Polishing mating surfaces on a SxS

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Tallinar

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I recently picked up a Stoeger Uplander SxS shotgun with intent to slick it up as an amateur gunsmithing project.

I'm currently trying to polish up the mating surfaces where the forearm pivots off the receiver under the rib. I have a Dremel tool with some simple felt pads, and some red polishing compound (the stuff that comes with the Dremel kit). I spent some time working on these surfaces this evening, but don't really notice much of a difference on the surface. There are definitely some spots where I can feel a little more smoothness, but overall it's hard to tell that I did anything.

I can't tell if I am just being too delicate, or if maybe I need a more abrasive tool or compound to buff this thing out. It's definitely possible that I am just not applying enough buffing pressure, too afraid to damage something. I'll be honest, part of the reason I am doing this is to try to grow in my mechanical ability and confidence.

Can anyone suggest a good way to try to smooth out these kinds of metal surfaces? If you use a Dremel tool, what kind of head do you use? Or do you just go at it with sandpaper?

Thanks.
 
Try some 200 grit Clover and a hard wooden dowel in your drill press....engine turn it. Reface the dowel often.

Don't expect miracles with that shotty.

Heavy tool marks cannot be eliminated because the parts are riding on the hills not the valleys of those tool marks. By eliminating tool marks you basically made the gun loose. But... Smooth to some degree.

Recently, I got Charter .44 that was rough as the shavin' stubble on a hairy gal. Unlike that gal, dry firing a bunch smoothed it out just fine, and now its as smooth as any Smith or old Colt . I did get a chafed finger but it was worth it. From the revolver I mean....
 
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The red polish that comes with your Dremel kit is relatively ineffective on harder metals. I'd suggest "Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish". You can probably find it at a hardware store or an auto parts store. I've used it with the Dremel polishing wheels and it works very well. Though, I'd start the job with 600 grit sandpaper and/or #0000 steel wool, working up to 2000 grit BEFORE going with the Mother's.
 
Use a thin layer of grease; that should allow the surfaces to mate like they are slicker. Otherwise, be very careful about polishing TOO much. Mating surfaces need to not have gaps. Go slow and think of it like playing chess, not checkers. If I understand you correctly, it sounds like your polishing the knuckles; jeweler's rouge works well.
 
What I normally use and recommend to customers who have SXS or O/U break-open shotguns, or rifles, is to apply a smear of an anti-seize compound on the rear face of the forearm metal and then the front face of the action that mates with the forearm metal.
This action will prevent those "like metals" from galling when they pivot against one another, and especially if there has been no lube and the metal is untreated. The anti-seize that I prefer has copper dust impregnated in the compound and that copper dust will also act to help prevent the metal from "seizing against each other".
Does it look as though the metal faces of those mating parts have a "smearing" look about them?
 
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