Help needed

Drive a slightly oversize torx bit in, that will usually get the screws out.

First thing is what is wrong with it that you need to remove them?

LoonWulf said:

Drive a slightly oversize torx bit in, that will usually get the screws out.

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Best reason to get a set of Harbor Freight Torx [] Get a set of imperial and metric, one set will "bite" better than the other.
Alternately, if you know the exact hex size, like 3mm or whatever, getting a HF set of long T-handled hex wrenches may let you get a better advantage on the in place bolts. Knowing the size ought to help you get replacements, too.

skeeterfogger said:

First thing is what is wrong with it that you need to remove them?

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Precisely, unless the mount is loose, or has a wobble, I'd leave it in place. If you are just gettign the scope off, just loosen the mounts where the attach to the pic rail.

Are those tamper-resistant Torx?

CapnMac said:

Best reason to get a set of Harbor Freight Torx [] Get a set of imperial and metric, one set will "bite" better than the other.
Alternately, if you know the exact hex size, like 3mm or whatever, getting a HF set of long T-handled hex wrenches may let you get a better advantage on the in place bolts. Knowing the size ought to help you get replacements, too.


Precisely, unless the mount is loose, or has a wobble, I'd leave it in place. If you are just gettign the scope off, just loosen the mounts where the attach to the pic rail.

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I wasn't aware that there was more than one Torx type. Can you link to these metric Torx??

Cannibul said:

I wasn't aware that there was more than one Torx type. Can you link to these metric Torx??

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I’ve never heard of metric or SAE torx I’ve only ever seen T-10, T-15, T-20 etc

Many of the Torx driver bits, especially GRK, are made with a scalloped form. Grinding down the tip will engage the fastener at a wider part of the star, letting it grab into the head. A VERY GENTLE application of an impact driver may help on a well secured work piece.


Look up “Security fastener bits”. I use a set of these at work every single time I walk into a school or university or restaurant. My favorite is the triangle, they always break off.

As if the kids had screwdrivers, they smash stuff they don’t take it apart. I put it back together with regular fasteners and they stay put. Almost like the challenge is gone....

Pretty easy with a small ez out kit if its only chewed up hex fittings, not frozen threads.

Replace with Torx.

A trick that works sometimes if it's not too chewed up is to put a little bit of gritty hand soap (the kind for scrubbing grease off your hands ) in the hole and on the driver, adds a little grip and takes up a little of the free space. Doesn't always work but sometimes it does.

It might be a good idea to dab on a bit of Prolong or WD-40 on the screws before you try to loosen them in case rust is an issue.

Many years ago as I started out as a entry level A&P mechanic, one the old mechanics mentioned I pick up a can of clover valve lapping compound.
On Piper PA 32 aircraft, we had trouble removing inspection panels at inspection time, the countersunk phillips #6 screw heads would sometimes be very difficult to remove.
On stubbern half stripped screws, we dip the two fisted long screwdriver in the clover compound and with allot of inward pressure would gently back out the stubbern screws.
Some panels would have 14 screws and 1/3 them would need the clover treatment.

https://www.youmotorcycle.com/how-to-fix-stripped-screw-heads-on-motorcycles-or-anything-else.html

CapnMac said:

Best reason to get a set of Harbor Freight Torx [] Get a set of imperial and metric, one set will "bite" better than the other.

Click to expand...

Could you post a link to these imperial and metric torx bits? Never heard of there being two different types.

Rex in OTZ said:

Many years ago as I started out as a entry level A&P mechanic, one the old mechanics mentioned I pick up a can of clover valve lapping compound.
On Piper PA 32 aircraft, we had trouble removing inspection panels at inspection time, the countersunk phillips #6 screw heads would sometimes be very difficult to remove.
On stubbern half stripped screws, we dip the two fisted long screwdriver in the clover compound and with allot of inward pressure would gently back out the stubbern screws.
Some panels would have 14 screws and 1/3 them would need the clover treatment.

https://www.youmotorcycle.com/how-to-fix-stripped-screw-heads-on-motorcycles-or-anything-else.html

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Yep, been there bone that too.

bearcreek said:

Could you post a link to these imperial and metric torx bits? Never heard of there being two different types.

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I've got a set of ...rigid? Bits, and while they all say T-15/20 etc, there like 4 or 5 of each with very slightly different tappers. I can usually find one that fits snug on pretty much any torx or allen head screw I've used so far.
I can grab a picture of the set when I get home.

LoonWulf said:

I've got a set of ...rigid? Bits, and while they all say T-15/20 etc, there like 4 or 5 of each with very slightly different tappers. I can usually find one that fits snug on pretty much any torx or allen head screw I've used so far.
I can grab a picture of the set when I get home.

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That's the normal ones. Torx screws come in sizes ranging from T1 to T100. There are no metric or sae/imperial versions that I've ever heard of.

Jasonmackuk said:

View attachment 941994 View attachment 941995 Hi all I’ve just recently purchased a FN Mauser K98K , it came with an Addley Precision non gun smithing scope mount ,there are 2 machined screws holding the front locking plate on theses are hex key but came very chewed up and I can not remove them to get the mount off I want to remove the screws I don’t want to drill them as this may render the mound scrap any suggestions ?

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Based on the pictures in the installation manual for your mount, is appears as if you may be able to get the mount off the rifle without loosening those screws. Doing that would at least allow you to access the screws without interference from the barrel. I may be wrong though. Tough to tell.

LoonWulf said:

I've got a set of ...rigid? Bits, and while they all say T-15/20 etc, there like 4 or 5 of each with very slightly different tappers. I can usually find one that fits snug on pretty much any torx or allen head screw I've used so far.
I can grab a picture of the set when I get home.

Click to expand...

There is torx plus, like the regular torx but the points are a bit wider, almost spline like

bearcreek said:

That's the normal ones. Torx screws come in sizes ranging from T1 to T100. There are no metric or sae/imperial versions that I've ever heard of.

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Obturation said:

There is torx plus, like the regular torx but the points are a bit wider, almost spline like

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It's a ryobi set, and I've lost or damaged a decent number of them.
They just says 15, 20, 25 but theres enough variation to change the fitment