THR Remington 1858 Club

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Old Stumpy said:
My favorite C&B revolver. One piece solid frame and grip with a minimum of screws to remove parts to clean it. Handsome and accurate.
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I have this gun and two open top revolvers. Both the open tops had problems when I got them and needed to be fixed. This gun has never given me a problem and just keeps firing.
 
I've just heard these Witloes were bronze. I dont know how to tell the difference.

Hammer spring snapped on the Uberti shortly after I took this pic. Have to get one on the way or look at alternatives.
 
On counter-historical brass frame Remington mods the top strap won’t prevent peening/coining of the recoil shield. This increases the cylinder/forcing cone gap which causes some people to think the frame has stretched.

Any amount of powder over 25 grains in a brass .44 is asking for trouble.


brass peaning coining jqsyrm.jpg
 
@Eyrie G. Dogg I've heard of the brass frames stretching, but this picture is pretty interesting.

Wonder if you could put a thin plate of hard metal on these that have damage to close the "gap" and to keep it from digging in further with recoil. May not actually be enough room.

I shot 40 grain charges through both of these (one cylinder each) yesterday, but not something I plan to do often. My spout is 20 and works fine for multiple 44s so thats what I shoot.
 
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Eyrie G. Dogg said:
On counter-historical brass frame Remington mods the top strap won’t prevent peening/coining of the recoil shield. This increases the cylinder/forcing cone gap which causes some people to think the frame has stretched.

Any amount of powder over 25 grains in a brass .44 is asking for trouble.


View attachment 932162
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That is not a photo of a Remington 1858 revolver recoil shield.
That's a Spiller & Burr recoil shield.
That photo was posted by Pohill of his Spiller & Burr back in 2008. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/spiller-burr-revolver.357670/#post-4424355

Pohill had mentioned in several posts that he had bought an abused Spiller & Burr.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-replicas.429005/page-2#post-5354626
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/spiller-burr-revolver.357670/#post-4428255

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I was under the impression only confederate pistols were made in brass during the civil war. This was done out of necessity do to lack of materials. I’ve read story’s of church bells being melted to use as frames.
 
Eyrie G. Dogg said:
On counter-historical brass frame Remington mods the top strap won’t prevent peening/coining of the recoil shield. This increases the cylinder/forcing cone gap which causes some people to think the frame has stretched.

Any amount of powder over 25 grains in a brass .44 is asking for trouble.


View attachment 932162
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I acknowledge that the Remington recoil shield can become imprinted which can create a larger cylinder gap.
Posters have described it but I can't seem to find any photos of it.
Some say that once an imprint is noticed, that's a sign to reduce the powder charges.

The Remington's cylinder pin hole can also become emlarged or oval over time which can cause barrel misalignment.
There was a thread where someone fixed that by installing a steel cylinder pin bushing or two to straighten it out.
 
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E.N. Santa Barbara 1858 revolvers made in Spain (1970 & 1973) Type 3

What's cool about the these is every one has slightly different engravings. The individuals who engraved these have different embellishes that I would assume would be akin to a signature.

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ClemBert said:
E.N. Santa Barbara 1858 revolvers made in Spain (1970 & 1973) Type 3

What's cool about the these is every one has slightly different engravings. The individuals who engraved these have different embellishes that I would assume would be akin to a signature.

index.php
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Beautiful pistols! Gunbroker had a listing for one of these engraved model Santa Barbara pistols for the longest time... 600 bucks or so if I recall correctly.
 
Is there any info out there on using Perma Blue cut with water to gently blue my revolver to get an aged look? I have heard something about that but not sure of the process or how much to thin out the Perma Blue. I guess I could put it on and steel wool it if it gets too dark. Just hate to go back and forth like that if I don't have to. Maybe just trial and error? Any help is much appreciated. Thank You All! Don
 
Remington 1858 Stainless Target: Uberti vs Pietta, which one is better quality?

Although, as far as I know, there are no Cimarron and Euroarms stainless target, how those revolvers compare in quality with Uberti or Pietta?

Thanks
 
Don Van Winkle said:
Is there any info out there on using Perma Blue cut with water to gently blue my revolver to get an aged look? I have heard something about that but not sure of the process or how much to thin out the Perma Blue. I guess I could put it on and steel wool it if it gets too dark. Just hate to go back and forth like that if I don't have to. Maybe just trial and error? Any help is much appreciated. Thank You All! Don
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I’m not familiar with permablue but most cold blues require a few passes to deepen the blue. It may be closer than you expect right off the bat.
 
@Onty I think Pietta vs Uberti depends on which model you're looking at, I see you're talking 1858. Current production quality from what iI hear is very similar between the two.

@Don Van Winkle what Woodinbow said is pretty much my experience. Takes many many coats to start resembling real bluing. One coat undiluted would likely be exactly what youre looking for.
 
SlowFuse said:
@Onty I think Pietta vs Uberti depends on which model you're looking at, I see you're talking 1858. Current production quality from what iI hear is very similar between the two.

@Don Van Winkle what Woodinbow said is pretty much my experience. Takes many many coats to start resembling real bluing. One coat undiluted would likely be exactly what youre looking for.
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Some people have used a sponge or q-tips to make a faded case hardened effect.
 
Onty said:
Remington 1858 Stainless Target: Uberti vs Pietta, which one is better quality?

Although, as far as I know, there are no Cimarron and Euroarms stainless target, how those revolvers compare in quality with Uberti or Pietta?

Thanks
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They all have slightly different features that a person could make a checklist, and then try to learn about every little detail.
There's always going to be hidden information and details that are hard to find out....i.e, which one has better stainless steel?
Sometimes it's reputation or 1 or 2 features that really appeal to someone.
If guns were like cars then a person could go to a dealer and take it for a test drive, and talk to a mechanic and ask for all of his knowledge about it.
Do that for each car that you like and then make your choice.
It's not easy to do that with C&B revolvers.
How can anyone compare the grips, frames, sights, trigger, balance or the workmanship without holding each gun in person?
And even then, wouldn't you still wish that you could test it out before buying it? Which one is going to be more accurate?
Should a person bring their calipers into the store? How many shots will I get before it breaks?
Which gun is more comfortable in my hand? Which one will be more reliable and less likely to have cap jams? ;)
 
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ClemBert

Your two engraved Santa Barbara NMA are very nicely done! I especially like the subdued treatment along with having a blued finish and some fine looking grips!
I got this engraved EMF Pietta NMA last year for Christmas. It was on sale and I liked how it looked with the faux ivory grips.
mmLIwSi.jpg
 
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