Rubbing noise from Remington 700 front end

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gregp74

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I picked up this 700 Classic last month. Last week I finally got around to shooting it. When I got home and took it apart for cleaning I noticed the bolt release button didn't pop back up when I pushed it. Took it apart and fixed that (it just needed cleaning.)

After getting it back together I notice that if I push in the spot shown in the pic the barrel moves maybe a 1/32 of an inch and there's a rubbing noise. Any idea what could be causing that? I've got the front and back action screws both torqued to 45 which is what I've been told is proper for the wood stock.
 
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Could it have anything to do with the magazine thing not being positioned quite right? I know when I was putting it back together I had it oriented the right way but wasn't quite sure exactly if it was supposed to go into the action before the stock went on or after or if it didn't matter. (The other 700s I've had it usually did a good job of staying in the action. Didn't come off along with the stock.)
 
It could but I highly doubt it because there’s a lot of space between the fore end and the magazine so that 1/32 is much smaller at the magazine. It would be easy to eliminate that option by pulling it and realigning it. I agree with gotboostvr though. It’s probably the barreled action rubbing the stock somewhere along the thing. Could be the barrel channel, the recoil lug rubbing something, there are all sorts of possibilities. Before I took a dremmel to it I would check the magazine alignment, then put it back together carefully making sure you tighten the action screws in the right order. I don’t remember that order but it’s out there.

edited because fore end was “corrected” to forensic.
 
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Remington factory stocks are not free float. There is a pressure point about where the sling swivel is located. It should be under a little tension against the barrel.

Ha! I was just typing something that correspends to this. "I tried running a piece of paper between the barrel and fore end. It appears that it's rubbing just in front of the front sling stud."

So it sounds like there should be rubbing there. Perhaps a little noise is to be expected. When I'm manhandling the barrel vs the stock.
 
I think the factory spec was 10-15 inch pounds of upward tension on the barrel. The old manuals for wood stocked 700s basically said the place the rifle in the stock, puts screws in place loose, stand on butt with muzzle up to keep the recoil lug seated, tighten the forearm screw to 35, then the wrist screw to 45. If there is a 3rd screw in front of the trigger, it only goes hand tight.
 
I think the factory spec was 10-15 inch pounds of upward tension on the barrel. The old manuals for wood stocked 700s basically said the place the rifle in the stock, puts screws in place loose, stand on butt with muzzle up to keep the recoil lug seated, tighten the forearm screw to 35, then the wrist screw to 45. If there is a 3rd screw in front of the trigger, it only goes hand tight.

Aha! Thank you I haven't been able to find good info on the torque specs. I'll give that a try in a bit and see how it goes.
 
Sway bar bushings are worn..........

Remington factory stocks are not free float. There is a pressure point about where the sling swivel is located. It should be under a little tension against the barrel.
That's your sound/rub

View attachment 944774

Could it have anything to do with the magazine thing not being positioned quite right? I know when I was putting it back together I had it oriented the right way but wasn't quite sure exactly if it was supposed to go into the action before the stock went on or after or if it didn't matter. (The other 700s I've had it usually did a good job of staying in the action. Didn't come off along with the stock.)


You may box should be loose and not binding when the stock and action are properly torqued. If you can't wiggle it around a little bit after everything is together you probably pinched it, and that can cause problems.

I usually put the box in the action cut out, lower the stock onto that then install the bottom metal and make sure it's all aligned and not pinching before installing the screws.
 
Sway bar bushings are worn..........


That's your sound/rub

You may box should be loose and not binding when the stock and action are properly torqued. If you can't wiggle it around a little bit after everything is together you probably pinched it, and that can cause problems.

I usually put the box in the action cut out, lower the stock onto that then install the bottom metal and make sure it's all aligned and not pinching before installing the screws.

Sway bar! :D

That's how I put the mag box in also. It is finnicky. I can squeeze the sides a little and get it into the groove in the action then put the stock down over it. Carefully, so it doesn't pop out of place. I assume that's the correct way. If I try to put the action in the stock and then put the box in from the bottom I can't get it into the opening in the action. With everything in place i notice it does wiggle a teeny bit inside there between the action and bottom metal.

