My MP-30 Build Disaster: Don't Let This Happen to You.

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I didn't see that he had altered a serial number. Maybe I missed it, or maybe the original didn't have a number.
At the very least, gather up every ounce of evidence you have, and your entire correspondence at this point should be "I sent you gold, you sent back garbage. You owe me for all of it."
If the immediate response isn't to fix it, contact everyone applicable. Mistakes or a missed QC point are one thing, this is both fraudulent and openly insulting.
It may or may not have one, but defacing or obscuring is as bad as altering it and that's the part that should be made clear to shady gunsmith. The guy with the krylon special has all the power and ability to make this other's guy's life a living hell.
So, if the Austrian parts kit has been substantially altered with counterfeit markings, that's an actual crime.
If there happens to be an identifying number that has been altered or otherwise obscured, that's an actual crime. And that's what needs to be gotten across to shady gunsmith. 'I have the evidence of your criminal behavior in my possession and I am going to turn your ass in unless you make it right financially. Reimburse me for all costs and the cost of the parts kit, or return the original parts kit, or the ATF will hear of this.'

Also, this assumes the shady gunsmith has an FFL that permits manufacturing. By welding up the receiver and making it ready to use as part of a business transaction, this person has manufactured a firearm. Also of note is that when you manufacture a firearm, you have to serialize it (or it must already have one) to be inside the law. If the gunsmith failed to do this, he's in violation of the law. It sounds nitpicky, but these rules apply for the protection of everyone.
https://www.atf.gov/file/11711/download

Basically, if shady gunsmith hasn't dotted the i's and crossed the t's, he could be in a world of hurt if the owner of the ruined parts kit wanted to push the issue. Speaking for myself, I'd be happy with a full refund for all the labor and shipping costs plus the cost of the parts kit that has been destroyed or the return of the original parts kit.
 
In situations like this, all a potential customer has to go on is the smith's reputation. According to the OP, the guy came highly recommended. So the OP did his due diligence. The way things turned out was unexpected. Everybody lost out, both the customer and the "smith." The customer lost his parts kit, but the "smith" lost his entire business.
 
So. I took this issue back to the Weapons Guild Forum. There was a lot of squabbling. The convo was heavily censored on one side. I snapped at some people, some people snapped at me. Boring and unproductive for the most part.

Eventually Karvasale showed up to answer though. Here is his statement.


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« NITEGUNNER - Reply #25 on: Today at 08:32:49 PM »


I will make one post statement about this build.


I received this kit without and information from Craig on fit and finish of the MP 30. He sent the parts shown and I used all of them to build his MP 30.
That meant the receiver was demilled and became a reweld not a machined repair section so he could have his original parts. Rewelding will have blemishes as most builders know. Also with the different metal used in welding, bluing is hard to match. The receiver pieces were bead blasted like most welding pieces and demilled edges clean. BTW the bolt and striker system with the striker recoil rod and spring have been used in all my MP34 conversion without any complaints on looks or function.


The top cover is original from his kit and as most MP30 have no crest or J hook safety at the rear.
The trigger guard was original and like a MP 30 has a safety latch that blocks the sear for the safe position thus no J hook on the top cover was needed.

The shroud was intact with a barrel and a 9X23 magwell. Since I had no instructions on finish I also bead blasted it for refinishing. Marking the weapon with the caliber is an ATF requirement so I marked it on the magwell so the correct caliber was used. Later on I ask him if he want to use 9mm Luger instead of the 9X23 and said I can shim the magwell to fit 9mm Luger magazines. He agreed and I modified it.


On the stock. I received the stock as shown in the lower picture he posted. I did not touch the stock in anyway except to remove the butt plate for refinishing. I told him he had a crack in the stock and I was not going to mess with it because it was a beautiful fishtail stock. He told me he believed the formal owner tried refinishing to clear up the scratch and nicks.


About the bolt handle. I reweld the cocking handle in after semi auto conversion of the bolt and striker system. Most of you know that bolts are hardened and even after annealing sometime the weld do not hold. That was the case here. I did a couple magazines of test firing which most likely weakened the weld. The MP30 ran with no problems.


I did refinish it in DuraCoat semi satin black. The pictures of the MP 30 he posted show how he scraped off my finish looking for bluing and making it look like that. I asked him to call me so we could talk about all this and he refused.


That's my side of the story and will not get into anymore of a pissing contest. He can still contact me and my offer to him on refinishing still stands. Bluing is not an option.

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Here is my reply.

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SCRATCH - « Reply #28 on: Today at 10:59:25 PM »

Note: I have attempted to change my profile according to Pryotex' instructions, but cannot seem to find the "Look and Layout" tab described. We'll have to make due.


Nitegunner. So your defense of what happened to my original parts...I'm just going to take your word for it at this point because they have been so drastically altered that I have no way of saying at this time whether or not they actually are...is because I did not give you instructions otherwise.

