting" the pin holes larger unintentionally.
 
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