Howdy Again
One thing you need to understand is that Smith and Wesson has been modifying their designs for a long, long time. Sometimes the changes were made to make the gun better, sometimes they were made to make the gun less expensive to produce. The second type of engineering change is often described as 'driving out the cost to manufacture'. Driving out the cost to manufacture may or may not make the gun easier to use, but manufacturers like it because it saves them money when the gun is made. These cost savings may or may not be passed on to the consumer. If the cost savings are not passed on, the money saved stays in the manufacturer's pocket.
Smith and Wesson manufactured its first revolver in 1857, a tiny 22 Rimfire Tip Up model. By 1860 the design had gone through five engineering changes. Some to make the gun easier to use, some to drive out some of the cost to manufacture. This little guy is a No. 1 Tip Up 1st Issue, 5th Type. It left the factory in 1859. In all there were six versions of this little revolver made before it went out of production in 1860, to be replaced by the No. 1 Tip Up 2nd Issue. Some of those six versions made the gun easier to use, some simply drove out some of the cost to manufacture.
Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with exploring ways to drive out some of the cost to manufacture. Any company that does not do so is cutting its own throat, because a competitor will probabaly find a way to make a similar product cheaper.
A number of years ago Smith and Wesson went to a new process for making many of their small parts called Metal Injection Molding (MIM). Powdered metal is suspended in a binding material. The material is fed into an injection molding machine not much different than an injection molding machine for plastics. The part is molded, then it is baked to drive out the binding material. Once in this state the part is heated just enough so that the individual powdered metal particles bind to each other. The part is not heated enough to melt the particles, it is just heated enough so the individual particles bind on their surfaces to neighboring particles. This is a very cost effective way to make small parts, much less expensive than traditional methods of forging and machining parts from solid metal.
You will hear MIM parts vilified on many gun boards, but it is a perfectly acceptable way to make parts and drive the cost out of manufacturing. Even a very traditional guy such as myself recognizes the legitimacy of MIM parts.
Anyway, sometime in the late 1990s S&W started using MIM parts in their revolvers. They also made many significant changes in the way frames were machined at the same time.
I believe they don't do this because it adds considerable machine time to production costs and there are two simpler alternatives:
My point is eliminating the trigger over travel stop did not save much money. In the overall picture of manufacturing a S&W revolver, I would be surprised if much more than a single dollar was driven out of the cost to manufacture a revolver by eliminating the trigger over travel stop.
Let's look at some photos. Here is the trigger over travel stop on a Model 17-3 made in 1975. All that had to be done to include it was to drill and tap the hole for the screw, and cut a slit for the stop to sit in. This revolver was made in the early days of CNC machining, drilling and tapping the hole and cutting the slit probably only took a few extra lines of code in the CNC program and would involve a tool change for the slit. I have not taken that over travel stop out in a long time, and I am not going to do it now, but I would not be surprised if the threaded hole was tapped with the same tap as the side plate hole next to it.
Here is the same area of the frame on a Model 617-6 made in 2003. Yes, this revolver is full of MIM parts, but that's not what we're talking about here. Clearly, there is no tapped hole for the trigger stop and no slit to place it in. Many years ago I spent some time working with CNC machines, and I'll bet it would only take a CNC programmer a few minutes to add the lines of code needed to put the tapped hole and the slit back in. Once the code has been modified, that part of the job is done. I can't imagine it would take very long to make the extra cuts, particularly when you consider how long it takes to make the complete frame in the first place. The other factor is the elimination of parts needed to assemble the gun. Yup, one screw and one trigger stop are no longer needed. Since these parts were either purchased in bulk, or manufactured in the S&W factory, again not a very big cost savings. And lastly, yup probably about two minutes or so for an experienced assembler to install the extra parts.
My point is, very significant cost savings happened when S&W redesigned their frames in the late 1990s and early 2000s and started using MIM parts. Two cost savings can be seen in the photo above, the studs that the hammer, trigger, and bolt pivot on. Simple pins with parallel sides, vs the shaped studs that can be seen in the Model 17 above. But in the overall scheme of things, eliminating the trigger stop was a very small drop in a pretty big bucket.
Regarding mounting a roll pin in a MIM trigger, I am not aware of that. Perhaps you could elaborate.
Here are two photos of the triggers in the Model 17-3 and the Model 617-6. The 617-6 trigger is a MIM part, the 17-3 trigger is a traditional machined part.
In each photo, the MIM trigger is on the left and the machined trigger is on the right.
The machined trigger is an assembly, consisting of the hand, the trigger, the rod that engages the rebound slide and an internal spring. The parts are held in place by four pins. This trigger assembly needed to be assembled by positioning the parts and driving in the pins.
The MIM trigger only needs the hand an the internal spring pinned in place, the rod is a separate part that is loose and does not need to be assembled into the trigger, it is simply placed in the trigger when the gun is assembled. A classic example of how redesigning parts can save money.
Anyway, the shapes of the parts are very similar. Can you explain where the boss is for the roll pin?
Is the trigger different than what I am showing here?
By the way, I don't know off the top of my head how many S&W revolvers I have with trigger over travel stops in them. Obviously I have a few. None of them have ever come loose and prevented the gun from firing.
Knock on wood.