Remington 1858 repros

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As an addendum to this thread, I still haven't found an 1858 having blown it with a couple mentioned earlier. Now I
've loacated a HAWES and a two Lyman 1858 revolvers. Is there a reason to pick one over the other ? Finally, how does the Lyman and HAWES compare with the Santa Barbara ? Which would you buy ?
 
The Santa Barbara was supposed to have better steel
Hawes and Lyman were both importers of NMAs neither manufactured them.
Lyman used Uberti and ASP
Hawes used ASP and at least one other less regarded manufacture

Lyman is the better bet versus Hawes working with no other info
 
I’d probably go with the Lyman/Uberti just because parts are available. The Santa Barbara is supposed to be well built from high quality steels but no parts have been available for many years.
 
DocRock

Always liked the styling of the Remington Model 1875, especially with the sail mounted on the underside of the barrel. Gave it a certain design continuity with their New Model Army.
 
electricfactory

I have a Remington New Model Navy and New Model Army, made by Pietta. I got conversion cylinders from Howell's (NMN), and Taylor's (NMA), and they both fit perfectly without any additional fitting required. They are extremely well made, work exactly as they should, and are very easy to use.
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Sorry no photo yet of the conversion cylinder with the NMA.
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I'm still debating whether or not to get a Kirst Cartridge Konverter for my Pietta Colt Model 1860. The Konverter parts and the Ejector Assembly installed is very pricey and I don't know if I will get my money's worth out of it versus just buying a conversion cylinder from Taylor's.
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Santa Barbara is head and shoulders above any of the other reps IMHO. Built like a tank, and out of ordnance grade steel. Fit and finish are outstanding. As far as Hawes and Lyman go, I feel Lyman (ASP) is the better of the two. However, your chances are very good that any conversion cylinder you buy for one of theses older guns will NOT be a drop-in fit and may require timing issues to be resolved. Unless you are a competent gunsmith, Danger, Will Robinson.
My advice would be to buy a NEW Pietta CAM/CAD Remington (2002 or later, if used) and the Taylor's or Howell should drop right in with no fitting required. This is especially true with buying a brand new Pietta. Not to mention that other parts from the CAM/CAD era will bolt right on. Of course, do what you see fit but go into it with your eyes open.
BTW, there is no 'drop-in' conversion for the Santa that won't require fitting either.
 
Captain*kirk

Did Santa Barbara make Remington NMAs for CVA as well as some other importers? When I was a kid I can still remember seeing CVA's ads in Guns and Ammo magazine and thinking some day I'm going to get one of those (which I eventually did but it was the Navy Arms version)!
 
Captain
Where exactly would you buy a ‘new’ Pietta from ? I peruse places like GB because most of the normal online Sellers are all out of stock.

Santa Barbara is head and shoulders above any of the other reps IMHO. Built like a tank, and out of ordnance grade steel. Fit and finish are outstanding. As far as Hawes and Lyman go, I feel Lyman (ASP) is the better of the two. However, your chances are very good that any conversion cylinder you buy for one of theses older guns will NOT be a drop-in fit and may require timing issues to be resolved. Unless you are a competent gunsmith, Danger, Will Robinson.
My advice would be to buy a NEW Pietta CAM/CAD Remington (2002 or later, if used) and the Taylor's or Howell should drop right in with no fitting required. This is especially true with buying a brand new Pietta. Not to mention that other parts from the CAM/CAD era will bolt right on. Of course, do what you see fit but go into it with your eyes open.
BTW, there is no 'drop-in' conversion for the Santa that won't require fitting either.
 
Captain*kirk

Did Santa Barbara make Remington NMAs for CVA as well as some other importers? When I was a kid I can still remember seeing CVA's ads in Guns and Ammo magazine and thinking some day I'm going to get one of those (which I eventually did but it was the Navy Arms version)!
Not that I'm aware of. Santa Barbara's were manufactured in Spain and do not have the traditional Italian date codes or Gardone proof marks...they use their own. To my knowledge the 1858 Remington is the only BP revolver produced by SB as their main function was producing modern military weapons.
 
Captain
Where exactly would you buy a ‘new’ Pietta from ? I peruse places like GB because most of the normal online Sellers are all out of stock.
Cabelas, Cimarron, Dixie Gun Works just to mention a few. The Dixie 'Shooter's Model' is quite a bit more expensive than your 'run-of-the-mill' 1858 but they are said to be tack drivers. I believe they are made by Pedersoli, which would explain both the accuracy as well as the price. They have gain twist barrels. There is also a 'Target Model' with adjustable target sights (much like the ROA)...I have one and it is the most accurate BP revolver I own, (at least the ones I've fired...LOL!) hands down

Showing IN STOCK as of this moment:

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...ixie+Pietta+Remington+New+Model+Army+Revolver
 
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Captain*kirk

Did Santa Barbara make Remington NMAs for CVA as well as some other importers? When I was a kid I can still remember seeing CVA's ads in Guns and Ammo magazine and thinking some day I'm going to get one of those (which I eventually did but it was the Navy Arms version)!
I've owned several CVA Remmies over the years, but they were brassers (brass-framed models) and both were made by ASM (Armi San Marco). They were well-finished, nice wood-to-metal fit, but then there's that whole brass thing...don't get me wrong; I love a good brasser, but sometimes a feller wants to make lots of smoke and noise. It's a guy thing...
 