You beadblasted off my original blued finish because I didn't tell you not to?

Did you also cover virtually every part of my kit with bogus and incorrect arsenal marks because I didn't specifically tell you not to?

Why would I ever think I needed to tell a supposed professional not to take a ridiculous and destructive action against the parts he has been hired to work on? If you take your car to the mechanic to have the transmission worked on, do you feel you have to explain to the mechanic not to do rudimentary and obviously destructive things to it, such as not crack the engine block, or run your car without oil, or go over your hood with a belt-sander? And if your mechanic does these things, does that absolve him of the responsibility of damaging your car, just because you never imagined he would do something so unprofessional and destructive?

We specifically discussed the things I wanted done with this gun. I wanted a barrel replacement. A semi-auto conversion, including reweld receiver and bolt modification. A caliber conversion from 9 Steyr to 9 Luger. That's it. That's all I asked for, that's all I paid for, and that's all I expected to be done.

Nobody said anything about stripping off the bluing. Nobody told you to cover my gun in bogus markings. Nobody asked you to hose it down in spray paint. We never talked about that. I didn't pay you for any of that. You just took it upon yourself. Those actions are entirely your responsibility.

And in truth, if you had not done those things, we wouldn't be here right now. I'd have been disappointed by the quality of the work, yes. But that, at least would have been a thing I might have worked on remedying. The bolt appears functional, and the handle can be fixed by my own local gunsmith. The disk shaped recoil rod platform looks janky as hell, but my smith and I could easily make a better version to replace it that will actually lock into the receiver. The receiver itself...I don't know what can be done about that, but even that isn't the end of the world. As I said, for $1250 I expected higher quality, but I'm not angry about it.

But the damage to my original parts, damage that you could have avoided by simply leaving them the hell alone? The untouched pre-Anschluss Austrian police gun that had survived nearly 100 years with it's original blued finish almost entirely intact, now reduced to being humped-up phoney-marked piece of bare metal? Destroying the very reason I bought this kit in the first place? That is damage that can never be fixed. That is not acceptable. There is no excuse for it.

And what you're doing is basically refusing to take responsibility for the damage that you chose to inflict on my original kit, unasked. Just an offer to Bondo it up and throw some more paint on it, and when that is refused, oh well. I guess it's my problem.

Is this the way you treat all the customers who entrust their kits to you? Or am I just that extra special?

It is incredibly frustrating to be treated this way. To have worked hard and spent money on some extraordinary piece of history, with the hope of preserving and restoring it to it's former glory, only to have the person you entrust to work on it treat it so flippantly and with such negligence. It's a genuine shame. And even if you don't see why this is a big deal, trust me when I tell you that other people will.

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Dang man this situation stinks. I hope you are able to resolve it. Still think if all else fails sue him. Might not even have to take it that far. Hope you get it worked out.
 
He's offered to repay 1/2 my build fee to pay for the waffenampt welding and rebluing. I'm just going to take it. The kit can never be made original again, but this will cover the expense of cosmetic restoration, which is all that can be done now. The receiver and internals situation is one I'm just going to have to pay for out of pocket, but it's better than nothing. I can look in the mirror, say I didn't totally get screwed, and get on with my day without any more of this unpleasantness.
 
I'm on Weaponsguild, and just read your thread.

To be fair (and only to be fair), you did break a bunch of rules, and don't seem to have made your dream all that clear to nitegunner.

I can't understand why anyone would put fake markings on anything. That's.... bad. I'll just leave it at that. However, cut with a hacksaw and a grinder, of course! How do you work on sheet metal? Many people would be satisfied with this somewhat shoddy workmanship. Others would actually finish the job by de-burring and truing the cut. On the other hand, you don't see many of my posts on WG or even here as actually building something because I'm too caught up in making things perfect to get to shoot my projects.

However, that's over. And you accepted his partial refund, so legal action is probably not forthcoming. So, what are you going to do now, now that you have to move on? Are you going to leave it as-is, with that paint all over it?

Here's a suggestion, worth about what you paid for it. How about learning to fix it yourself? Do you enjoy metalwork? If you rust blue it, that thing could turn out beautiful. Burrs can be taken care of, and if you are not hurrying to get it done, it will probably be gorgeous. Sure, he should have done that already, but that ship has sailed; what are you going to do now? It won't be original, but it could still be beautiful.

And you should keep us updated if you do decide to work on it.
 
However, that's over. And you accepted his partial refund, so legal action is probably not forthcoming. So, what are you going to do now, now that you have to move on? Are you going to leave it as-is, with that paint all over it?

Thanks for asking this.

The damage to the original kit parts, in terms of financial value and historic integrity, is significant, and I'm not going to recoup my loss on that no matter what happens. A big part of the reason I bought this gun over other options was because of the excellent state of the bluing and it's original preservation as a rare pre-war police gun. The other was the fishtail stock, which is just so rare and graceful. Anyway, that's water under the bridge now.

