Wheeler Engineering Professional Reticle Leveling System - Anybody use one?

I have not. I typically use a pair of machined wedges of the same angle forming an adjustable width block with parallel surfaces to gently wedge between the top of the rail and the flat bottom of the scope forcing the scope level with the top of the rail. Obviously a continuous rail and flat bottom scope is required.

I am tempted to buy the following gadget from Fix it Sticks. I love their tools, especially there torque limiters and this seems like a slick way to level a scope. Though is suffers the same limitation as my double wedge method require a continuous rail and flat bottom section of scope to work with.

https://store.fixitsticks.com/products/scope-jack

Watch the video at the link above.

I use a small level to set the gun in the vise, and level the scope. Then I use a laser bore sighter to bore scope @ 25+ yrds. With the laser setup I take a reading before I remove the scope so I know where It needs to go back too. I check the alignment at 100 yrds with a plumb bob.

I use my rifle cleaning vise, a small level, a kitchen window, and a plumb bob 100 ft away. No gadget's necessary.

If you don't own a plumb bob, use the corner of a neighbor's house. Level the gun in the vise (either receiver or rings), and level the reticle vs the bob, while tightening the rings.

edwardware said:

I use my rifle cleaning vise, a small level, a kitchen window, and a plumb bob 100 ft away. No gadget's necessary.

If you don't own a plumb bob, use the corner of a neighbor's house. Level the gun in the vise (either receiver or rings), and level the reticle vs the bob, while tightening the rings.

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That's assuming the house was built plumb and has not moved. You haven't been around many home builders. Most use a min 1/8" tolerance.

Just get you a line and a weight and hang it up where you can see it. Let gravity do its thing. I have a 1/8" white nylon cord I use on my 100 yrd target. Heavier the weight the less likely wind will move it.

Used to do plumb bob method . Then bought the wheeler on sale it works just as well.

I use one with great satisfaction. I mount scopes for me and my buddies and always get good feedback. It is totally dependent upon the rifle having a flat, true surface as the basis of the measurements, like the action or the bases, etc. The plumb bob is a great way to verify the work.

A TV dinner tray, a Tipton cleaning holder, a 6" carpenters level and the curtain pull cord as a plumb line.


I'm cheap.

I use the similar Level-Level-Level kit from Wheeler. Costs less than the "Professional" kit and much easier to fit in a range bag if I want. Does the same job. Just two tiny level bulbs with magnetic bases. One fits in the bolt raceway of your rifle and the other on top of the scope. Haven't had any issues with it.

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-leveler

I have both of the Wheeler offerings. The Professional model, although more expensive is the better one. It has the level that clamps to the barrel and is much easier to use than the magnetic one that sticks to the receiver. I bought the Wheeler kits after trying everything else, from plumb bobs to rigs that look like anti-aircraft sights. The only scopes they don't work on are external adjusters or scopes that have crooked reticules, both rarities these days.

792mauser said:

A TV dinner tray, a Tipton cleaning holder, a 6" carpenters level and the curtain pull cord as a plumb line.


I'm cheap.

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That’s some funny chit right there LOL!!

The method I used to level a scope was first level my kitchen table,place scope in the rings I wanted to use tighten screws so snug but still capable of rotation. Put a torpedo level on hight adjustment cap turn scope till bubble is centered then tighten screws . Don't laugh the above worked the only adjustment after that was eye relief. I have used the plumb bob method in the past.

My neighbors would get a kick out of seeing me aim a gun at their house.

Blue68f100 said:

I check the alignment at 100 yrds with a plumb bob.

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Question about distance when using a plumb bob: is using a plumb bob at 100 yards distance better than at hallway length? I mean, plumb is plumb, no matter how near or far, correct? You could use Day-Glo paracord at 100 yards so you can see it, or you could use white button hole thread at 25 feet, as far as I can reason. Am I doing it rong?

