How Do I Use My Red Dot Sight Correctly?

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Scrod314

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Hello... Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do I look through my rear sight, then the red dot, then the front sight? Or do I just look through red dot and front sight to co-witness? It seems like I should just look through the red dot and then the front sight. My SR-22 rifle has a rear iron sights that seems to give some magnification? It distorts the red dot when I look through the rear iron sights, then the red dot, then the front iron sights.
 
Hello... Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do I look through my rear sight, then the red dot, then the front sight? Or do I just look through red dot and front sight to co-witness? It seems like I should just look through the red dot and then the front sight. My SR-22 rifle has a rear iron sights that seems to give some magnification? It distorts the red dot when I look through the rear iron sights, then the red dot, then the front iron sights.
You shouldn't be using either the front or rear sight at all when using the red dot.
 
Hold up here. We had to qualify with red dot sights when I was in the infantry and the instructions I was given dictate there's a little more to it then what the other members here are suggesting.

A "Red Dot" sight is a Close Combat Optic (CCO). The idea is if you're engaging targets in close combat (within 50 meters) you can just paint the center mass of your target with the dot, squeeze the trigger, and hit it. This is useful for kicking in doors in Iraq and shooting up bad guys. If you try to do close combat drills with traditional iron sights, even the best folks usually have a slightly slower reaction time because their eyes have to focus into threading the front sight through the rear one. Even if you just rely on the front sight, it's not nearly as accurate as the CCO. This is why you have a colored "vein" on an ACOG scope. This way you get the best of both worlds -- a telescopic sight that magnifies distance targets and a CCO to engage targets at closer ranges.

That said, this is what I was taught when I was being trained for war with a CCO in OSUT:
  • You should adjust the dot on the CCO to be as light as possible. A lot of people's immediate impression is to jack that sucker nice and bright. However, by setting it too bright, you're obscuring your target and needlessly draining the battery.
  • You are supposed to cowitness with the sights if you're shooting at greater distances. So if you're engaging a target at 100 meters or so, the CCO can be on, but dull enough that you can see through it towards your target. Relying on the CCO alone at those distances will not give you as accurate performance as disciplined use of the iron sights and Rifle Marksmanship Fundamentals.
  • Many soldiers took the "Honey Comb" out of the CCO as to give a better sight picture through the optic. We were encouraged by our drill sergeants to do this. I understand not every CCO has this but some of the ones I've used certainly do.
My unit was later trained by The President's 100 on advanced marksmanship. So I'm not saying the people posting before me are wrong, but this is just what I was taught in 2008 (as I've heard some Marines saying they're being taught not to use Kentucky Windage). Things might have changed since then.
 
Well, I think maybe the OP may be asking one of two questions that he needs to clarify which one he's asking. That being said, no question that remains unanswered is a "dumb question". Hopefully one of the above posts answers whichever was asked.
 
OK, adding to the newbie input: I just added my first red dot, a Bushnell TRS-25, to my 10/22, and need to learn how to use it. I hope to get to the range soon for zeroing. I understand that the RD replaces the regular sights (which are no longer visible, being covered by the RD base). My question: do you need to have the reticle centered in the lens for proper aim, or as long as the red dot is on the target, can it be anywhere in the lens area?

Thank you.

p.s. DANG those screw-hole plug screws on the 10/22 are tiny!
 
My question: do you need to have the reticle centered in the lens for proper aim, or as long as the red dot is on the target, can it be anywhere in the lens area?
The nice thing about a red dot is that even if your eye is not lined up the same, the dot will still be on the target. So, if the dot is not exactly centered in the sight, you are still good to go.
 
Well, I think maybe the OP may be asking one of two questions that he needs to clarify which one he's asking. That being said, no question that remains unanswered is a "dumb question". Hopefully one of the above posts answers whichever was asked.
Looked to me like the OP was asking if he was supposed to line up the front sight or the rear sight with his red dot. The answer is, neither one. He should be completely ignoring the front and rear sights when using the red dot. For longer distance, iron sights can work better. When using the irons, the red dot should be ignored.
 
Actually, to be more precise, for the benefit of the OP, the red dot should TURNED OFF. ;)
On the range, that's fine. In real life, or training for real life, transitioning from irons to red dot and back often needs to happen quickly, making turning the dot on and off repeatedly impractical or impossible.
 
That's why I specified "for the benefit of the OP" who is learning something new. Trying to learn to use iron sights and a red dot at the same time is an exercise in frustration. You learn to use the one, then you learn to use the other, then you can put them together.
 
I just added my first red dot, a Bushnell TRS-25, to my 10/22, and need to learn how to use it.
Range report: sighting it in.
Went to an indoor range, 25 yard limit, for first event with the new gear. Planned ahead to have a proper size screwdriver for the adjustments. Was a lot of fun working with the new sight. I was surprised how small a movement a single click is on the adjustments. I reached a point where i was centered vertically, but kept shooting to the right, no matter how I adjusted the sight (no, I did not hit the limit). I blame this on needing to improve my trigger pull, combined with a known need for new spectacles. Next step will be full distance at an outdoor range. (And an appointment with the eye doctor!)

And this experience has me already thinking about adding a HiRise TRS-25 to my currently stock M&P 15 Sport basic AR.
 
<snip>... I reached a point where i was centered vertically, but kept shooting to the right, no matter how I adjusted the sight (no, I did not hit the limit). I blame this on needing to improve my trigger pull,...<snip>
This phenomenon can be produced by an optic that's not perfectly levelled on the mount; you might want to double-check your level.
 
This phenomenon can be produced by an optic that's not perfectly levelled on the mount; you might want to double-check your level.
The TRS25 is connected to the mount. You can't turn the optic.
Rail is screwed to top of rifle, TRS-25 is clamped to rail, with no adjustment other than tightening the clamp. Remember, the TRS-25 is an under $100 3 MOA starter sight, not a high precision competition sight.

Well, I suppose I could eye-ball how close to perfectly vertical I am holding the rifle. In the meantime, that eye doctor appointment is two weeks off.

(Going back to my early (1980) computer experience, I kept typing TRS-80 instead of -25!)
 
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Rail is screwed to top of rifle, TRS-25 is clamped to rail, with no adjustment other than tightening the clamp.
Doesn't signify ...

Well, I suppose I could eye-ball how close to perfectly vertical I am holding the rifle.
Yes, do that. I've had a new optic with a canted reticle that I discovered by eyeballing it. Sent it in and got it fixed.
 
Some red dots have selectible reticle displays; I'm not familiar with yours. Of course, if all you have is a dot or a circle, you can't.
The Bushnell TRS-25 is a very basic model, and the reticle is only a dot that gets bigger when you increase the brightness (11 levels - is that an homage to Spinal Tap?).
 
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