223 brass prep question

Is the first time being reloaded or the 2nd. With bottle neck brass it's gets harder and resist sizing (spring back) as it's worked. So it may take a little more adj to get the shoulder to take the new position. Also are you dwelling at the top of your stroke giving the brass a little time to take the set? This can also help. Another one that is over looked a lot is the type of lube being used. Some are thicker than others which does impact the sizing die adj. I anneal every cycle so the brass responds the same every time. Thgis way I do hot have to keep adj my sizing die as the brass work hardens. I move my shoulder back the bare min to extend brass life.

Question for you: What are you sizing these with... what press?

Rule3 said:

Also, WHY are you using #41 primers in a bolt action rifle?? . They are not needed and really not even needed in a semi auto unless it is full auto,

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Like the OP, I use #34's (Large rifle arsenal primers) because that's what I have a lot of... even in my Savage bolt gun, where they don't make any difference. Just FYI, they are a good idea in any semi-auto that has a floating firing pin (think AR's...) or where a slam-fire might be possible (think M1 or M1a,) not necessarily a full-auto. The real key is primer seating depth, but an extra bit of insurance against an unwanted discharge is the arsenal primers.

headspace too tight, the bolt won't close and the firing pin won't strike, too long, and the pin won't strike good enough to make a deep strike, so I don't think case sizing is the issue. Contaminated primers is about the only thing that can create normal strikes and no firing. Wet/bad powder will at least get you a stuck bullet.

Oh I missed post 24 so ignore the above (thou its still relevant to someone searching the subject latter), as for sizing, are you making the shell plate kiss the die? You'll want to make sure you are, not just by feel, because they will feel like they're bottomed out when they're not. I have had 8 Mauser, and a few other rifle rounds bottom out and go no further without the shell holder touching the die, but in 25-30,000 223's I have never had one fail to do so.with a normal amount of force. Also, what lube are you using?

As far as your case gauges.

I have 2 case gauges for 308.
One is a Dillon the other is a Sinclair. If a piece of brass won't fully seat in the sinclair it will usually seat in the Dillon. Case gauges aren't all the same.

Sounds like a difference between the two gauges.If it doesn't want to go in the Lyman and will fall in the Hornady,there is some dimensional variance.Put some of your fired brass in the gauges and see what they say.The resizing and the ftf problems are closly related.Someone mentioned the tape method to help measure headspace.Tape won't work.Buy a cheap feeler gauge at an auto parts store and cut small pieces of it to use as shimstock.Stick it on the case head with a little dab of grease or vaseline,and it'll stay right there.