Crimp on 44 magnum question

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Palladan44

Palladan44

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This is one of my favorite loads...
44 mag.
240gr LSWC from SNS. 18 brinell (blue lube)
2400 @ 20.0 gr.
1.600 OAL (gets case mouth right to the top of the crimp groove)
New WW brass.
Win LPPs

I have the crimp rolled into the crimp groove, as much as i believe is necessary. It looks perfect to me.........
Now i just had someone tell me that i shouldnt be roll crimping my cast lead bullets (i chuckled). He said as the bullet fires, the case scrapes the lead off the bullet and causes leading and accuracy issues. (I have no such issues)
I believe you can roll crimp any bullet in 44 (besides plated) with no problems, as long as its not crimped where its not supposed to be (outside the cannelure or crimp groove) or crimped so hard that it doesnt deform the bullet upon crimping.

I believe that when the round fires, the expansion process of the brass gets fire formed into the chamber before the bullet has a chance to "scrape" along the brass crimp. Thoughts?
 
Great, thanks for the reassurance.
This load produces real "Magnum power" along with target load like accuracy. Its good for everything Id ever need. Theres many "fake experts" out there just breathing hot air.
 
Revolver=roll crimp. Semi auto=taper crimp. Pretty standard in most cases. Since most semis headspace on the case mouth you shouldn't roll crimp. If you have any kind of moderate to stiff load in the revolver the firm roll crimp improves ignition. I disagree with your idea that the case fire forms before the bullet leaves but also disagree with the wizard that thinks the crimp scrapes lead. It will mark it a little, just pull a bullet from a loaded, cropped round. Doesn't mattet as the rapidly expanding gasses bump up the base of a cast pullet of proper hardness to seal or the gas check does the sealing if the bullet has one. Seems like much ado about nothing. Personally, I think bevel base bullets are a big cause of leading.
 
Palladan44 said:
Now i just had someone tell me that i shouldnt be roll crimping my cast lead bullets (i chuckled). He said as the bullet fires, the case scrapes the lead off the bullet and causes leading and accuracy issues.
Click to expand...

He may have his sequence out of order...

You have to flare the case mouth when loading cast bullets to avoid scraping or shaving lead when seating, but that would be prior to the crimp being applied. Trust me, once that powder charge lights off... nothing is getting in the way of that bullet, let alone a roll crimp. I would dare say the barrel rifling will do more to 'shave' or distort the bullet than mild brass rolled into a crimp groove.
 
No roll crimp with 20 grains of 2400?
Yeah, don't listen to that guy.
2400 is a slow burning magnum powder that needs a crimp to get a good complete burn.
Plus, with a magnum load, you're likely to start getting bullet setback without a roll crimp, which can lead to locking up your gun if it sets back too far.
 
Arkansas Paul said:
No roll crimp with 20 grains of 2400?
Yeah, don't listen to that guy.
2400 is a slow burning magnum powder that needs a crimp to get a good complete burn.
Plus, with a magnum load, you're likely to start getting bullet setback without a roll crimp, which can lead to locking up your gun if it sets back too far.
Click to expand...
I agree
 
Walkalong said:
See how the case mouth wants to follow the crimp groove or cannelure?
These are with the same crimp setup.
View attachment 957422 View attachment 957423 View attachment 957424 View attachment 957425
Click to expand...

Are these examples of what happened to bullets moving forward in the cases from recoil?
I see a similar phenomenon occur with Riflescopes creeping forward a half millimeter at a time under recoil impulse, if the scope rings are not tight enough or from a poor setup combo.
 
I crimp every 44 Magnum cartridge I reload, from 123 gr. balls up to 310 gr. ingots with a roll crimp, a profile crimp or a collet crimp. Every bullet, cast or jacketed gets a crimp in the crimp groove or cannalure (except the balls and they are lightly roll crimped just over the full diameter). On some of the lighter loads I have noticed a very slight roll left in the case mouth after firing, but pulled cast bullets (WW alloy) show no scraping...
 
I've got a Redding crimp die for .44 Magnum that provides both a taper and a roll crimp. I've seen the Lee FCD described the same way, but I have no first hand experience with it.

Other than the bullet walking out of the case due to inertia, are there other indications of inadequate crimp? Inconsistent fps? And I'm talking about Magnum powders like H110 or Enforcer.
 
I love a good roll crimp on .357 and .44 Mag rounds. That’s why I prefer to crimp separate from the seating die so I can better manage the amount of crimp I add.
 
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