Bullets for .38/.357

For just target shooting and plinking? 158 gr. Coated Lead semi wadcutter.

Many companies sell them. I like Missouri Bullet company.

I like Missouri Bullet Company's 158 grain 357 Action! LSWC bullets for 357 and 38 special +p loads, and their PPC #2 148 grain DEWC for target loads. The 357 Action! bullets are 18 bhn so you may get leading with lighter loads. For 357 Magnum loads I usually use 2400 or W296, and for 38 Special loads either Bullseye, or Power Pistol, but there are a lot of powders that will work well.

I have used over 10k Montana Gold 125 gr JHP. No complaints.

A cast favorite is Missouri Bullet Company's 140 gr. coated Zinger.

I'm also in the 158gr camp, but I've only loaded jsp so far.

I've used W231 for both 38spcl and 357mag, and H110 for full power 357mag loads.

Welcome to the wonderful world of revolvers!

chris

I prefer 158-160 gr bullets for .38 and .357. I use roundnose for easier speed loading.
I am too lazy to cast, so I buy coated bullets to avoid the hassle of commercial "hard cast" and hard wax lube. I don't handload jacketed bullets although that is what I have in factory defense ammo.

I never read Phil Sharpe or Elmer Keith to complain about leading with their heavily loaded cast bullets. How did they avoid it?

I have loaded a couple of thousand 38/357 rounds in the last year. I have had good luck with 158 gr LCSWC from a local store no name bullets. Several 100 Hornady xtp 158gr bullets and rmr 125gr and 158gr RNFP plated bullets. 38/357 is probably the easiest cartridges to reload. If you decide to load lead you will probably want to expand the case mouth a bit more to prevent shaving the lead from the bullet while seating. I don't think I ever loaded a 38/357 bullet I didn't like.

Missouri bullet company, 158 & 180 grain coated bullets. 2400 or w296/h110. If you're loading your own there is no use for 38 special cases, make your light loads in the longer 357 case to avoid the ring of crud in the cylinder.
For revolver I like 158 swc over 14 grains of 2400 with a magnum primer (not required) with a firm roll crimp. That load isn't working from my 357 rifle, velocity is too great for what I've been using and I'm still figuring that out, in the meantime I'm using 158 xtp bullets for the rifle and they shoot very well and are commonly available .
Good luck

Normally, I would suggest you start with some good jacketed bullets. They are the easiest to have good success with when first starting to load for revolvers. More forgiving with crimp and to throat/bore variances than lead. But with the shortage of reloading components available for .38/,357 right now, I suspect you will have to go with whatever you can get.

I have used cast 150gr 9mm bullets in 38Special with good results at 10 to 15 yards.

Using 3.5gr of HP-38 powder, which makes for a light load and minimal recoil.

I was considering these Speer #4628 bullets for 38 Special velocities as a new press reloader. I have some Lee Loader experience using such bullets 35 or so years ago.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010796433?pid=258551

I've picked up Winchester 231 with 38 Special velocity loads in mind, and Hodgdon H110 for 357 Magnum velocities in mind with some of these Speer #4732 bullets I snagged last month when they were in stock.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2149672349

Jim Watson said:

I never read Phil Sharpe or Elmer Keith to complain about leading with their heavily loaded cast bullets. How did they avoid it?

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Exceptional bullet to bore fit and softer lead than commercial casters use.

I have loaded thousands of Acme 158gr SWC and Acme 148gr button nose wadcutters for revolvers and Bayou bullets 160gr round nose for my Henry.

Do you have adjustable sights. You may want to select a bullet weight on the point of impact. 158 was the design weight for this cartridge but you may find that a different bullet weight optimizes your vertical group. If you target shoot wadcutter designs give very nice round holes and also a full wadcutter in most cases uses very little powder compared to other designs. I would get a small box of 100 to test with prior to committing. A 150 class holowbase wadcutter from Berry's is worth a look.

I got in on a deal for some 158 grain XTPs which work great. I've also come to the conclusion that I can't go wrong with Missouri Bullets coated products.

For just dinking around I prefer the lighter weight stuff because it is cheaper. 125 grn or so. I try to get them sized .359 or so.

If you have both .357 and 9mm consider 135 grain Extreme plated Round Nose or Round Nose Flat Point. I shoot these in 38/357, 9mm and 38 Super in revolvers, semi-autos and 9mm PCC! Easy to shoot at 950 fps and super accurate to 100 yards!

Smiles,

For lead bullets I highly recommend Bear Creek Supply moly coated bullets. For .38 / .357 I like their 158 grain RNFP bullets. They are great for revolvers and lever guns.
I have never had leading issues with these loading at the lowest and highest recommended powder charges for lead bullets.
If you buy direct they charge a flat rate for shipping if all the bullets will fit in a USPS Flat Rate box. Their prices are very reasonable. Give them a call.

https://www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com/

SlowFuse said:

Exceptional bullet to bore fit and softer lead than commercial casters use.

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I know Elmer did not use antimonial lead, he just kept throwing in the tin for "hard" bullets.

For range use, price wise, it’s hard to beat coated 158 gr cast like those from Missouri Bullet or Acme, and at 38 special (and most .357) velocities there is little problem with leading. Just be sure the place you shoot allows cast/coated bullets. I shoot at home, and don’t have that issue, but others have mentioned having that problem in the past, so make sure before you load up a bunch. If cast Isn’t an option, XTP bullets are pretty affordable, and I have had zero issues with them.

Before I offer comment on powders, it really depends on what velocities you want to shoot. If you want bleeding edge velocity, H110/W-296, IMR-4227, 2400, 300-MP, Lil-Gun, and a few others will really sling jacketed bullets down range with oomph. For everything else, you’re going to get 1000-1200 FPS (in a longer barrel, less in 2-4”) regardless of whether its cast or jacketed. There are a good many powders that will get you in that range that use modest powder loads and data is available for. Something like a pound of Titegroup will load a ton of bullets, but there are so many more. Likely, anything you use with 9mm will work with both .38 and .357.

Tensaw said:

I like the idea of using coated bullets. I'm getting my 9 and 45 bullets from Bayou Bullets. In looking at the Missouri website they list .38 and .357 bullets separately. Can't I use the same bullet for both? While I'm asking dumb questions, I'm a little nervous doing a roll crimp just because I've only loaded with a taper crimp. Anything that a newbie needs to know about roll crimping?

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I use a Dillon 650 and so I seat and crimp in 2 different dies. IF you’re using a single stage press I know some guys will say learn how to do both operations in a single step. The dies are made to do it that way. However it’s much easier to seat and crimp in 2 different operations.

Acme actually has .357 coated bullets in stock. I prefer the Bayou Bullets because they have a crimping ring. I do a light roll crimp. But no immediate delivery from Bayou. I shoot the Hornady 158 grain when I shoot jacketed bullets (not often). I also am shooting BB 125 grain. I like them because they print closer the the 158 grain jacketed than the slow cowboy loads with the coated. For the roll crimp I seat and crimp in separate operations. I think roll crimps are easier to judge than taper crimps.

Steelworker said:

I use a Dillon 650 and so I seat and crimp in 2 different dies. IF you’re using a single stage press I know some guys will say learn how to do both operations in a single step. The dies are made to do it that way. However it’s much easier to seat and crimp in 2 different operations.

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It’s better to do two even with cast, but absolutely don’t try to do both with jacketed bullets. I’ve crushed a few cases doing that after loading lots of cast, and switching to jacketed. Sometimes it will work OK. Sometimes you wind up with an explosive accordion.