High Quality Kinetic Bullet Puller made in the USA

GW Staar said:

That said, I wouldn't want the liability to sell even the commercial tools, because who knows what stupid things people might do with it. And for that reason, I just show you what I've used for 45 years without a problem.....and if you want to "risk" making one yourself, by first visiting Home Depot, that's on you....

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GW Starr - You obviously put a LOT of thought & work into making a mod that's good for you.

When I mentioned "shell holders", I was talking about unmodified ones.
With the reloader being ... unsure how to say this without hurting feelings..
using less than the utmost in safety.

We have to be extremely cautious.
Powder will burn by itself w/o causing a catastrophy
But once in a case with a bullet seated, that same powder can & will KILL.

Please be careful my friends.
We want to see all of you here!

Hondo 60 said:

GW Starr - You obviously put a LOT of thought & work into making a mod that's good for you.

When I mentioned "shell holders", I was talking about unmodified ones.
With the reloader being ... unsure how to say this without hurting feelings..
using less than the utmost in safety.

We have to be extremely cautious.
Powder will burn by itself w/o causing a catastrophy
But once in a case with a bullet seated, that same powder can & will KILL.

Please be careful my friends.
We want to see all of you here!

Click to expand...

The danger with unmodified shell holders is that cases (and primers) can slide. That in itself isn't dangerous if the primer is recessed properly. But a round with a proud primer in a regular shell holder has caused an accident or two in commercial kinetics not designed to use them....because they can slide. So DON'T use them when your factory parts break or get lost, unless you can devise a safe way to keep the primer centered in the holder. My application does that. and it easy to make the keepers....but I can't furnish them to others, and I can't control what others make for themselves.

One more detail. My shellholders are not modified at all. I just made a formed removeable part to go in behind the case to close the door to any sliding. Cases are forced to stay put, centered. I'll take a picture.....look for it here later.

Rather than just a picture, I decided two quick videos would do a better job of explanation of how I made normal shellholders safe to use.

The first is a big shellholder, and for it I used a bigger cap, and reducer, added parts to the normal pipe tool. But since it's bigger it's easier to show the concept. Just think reversing this video to actually make an epoxy keeper in the following steps. 1. make a mold from embossing tape to wrap around the shellholder. 2. coat a case, shellholder and the mold with vasoline so the epoxy doesn't stick to any of it. 3. place the case in the shellholder and add the tape ring mold around it. 4. Then mix epoxy putty (steel reinforced lasts longer...not shown) and press it into the recesses around the case, shellholder as shown in the video. 5. Before it gets hard trim the keeper on top flush.

First video shows the finished result.


Second video shows how the now safe shelholder mounts to the pipe bullet puller cap.....when screwed on to the reducer, the reducer locks the shellholder in place vertically, the insert in the cap locks it laterally.

Bfh_auto said:

Just remember if about the speed of impact. Not the power. 3 good licks will remove most bullets.

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This is what my experience shows with a kinetic bullet puller.

I've found when striking against a piece of wood, the wood absorbs too much of the energy requiring the user to strike with harder blows. But, hard wood like oak may be better.

Striking against concrete tends top chip the concrete sending shards of concrete all around.

I have an old farrier's anvil that I use to strike my kinetic puller against. I've substituted mild steel plate at times. I use sharp blows, light at first and increasing in speed until the bullet drops out of the case. Once I learn the speed necessary, I reproduce it for subsequent cases that need to be pulled. In any case, I expect to take two or three blows to dislodge the bullet. I do not necessarily expect to remove the bullet on one strike.

My RCBS kinetic puller dates back to the early 1980's and is still going strong. I do not pull many bullets per year and the tip is beginning to show its age. I do consider a kinetic bullet puller a consumable item but you do not have to strike the snot out of to make it work, and last, most of the time.

P.S., having an anvil is a useful item to have around the shop. It falls in the tool category, "Tough to justify, invaluable once obtained."