10/22 Trigger upgrade.

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mcb

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So my nearly 40 year old 10/22 got a trigger upgrade today. One of the few original parts left in the old gun but it finally got upgraded too.

I went with a Volquartsen HP Action Kit. I did not want to replace my trigger housing with the very afordable Ruger BX one since my 10/22 is old enough to still have the metal (aluminum) trigger housing rather than plastic. The HP Action Kit for $118 seemed a good deal (combined with my own metal trigger housing) compared to some of the full trigger housing from Volquartzen, Timney, or others for what I was hoping was going to be a good trigger.

I measured my existing Ruger trigger and it came in at a moderately stiff, slightly creepy but reasonably smooth 6lb-7oz using a Lyman digital trigger gauge

Installing the new parts was a fairly easy and straightforward task that took about 30 minutes to complete. There is nothing tricking or difficult with a 10/22 trigger except maybe replacing the hammer spring in the hammer spring sub-assembly but a good bench vice and tough fingers made fairly short work of that.

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The good: Easy install and the trigger pull is now about 2lb-2oz. And with the adjustable overtravel stop very little over travel.

The Bad: The difference between the first stage and second stage is not large enough so you don't get a good crisp wall at the start of the second stage. There is a fair bit more creep in the second stage than I was expecting from a Volquartsen, its very smooth but not that much less creep than the factor trigger.

For those of you that have installed one, how much better are the pre-assembly complete replacement assemblies from Volquartsen, Timney or similar vs Ruger Triggers?

The real test will be getting some rounds down range with it and see how it shoots. Unfortunately I am not likely to get to the range before the next match. Nothing like taking an untested fire-control to a match, next weekends NRL22 match should be interesting. :D

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The BX is better than the old metal trigger by quite a bit. The only other one I have experience with is the Kidd which a lot of the shooters on that rimfire forum including me swear by. It is a very good trigger. The first time I shot it I just shook my head and asked myself why I had waited so long to get one.
 
I didn’t have the $$ for the full drop in kit nor the confidence to fiddle with the parts of the trigger on my 1985 era 10-22 rifle (metal trigger guard), so I found the BX on sale. (I kept the old parts in the BX cover in case I decide to give a kit a whirl.)

9394ACB5-CDA0-4551-B266-13FCF3E439B3.jpeg

I installed the BX in about ten minutes, and like your Volquartsen system it really improved the trigger pull on ol’ trusty-rusty. It’s now 1lb 8.7 oz on my Lyman gauge

CC941A59-EF44-485C-A8DF-5FD3EC28960A.jpeg

The improvement was so great I bought one for my new stainless 10-22 international before I ever shot it. This gun (sadly) came with a dark polymer trigger assembly from the factory so there was no change in the overall appearance. This one measures 1 lb 8.4 oz on the Lyman.

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You are 100 pct correct that a trigger upgrade for the 10-22 models makes a ton of difference. The Volquartsen trigger kits and their entire replacement units are A-1 products for 10-22 and their auto pistols, you made a great choice to upgrade it going with Volquartsen :thumbup:.

Stay safe.
 
I massaged mine based on the stuff I found on rimfirecentral: file hammer, jbweld disconnector, add overtravel screw. Took about an hour and worked out really well.

The Volquartsen comes with an overtravel screw integrated and it works well. The creep is my biggest complaint with this trigger. It is still a lot better than the factory trigger.
 
The Volquartsen comes with an overtravel screw integrated and it works well. The creep is my biggest complaint with this trigger. It is still a lot better than the factory trigger.
creep or a mushy takeup? for creep, I take off some of the hammer hook. in the atached picture, the factory hammer is on the left. Look how huge that hook is. On the middle aftermarket one, there isn't a lot of hook to be creepy.
hammers.jpg hammers.jpg

For a sloppy takeup, I fixed it with jb weld as shown here https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251087

actually there is a whole section about what to polish and radius and stone etc here https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220
 
creep or a mushy takeup? for creep, I take off some of the hammer hook. in the atached picture, the factory hammer is on the left. Look how huge that hook is. On the middle aftermarket one, there isn't a lot of hook to be creepy.
View attachment 948132 View attachment 948132

For a sloppy takeup, I fixed it with jb weld as shown here https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251087

actually there is a whole section about what to polish and radius and stone etc here https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220
This is how I normally do most of the trigger work myself too, except on my last built, I got lazy and bought the BX trigger to check it out...I like it, but when I get over the lazy flu I will probably polish and stone the old trigger.
 
The improvement was so great I bought one for my new stainless 10-22 international before I ever shot it. This gun (sadly) came with a dark polymer trigger assembly from the factory so there was no change in the overall appearance. This one measures 1 lb 8.4 oz on the Lyman.

View attachment 948024

Would you like that BX trigger to match the rest of your rifle? If so try this. Get a can of shiny aluminum spry paint, a can of Min-Wax spray polyurethane varnish in either matte, semi-gloss, or clear gloss depending on what the final look you want. Hang the trigger up after wiping it down with rubbing alcohol and lay both cans of paint in the sunshine until everything is nice and warm. Spray the trigger with the aluminum paint and let it cure just long enough to become not dry and spray it with the poly. Let cure for 15 to 20 minutes and give it another coat of poly. On a nice hot day leave it hanging outside until sundown, then hang it inside for another day to cure. I have found this gives a pretty durable paint job and I used it on my BX trigger as it went on a shiny 10/22 and really looked out of place while it was black.
 
I guess I should have updated this thread:

So a week ago I shot the monthly NRL22 match with the new trigger. I fired it for the very first time during the warm-up/zero-check before the match. I had several light strikes initially but they seemed to go away by the time I had my zero checked and double check my range card (~50 rds). The first four stage it ran well but then the light strikes came back. I had at least one misfire in each of the last three stages of the seven stage match. That is very frustrating. Despite the misfires I managed a 3rd place finish but was frustrated none-the-less.

So I took the trigger back apart looking for any issues. I could not find any so when I reinstalled it I use the factory hammer spring rather than the Vorquartsen hammer spring. I took it out yesterday to test it and try some different ammo for accuracy and I ran 55 rds through it with no light strikes. Just in case I have two new Wolf extra power hammer springs on order just incase the light strikes crop back up.

I am still unhappy with the trigger but putting the heavier hammer spring back in and with ~300 rds of dry fire and 200+ round of live fire through it the trigger has gotten somewhat better. Still not $120 worth but I have certainly shot worst.
 
I really admire people with talent....I simply bought Kidd...more money than ability on my part

https://www.coolguyguns.com/TRIGGERS_c_7.html

I agree as I did more research it seems that I really should have gone with Kidd not Vorquartsen but as you point out that is a lot more money for the complete drop in kit from either company. But at this point I am going to keep tinkering with this Vorquartsen HP trigger kit and make it work. As long as the light strike problem does not come back I will continue to use it for awhile longer. I really want to upgrade the stock at this point and will save my fun money for that. And despite my criticisms it is still a lot better than the old factory trigger.

vLW4sWpl.jpg
5-shot 50 yard group in moderate wind yesterday using a bipod on a portable shooting bench.
 
I seen instructions on rimfirecentral, and you simply put the hammer in vice, with a certain size drill bit through the hammer pin hole, and it puts the hammer hooks at the correct angle to stone flush with the top of the vice jaws. It worked great!!
 
I started a thread over at rimfirecentral and go no response. I use to be real active over there. The barrel and stock I am running was even bought from a member there. Was disappointed I did not get a single response.
 
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