Carbide expander 45acp

Status
Not open for further replies.
BobW.

BobW.

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
4
Location
Saint Georges Delaware
I've noticed lately when reloading 45acp the standard expander die is hard to withdraw. I'm using a Lee die set to expand and flare case mouth. Since I'm getting older with bad shoulders it's more of a factor. Researching this issue I discovered that Redding makes a 45acp expander die that uses carbide to open up the sized 45acp case. I use a RCBS Rockchucker, the down stroke is easy but the up/withdraw stroke requires some extra effort. This die is about 38$ on ebay a 41$ at Optic Planet.
Has anyone here tried this Redding 45acp carbide expander? if so did it make a significant difference in the effort required to cycle thru the expanding flare stage.? This seems to be the only thing on the market like it.
 
A carbide expander will definitely reduce force at least a little, but you might try just a smidge of lube on every 5th case mouth. That, and slightly polishing the expander, might get you there for free.
 
I wet tumble now and that leaves the brass clean. I don’t use the car wash wax, please, don’t want to. I give the brass a couple seconds of hornady one shot case lube and that smooths out the press and reduces the stiction. Good luck!
 
I don't think there will much difference between the steel and carbide. I do know if you have a TiNi coated one it will reduce the force due to lubricity of this coating. Don't know of any mfg doing this at this time. The best would be to use some dry lube like the Redding Neck Sizing Lube.
 
BobW. said:
I'm using a Lee die set to expand and flare case mouth.
Click to expand...

The design flaw with the standard Lee plug is the 1/8” long straight section before the plug’s tapered expansion. When the case is flared, and the loading press ram starts to go back down, the straight section of the plug and case act like a Chinese finger trap.

You can fix your Lee die for free.

The expander plug is titanium carbide based on grey color, also sparks when grinding. Using a grinder or a grinding wheel, remove the 1/8” straight section. Use a grinder to put an outside radius on your grind. Use lapping compound or steel wool to polish the expander.

The plug on the left is a Lee 380 ACP plug, unmodified. The expander plug on the right is a Lee 38/357 expander plug, modified. You can see how much I ground the 38/357 expander plug by comparing it to the 380 expander plug. You will simply be amazed at the difference.

View attachment 953576
 
Last edited:
Thank you very much RU4real for the pictures and explanation. I too have a sticky Lee expander and I hate to give it up because I use the Autodrum powder measure with it I tried polishing the expander die. Did a good job with 400 grit silicone carbide. That made the sticking a lot worse. I will be modifying my expander today, I expect I load 3 calibers with the Lee expanders. I never really noticed the sticking as a problem with the 9 mm and the .41 mag. But...right now I am loading .357 with new Starline cases and it sticks enough for me to question the effect on powder drops. I also tried lube but cannot get my mind around putting lube into a case just before dropping powder. And the lube only worked if I put it on almost every case.

Have you noticed any downside to the shortened expander?
 
Bill M. said:
I tried polishing the expander die... That made the sticking a lot worse. Have you noticed any downside to the shortened expander?
Click to expand...

LOL, I started by polishing first, too! And I was pulling my hair out thinking, how did polishing make it worse? Then I realized polishing made a better Chinese finger trap.

No downsides to this. I did my first one for 45 Colt about 5 years ago and have loaded about 5,000 rounds with that modified plug since then.
 
Last edited:
Bill M. said:
But...right now I am loading .357 with new Starline cases and it sticks enough for me to question the effect on powder drops.
Click to expand...
I noticed when using brand new cases, the expander sticks because there is no residual carbon left inside the case. I only tumble my cases in corn cob media, because I want to conserve that carping layer that provides lubricity.
 
Many of the Lee expanders are "sticky" and are thought of as a plus when charging powder in the powder through/expander die. The "shudder" as the expander is extracted reduces and powder sticking to the die ID...
 
mdi said:
Many of the Lee expanders are "sticky" and are thought of as a plus when charging powder in the powder through/expander die. The "shudder" as the expander is extracted reduces and powder sticking to the die ID...
Click to expand...