All depends on how much power your optics are. Most of my target rifles have 24x-42x, my hunting rifles have less. With my aging eyes I need all the help I can get. With 24x you can see a 1/8" nylon cord very easy at 100 yrds. With a 12x you may be struggling to see the line, lighting and conditions all come into play. If you have heavy cross hairs you will have to be closer. I've used 25 yrds many times. Just make sure you follow the cross hairs full length, it will show off at the extremes. Some times using a color line helps in low light. Then I check it on target at 100 yrds by changing the elevation. I normally do the box test with my good optics to make sure every thing is tracking right.

I use to use the different ways mentioned here to save a buck until I decided to try one of these. It really works well, saves time and is easy to use.

I've used the EXD engineering tool to first align the scope with the barrel and then adjust for cant.
REF: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ers/vertical-reticle-instrument-prod6097.aspx

Adjusting for cant is easy: with the tool attached and the rifle/scope level just hang a white clothes line rope from something 10 yards or so away and run the scope's elevation up and down. Get that vertical crosshair centered on the rope for +/- 20MOA or more of adjustment and you're good to go.

The tool can be used for round barrels and flat tops such as those with a picatinny rail.
(Hint you disassemble the two slides and invert it so the flat part of the longer rectangular rail is on the bottom)
It's light, accurate and if you have a rock and a rope you can easily check your scope in the field.

Once I get the scope where I want it I can then re-attach the tool and add an Accuracy 1st level indicator so I can ensure the rifle is at the level position as specified by the tool.
REF: https://accuracy1st.com/collections/scope-levels

It takes a bit of care to use but I have had great luck using this tool and have had minimal issues having to adjust for windage even on extreme elevation changes.

I have no idea how people we managed to get scopes level until someone dreamed up the level sets available today. Just lucky I guess.

I still use my MK 1 eyeball and the edge of a garage door. The LGS owner sets rifles on his holder sitting on the counter and lines them up with a corner on the bank building across the street. Outdated, low tech way to do things in this age I know but it seems to work. Someone need to dream up a computer app to do it for the younger generations.

I just eyeball it and use any level corner ,string for back up, sometimes I detect an aberration or optical delusion sometimes after and need a redo,but this worked for me for years with 99% accuracy.Any house that's standing should be level enough ,if in doubt ,look at another!
I gotta say,that this HAS become a real problem as the years go by,I never knew how hard it is to do this, I seem to be,with a few others ,some kinda prodigy ! Lol

It's not that expensive, and the barrel bubble mount is convenient. Mounting is still subjective. Your best level reference is still going to be some external object. I use my neighbor's garage walls. Also, keep in mind that turret caps aren't always necessarily perfectly aligned with the scope's reticle. Your eyeball, local gravity, and some object you know to be vertical or horizontal need to confirm the bubble level.

I use Eyeball, Mk I, Mod. 0 But I work at a job that being able to notice the slightest angular difference is beneficial. It also makes me shudder every time I look at a picture SWMBO has hung. Consistently to the left, at about 4 degrees off.

Such devices are handy for verifying things are on the level. I have used them in shops when available.

X62503 said:

Question about distance when using a plumb bob: is using a plumb bob at 100 yards distance better than at hallway length? I mean, plumb is plumb, no matter how near or far, correct? You could use Day-Glo paracord at 100 yards so you can see it, or you could use white button hole thread at 25 feet, as far as I can reason. Am I doing it rong?

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Agree! Indeed, plumb is plumb, no matter how any building is tilted. If the litter-box doesn't slide across the floor and hit one preferred wall, you will be fine. A "plumb" line will work at 75 feet if that's all you have.

I spent most of my working life building equipment that had to be plumb and level. In doing so I used levels, mostly magnetic ones so they would stay in place.I carried and used a variety including a transit. Over the years I developed a pretty good eye for noticing any out of true object and the ability has seemed to remain with me over my years of retirement. At least one physical thing seems to continue to work about as well as it ever did. Bummer for those that don't.