Just for the heck of it I tried it without the box in there and I still got the rubbing so that's not the cause.

I'm thinking the problem (if it really is a problem) is in the torque. I tried what illinoisburt said with the rear torqued to 45 and the front 30 or 35 and it still rube. The numbers I'm getting for torque setting are all over the time I'm seeing recommendations for anywhere from 15-18 to 55-60 lbs for a wood stock. The higher end looks suspicious to me. I don't want to break anything. And of course I have no idea how tight it was torqued when I got it or how it affected accuracy. I was only doing a function check when I fired it -- didn't even have a scope on it yet.
 
I actually use 45/40 on pretty much everything besides my Ruger Americans which dictate 60/60, and small receiver guns like my .22s and 527, which get 25/20.


Not that any of that is "right" (besides the Americans, cause they toll me to!)

This one's a long action 6.5x55mm Swede cartridge. I've tried a bunch of different torques but haven't got it to stop rubbing. I think that may just be the way it is. ::shrug::
 
This one's a long action 6.5x55mm Swede cartridge. I've tried a bunch of different torques but haven't got it to stop rubbing. I think that may just be the way it is. ::shrug::
It's supposed to be touching. The front of the stock is made to contact barrel when assembled correctly. If you look at the stock out of the rifle you will see a raised rectangular section in the barrel channel.
 
It's supposed to be touching. The front of the stock is made to contact barrel when assembled correctly. If you look at the stock out of the rifle you will see a raised rectangular section in the barrel channel.

As long as it's supposed to be touching I'm going to guess the rubbing noise it makes is normal. I wish i would have noticed it before. It would have saved me a lot of frustration lol
 
Also with all the futzing around I've been doing I'm glad I put the hex action screws on there. I think the slotted ones that came with it would have been completely wrecked in no time at all especially torquing them down hard
 
Invest in proper screwdriver for gun work, and use it only for gun work.

I have the Wheeler torque driver and a Craftsman handle to run the bits from it.

Don't let others use it either.

That way you ALWAYS have good and proper bits.

After watching supposed bow and gun techs at various shops half arse stuff..............some people should not be allowed to own screwdrivers.

Seriously.
 
Like others have said, the Rem 700 factory wood (and Rynite) stocks have a pressure pad near the tip.
If it shoots good as is, fine.
If not, then that is the first thing to be changed.
 
Invest in proper screwdriver for gun work, and use it only for gun work.

I have the Wheeler torque driver and a Craftsman handle to run the bits from it.
Don't let others use it either.
That way you ALWAYS have good and proper bits.
After watching supposed bow and gun techs at various shops half arse stuff..............some people should not be allowed to own screwdrivers.
Seriously.

For sure. I've got the Wheeler FAT torque wrench along with a big set of bits and drivers from Brownell's. One of my first purchases when I really started working on guns.
 
Sometimes it's the easy solutions. I put a 1" square of that blue painters tape with a teeny dab of grease inside the stock where it makes contact with the barrel. The action and magazine box and bottom metal went in and I torqued it down to 35 inch pounds as recommended by Remington and all is well.
 
What’s causing that rubbing noise is you pushing on it. If you put it together correctly and it shoots fine, it’s.....fine.

Patient: “Doc it hurts when I do this”

Doc: “so stop doing that”
 
I use some electrical tape under the magazine box to position the follower spring correctly when reassembling the rifle. Without that, sometimes the spring gets between the magazine bottom and the inside of the stock recess, causing the box bottom to not be properly located.

I don't like a barrel pad at the end of the stock, so remove it and float the barrel at least 3/32". That helps to keep sling pressure from moving the POI. Of course, I glass-bed all my actions and a couple of inches ahead of the recoil plate. Bottom and muzzle side of the plate should be clear of bedding by using a couple of layers of masking tape on those surfaces when placing epoxy bedding compound.
 
I don't like a barrel pad at the end of the stock, so remove it and float the barrel at least 3/32".

i've glass bedded the actions and floated the barrels of dozens of Remington 700 rifles. Only one, my own .22-250 from the Remington Custom shop, shot worse than before bedding. Replaced the bump with a piece of dowel rod and all was well.
 
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