Leaving it in it's current state is not an option for me. I can't have it around my house like this, as pure dissatisfaction and unhappiness haunting my gun safe. And I cannot stand to pass along substandard guns to others, at least not without listing a ton of caveats that read like the end of a drug commercial, and thereby reduce the attractiveness and value of the firearm to prospective buyers. So the gun must be fixed up before I can even consider either keeping or selling it, even if doing so turns out to not be cost-effective. I figure the refund will go entirely into fixing the external cosmetics. I'll cover whatever work can be done to improve the internals out-of-pocket, and call it a learning experience.

Once the damage has been mitigated, I'll just have to try to shift my perspective on it. and see if I can still appreciate it as a historic artifact of some kind, even in it's reduced state. Externally, it will still be a magnificent looking gun; the MP-30/MP-34 really did earn it's reputation as the Rolls Royce of subguns, and the front end and top cover should still exhibit this quality. If I can't make the transition from regarding it with a head-shake and a sigh, at least it will be saleable to someone who wants a cool-looking historic-y gun, which is not currently the case.


Here's a suggestion, worth about what you paid for it. How about learning to fix it yourself? Do you enjoy metalwork? If you rust blue it, that thing could turn out beautiful. Burrs can be taken care of, and if you are not hurrying to get it done, it will probably be gorgeous. Sure, he should have done that already, but that ship has sailed; what are you going to do now? It won't be original, but it could still be beautiful.

A week ago, I would have responded to this by saying I believe professional jobs should be left to professionals if you want professional quality.

I'm not saying that anymore, of course.

I'm not a metalwork guy. I do have a local gunsmith SOT whose skills have impressed me and whose work I trust. I'll talk to him first.

I've done rust bluing in the past with nice results, including on an MP-28 I had built a couple of years back. I considered it here, but then it was brought to my attention that if I have the fake waffenampt welded over, it will be a challenge to match the bluing of the repair to the rest of the steel. That sort of job is beyond me. I'm going to have to look into what my options are. It is possible it might get condemned to wearing those bogus waffenampt if the bluing can't be blended. I'm just going to have to consult with people who know better.


And you should keep us updated if you do decide to work on it.

I'll do so. Hopefully it will be one of those "Wow, what an improvment!" sort of things, rather than a "well, this was the best we could manage under the circumstances."
 
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I considered it here, but then it was brought to my attention that if I have the fake waffenampt welded over, it will be a challenge to match the bluing of the repair to the rest of the steel. That sort of job is beyond me. I'm going to have to look into what my options are. It is possible it might get condemned to wearing those bogus waffenampt if the bluing can't be blended. I'm just going to have to consult with people who know better.

Regarding welding...

If the fill metal matches the base metal, and the heat treatment is similar, bluing will be similar. Bluing is a simple ("simple" means different things to different people, so YMMV) chemical reaction between a ferrous metal and oxygen. As long as you don't go to a welder who doesn't understand what you are doing with it, it should be able to be blued. And personally, I'd take a blotchy blue to fake markings.

And don't let whoever welds it dress the welds without knowing what you want! Find someone to TIG weld it at low amperage so there isn't a whole bunch of penetration (actually, some MIG welders might be able to do this well), but then it needs to be filed down to be flush, but not rounded. Whoever does the work, and you, need to think a bit about how the arm was manufactured. Usually lines are straight, square, with corners broken slightly.

The big challenge is going to be figuring out what the base metal is.
 
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Mauser lover is correct. Whoever does weld up the fake markings will have to try to match as closely as they can, the type of steel. My guess is you won't be able to find out what steel was originally used nearly 100 years ago but you might be in luck. Chances are good its just a low carbon mild steel since fancy 11 herbs and spices blends are a fairly modern invention, so whoever welds up the fake marks will be able to get close with a steady hand and a TIG welder.
But yeah, the bluing won't be exact. There is another option which is after the receiver is repaired and safe to fire, you can heat the whole thing up with a torch to between 500-600 degrees Freedomheit and dunk it in an oil bath. Canola oil is pretty good for this and it will blacken the metal and might hide the difference in steel since you're not chemically rusting it with bluing, but rather are carbonizing the outer surface. It's not a beautiful blued finish and never will be, but since the oil doesn't really care about the steel alloy underneath, you could have a functional MP-30 with a passable refinish and a sad history.
The ragged edges inside look like he tried to fix his welds with a Dremel and cut too deep and didn't feel like welding it back up. Not to take the hack's side, but his (or anyones) welding up the receiver would have made a matching bluing impossible.

I would absolutely look for an identifying serial number as he would have had to serialize it or leave the existing one alone. If you don't find one, you've got him right where you want him. Call the ATF and rat him out if he doesn't refund your parts kit and the money he took from you.
 