The problem with that is... on some progressive presses, like my Hornady ProJector, that sticktion will snap the shellplate, causing the just dropped powder charge to flick out of the case. Definitely not a good thing...
 
I have the Redding expander, it's a M die design that is also titanium coated carbide. Worth every penny.
I load wet tumbled brass with a Dillon 650, it makes a HUGE difference and the brass no longer sticks...buy the die.
 
Yes it's the shutter you sometimes get when withdrawing from the case, it's very annoying.
Depending on the type cases, yesterday I did some once fired 45acp Win cases with a good amount of withdraw resistance and shutter, they were tight. Later I did some mixed brass which had been fired any number of times and had little to no shutter or withdraw resistance. Basically it's annoying to have the the shutter. I think I'll follow the above advice and polish the plug. I might just buy a Redding carbide expander anyway, it's fun to experiment with these tools.
 
I believe the Redding carbide expanders are for rifle cartridges. Their pistol expander is titanium coated.
 
Ru4real said:
I fixed this same issue on a number of Lee die expander plugs. The problem with the standard Lee plug is the 1/8” long straight section before the plug’s tapered expansion. When the case is flared, and the loading press ram starts to go back down, the straight section of the plug and case act together like a Chinese finger trap.

You can fix your Lee die for free, and about a half hour of your time. The expander plug is probably titanium carbide (based on grey color, also sparks when grinding) you cannot touch them with a file. Using a grinder or a grinding wheel, remove the 1/8” straight section. Use a file (or grinder if you trust yourself) to put an outside radius on your grind. Use lapping compound or steel wool to polish the expander.

The plug on the left is a Lee 380 ACP plug, unmodified. The expander plug on the right is a Lee 38/357 expander plug, modified. You will simply be amazed at the difference.

View attachment 953576
Click to expand...
I've seen RCBS dies that were the same way. I called the company, they knew about the issue, and they sent another expander, no charge, and the sky turned blue and the birds sang ........

Carbide supposedly eliminated lube. Yep, ok. For pistol cartridges, I take a gallon plastic zip lock and put, oh, 100 or so casings in the bag, then spray Hornady on the bag sides as well as the brass. Then I tumble it all in my hands to get a good coating on everything. That combined with carbide makes life easy. My .357's go nicely, and I think them harder than a .45.
 
One of several reasons why I no longer buy Lee die sets. That issue is dramatically reduced on most expanders from other manufacturers.

I'd sell the set and buy a different brand or try to mod the one you have as suggested. I tried to polish one I had and saw no significant improvement.
 
I find this hilarious that some many people on two separate threads are pissin and moaning about a die that is doing what it was designed to do, I imagine that if it didn't do this all those same people would be complaining and calling Lee Dies junk because they were leaking and dropping powder all over their benches.

Simple really, if you are not using a Lee Powder measure mounted atop the die then don't buy Lee dies. Buy Hornady or Lyman or some other brand.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mdi
@BobW. I should have added this before, but.... the Lee die has that sliding expander, which rides up in the die at full press stroke, then slides down in the die a bit as you move the ram the other way. I found the problem with some presses is that when the stroke is reversed, you're not at the point of greatest leverage when you need it.

My solution - polish the Lee expander piece. Then I used an odd nut and three thin odd washers between the floating expander and the hollow part that is the "drop thru", in order to lock the expander in its down position. Problem solved 100%, but... I don't pour powder thru my die, I charge in the loading block after expansion.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
RCBS rifle die expander upgrade to carbide
Replies
6
Views
3K
rodregier
R
H
  • Locked
Carbide vs steel expander ball
Replies
4
Views
377
highlander 5
H
Walkalong
  • Locked
Neck expander Carbide???
Replies
2
Views
534
Walkalong
Walkalong
JimKirk
  • Locked
Carbide Expander Buttons
Replies
8
Views
1K
JimKirk
JimKirk
Jesse Heywood
  • Locked
Lyman Carbide Expander - Review
Replies
7
Views
395
Slamfire
Slamfire
Back
Top