Cabelas, Cimarron, Dixie Gun Works just to mention a few. The Dixie 'Shooter's Model' is quite a bit more expensive than your 'run-of-the-mill' 1858 but they are said to be tack drivers. I believe they are made by Pedersoli, which would explain both the accuracy as well as the price. They have gain twist barrels. There is also a 'Target Model' with adjustable target sights (much like the ROA)...I have one and it is the most accurate BP revolver I own, (at least the ones I've fired...LOL!) hands down

Showing IN STOCK as of this moment:

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index...ixie+Pietta+Remington+New+Model+Army+Revolver
The shooters model is made by Pietta and the ones I’ve had were indeed shooters. Dixie also sells a cylinder for the shooters which fits the standard model too I’m told but the chambers are bored to .456”...
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The shooters model is made by Pietta and the ones I’ve had were indeed shooters. Dixie also sells a cylinder for the shooters which fits the standard model too I’m told but the chambers are bored to .456”...
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So the factory cylinder for the Shooter’s Model is exactly the same dimensions get bored to 0.456”? Well, that should make me feel much better about taking my standard cylinder that’s been reamed to 0.449” and take it to 0.452-3”. I’ve been looking at those thin walls and hesitating despite having a couple of people state they’ve done so and use energetic powder with bullets just as I do. I’ve been eyeing a hand reamer but have been skeptical of whether or not I can do it well as I’ve read from a couple of people who claimed they ruined theirs trying it.
 
Should not be a problem as long as you go slow, most reamers have a slight taper to get them started straight. Go slow, don't reverse it, use a cutting fluid like Tap Magic.
 
So the factory cylinder for the Shooter’s Model is exactly the same dimensions get bored to 0.456”? Well, that should make me feel much better about taking my standard cylinder that’s been reamed to 0.449” and take it to 0.452-3”. I’ve been looking at those thin walls and hesitating despite having a couple of people state they’ve done so and use energetic powder with bullets just as I do. I’ve been eyeing a hand reamer but have been skeptical of whether or not I can do it well as I’ve read from a couple of people who claimed they ruined theirs trying it.
I have not tried it but I was told that the external dimensions are identical... side note, I sent 5 cylinders off to be reamed to .456 and the results are brilliant. The guns shoot harder and accuracy is at least as good and most instances is improved significantly.
 
I have a Pietta "Shooter's Model" of recent manufacture, 2017. A friend at the local range had a new Pietta standard version with a conversion cylinder. I'm not sure who made the conversion cylinder but it was the non-gated kind you need to take out of the gun to load. We tried fitting it to my "Shooter's Model" and it dropped right in and cycled just fine. We did not shoot it. I don't know how accurate it would be given the Shooter's has a .456" bore and the conversion cylinders might have smaller throats.

Another note, my Shooter's cylinder has two small cone shaped indentation on the cylinder face. It came that way from the factory as I bought it brand new. I don't know for sure but I think they are hardness test marks. If so, it makes me think the Shooter's cylinders might be made of different metal than the regular cylinders. Thus I would say just because Shooter's cylinders are bored to .456" does not mean a regular cylinder should be bored to .456". I'm not saying it's for sure unsafe, I'm just offering what info I have.
 
I have a Pietta "Shooter's Model" of recent manufacture, 2017. A friend at the local range had a new Pietta standard version with a conversion cylinder. I'm not sure who made the conversion cylinder but it was the non-gated kind you need to take out of the gun to load. We tried fitting it to my "Shooter's Model" and it dropped right in and cycled just fine. We did not shoot it. I don't know how accurate it would be given the Shooter's has a .456" bore and the conversion cylinders might have smaller throats.

Another note, my Shooter's cylinder has two small cone shaped indentation on the cylinder face. It came that way from the factory as I bought it brand new. I don't know for sure but I think they are hardness test marks. If so, it makes me think the Shooter's cylinders might be made of different metal than the regular cylinders. Thus I would say just because Shooter's cylinders are bored to .456" does not mean a regular cylinder should be bored to .456". I'm not saying it's for sure unsafe, I'm just offering what info I have.


I wouldn’t want it more than a thousandth over anyway, which would put me at 0.4535” really, but I’d be more than happy with 0.453”.
 
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