My guess as well is low carbon mild steel. It'll probably match bluing close enough that under a light coat of oil most people will never even see it.

In this era, most firearm parts were carburized to harden them if they needed it. Is it possible it isn't just mild steel? Yes. Is it likely? I don't think so.
 
Here’s my experience with gun smiths and custom builders:

With regards to requests like yours, there are very few that can realize a customer’s dream and produce exactly what the customer wants. That is why the greats cost what they do.

Really great gunsmiths know when to say, “no, I can’t do that.” As in, they lack a particular skill set to produce the desired result you want or, “no, what you want can’t be done because...”

What the gun world is full of, is gunsmiths who claim they know what they’re doing and they have the photos shot with their Jitterbug flip phones to prove it.

I know your pain. My honest assessment is that you’re not going to get your money back on your investment. The guy was in over his head, couldn’t do what you wanted, but tried to anyway. I’m sure he’ll talk of his many satisfied customers. Everyone on that forum- even though they’ve never met him in real life- will say how awesome he is. He may even say he’d never lie, because he became a Christian 10 years ago. He may never have had ill intentions... like that lady that tried to touch up paint that Renaissance painting of Christ a number of years ago. The results, like that painting, speak for themselves.

But at the end of the day, he messed your gun up.

Sorry you have to deal with this.
 
When I was a young man, and this happened to me, I would be tempted to make a road trip and invite this fine gentleman to lunch. You know a couple of knuckle sandwiches.
As someone that collected WW II memorabilia for years you have my deepest condolences.
You, sir, would be much more lenient than me.
 
Consider Doug Turnbull for a full cosmetic restoration. Top notch work. Expensive but they've restored guns in much worse shape into pure gun artwork.
 
My goodness, what a shame. I do have one thought regarding the welding of the arsenal marks. Now, let me preface this by stating that I am in no way a gunsmith or even knowledgeable of firearms from this era, but I do my fair share of mig/tig welding and metal fabrication on a hobbyist level, so I'll throw this idea out there for you or your 'smiths consideration. Would it be possible to purchase a small, inexpensive component from an mp-30 or mp-34 made of the same material as that which is to be welded? A quick Google search showed an mp-34 magazine catch for about $30 for instance. Your welder may be able to cut something like this into a size suitable for filler material.

Maybe this is feasible, or maybe it's a stupid idea all together. It's the first thing I thought of when the suggestion of matching material and re-blueing came up so I thought I'd put it out there.

Good luck with your restoration, I'm sure that it can be at least mostly returned to its former glory in the hands of a truly skilled craftsman.
 
My goodness, what a shame. I do have one thought regarding the welding of the arsenal marks. Now, let me preface this by stating that I am in no way a gunsmith or even knowledgeable of firearms from this era, but I do my fair share of mig/tig welding and metal fabrication on a hobbyist level, so I'll throw this idea out there for you or your 'smiths consideration. Would it be possible to purchase a small, inexpensive component from an mp-30 or mp-34 made of the same material as that which is to be welded? A quick Google search showed an mp-34 magazine catch for about $30 for instance. Your welder may be able to cut something like this into a size suitable for filler material.

Maybe this is feasible, or maybe it's a stupid idea all together. It's the first thing I thought of when the suggestion of matching material and re-blueing came up so I thought I'd put it out there.

You sir, are on the right track! Yes, it is possible to do something like that. Unfortunately, the magazine catch may be from a different chunk of stock than the marked pieces, from the pictures, it looks like the magwell and the top of the receiver are what are marked. However, because I believe that the steel used for manufacture was just whatever "nothing special" steel they had on hand, the magazine catch may well be from the same pile of "nothing special" stock they had.

Back then, mild steel was not what we think of now, A36 or 1018 etc. Steel was often just... steel. Not graded according to specific chemical composition to the extent that we can now. So, steel from a mine someplace in Sweden processed in Sweeden was going to be ever-so-slightly different than from a mine and processing plant in say the Ruhr valley. So... where did the steel come from? Well, it probably doesn't actually matter. Just because the steel is a little different, doesn't mean it won't rust basically the same. That's what really matters, bluing is just rust, and if it rusts the same, the bluing will look the same.

Now they did have a better understanding of metallic chemistry than I do, and did have divisions between the major groups of steels. For instance, the bolt on Mausers is not (to my knowledge, ever) blued. However, an SMG receiver, since that is what we actually care about here, is not subjected to the same pressures as a Mauser bolt, so there would be no need to substitute the more expensive steel for the "nothing special" stock. Mauser bolts do not blue very well. I've tried.

All this to say... probably ALL of the "nothing special" steel will work just fine as filler metal. Mild steel fill rod probably will too, but I suppose if you want to be even more sure, a period part will probably offer more assurance.
 
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