Any mini-14 experts?

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I have a 181 series that I got from my grandpa. About one out of 10 rounds fails to fire with no mark on the primer. It also has issues picking up a new round when cycling. (Factory mag)
I can see quite a bit of wear on the hammer which I don't know if is normal. Also, the firing pin doesn't protrude very far (IMHO).
Any ideas? Send it to Ruger? Do they service guns that old? Am I better off finding a local gunsmith?
I've tried a good cleaning. IMG_20201130_183348676.jpg IMG_20201130_184053296.jpg IMG_20201130_184100208.jpg IMG_20201130_183330882.jpg IMG_20201130_184110239.jpg
 
If it’s been stripped and cleaned well, a new set of Wolff springs may be all it needs, for the action, trigger group and mag.

I added an extra power hammer spring for my 180 series mini 30 to fire steel cased ammo, this may also be an option if it’s still not hitting hard enough (and the firing pin channel is clean and it’s not broken inside the bolt.)

(Those 180-series minis are getting up in age and you may not know how many rounds went through it, IMHO a re-springing is a good idea even if it doesn’t solve all the issues.)

Good luck :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
Have you tried different ammo? Ive recently had the exact same issues with a brand new Winchester mdl. 70 only to discover the cheap ppu 30-06 ammo had overly deep primer pockets, might be worth a look, though it wont explain the cycling issues.
 
I haven't disassembled it. I was thinking of soaking it in solvent and blowing it out with compressed air.
Never on my mini, but every time I’ve ever had or seen a random, “no fire, no mark on the primer”, it’s ended up being a teeny tiny sliver of brass within the firing pin channel.
Sometimes it’s not in the way, other times it is.

Wouldn’t hurt to pull it apart just to make sure
 
If only 1 in 10 fails to fire, odds are that the firing pin in the bolt is ok. Odds are that the hammer spring is ok. Odds are the magazine spring is ok (its feeding ammo after all). And, odds are that the bolt is not closing fully. The only way you'd get zero indentation in the primer is from a bolt not quite closed. There is a safety feature which prevents the firing pin from moving unless the bolt is fully locked in.

#1 - field strip and clean the action. Pay particular attention to the recesses in the receiver where the bolt locks in. Make sure the chamber is clean. Make sure the bolt is clean. Depending on the ammo, you may have old powder residue and carbon fouling in the locking area which needs to be removed. An M16/M4/AR type chamber brush won't really work quite so well since it will be reversed in the chamber (the rod feeds in through the muzzle on an Mini-14). That's ok, just get the big bristles into the locking recess part and give 'em a good spin around a few times, then a few more. Thereafter you can use a 45cal brush in the chamber, or a 41cal brush if you can find one.

That should do it. There is also an odd chance that the ammo has the bullet seated out too far, and that his keeping the case from fully moving forward into the chamber, and thus keeping the bolt not quite locked into position. Switch ammo if that is the case.

Mini-14's hardly ever give any grief, and back in the day.... I once fired 500 rounds as fast as I could change magazines, in an attempt to see if I could get it hot enough to cook-off the round in the chamber. I was unsuccessful. And as far as I could tell, that tough Ruger barrel was none the worse for the wear either. Never was a tack driver, maybe 2 inches at best at 100yds, but no worse after the torture test.
 
Project 355 is right, you want to field strip that gun. Do a total clean up. Ruger may not fix a rifle that old, but they will send you a free instruction manual. AFAIK, Rugers all have company address information stamped on the barrel or receiver of the firearm. here we go:
Ruger, Newport, NH, USA

IME, the springs stiffen up on a Mini-14, if you don't use it regularly.

There is also a wealth of information on Mini-14s, at the Perfect Union Forum, which is a site dedicated, for the most part, to Ruger Mini -14s.
 
Extractor. Mine would fire fine but the bolt had to be forced closed by seating a round behind the extractor then closing the bolt. Would go bang every time that way. But would not seat a new round behind the extractor. Disassembled the bolt and cleaned out the small holes and crevices, polished the extractor pivot pin and plunger, and reassembled it. Cycles like new again.

Mine is a 181 series IIRC or 183?
 
lost all love of the mini 14 when i called ruger .they said they were happy if the gun shot 1.5" at 50 yard
 
I took the bolt apart and cleaned it, replaced the hammer and recoil springs, and spent some more time cleaning the chamber. No more failure to fire. However sometimes it won't feed a new round or it will get jammed on the way it. It happens with a Ruger magazine and an aftermarket magazine. IMG_20201208_115828472_HDR.jpg IMG_20201208_115828472_HDR.jpg IMG_20201208_115821449_HDR.jpg
 
Would seem the later problem is a mag problem. You may want to also post on perfectunion.com, they have an active mini 14 forum. They helped me with my Mini 30 problem. I love my 181 Series mini.
 
Is it possible that the bolt isn’t coming back far enough to grab the next round?
what ammo are you running?

Probably though, just mag springs that are plum tuckered out.
 
Try going back to old recoil spring. Looks like a rise time issue. But.... I aint there either
 
Just out of curiosity, are you shooting brass or steel ammo? They have been known to have problems with the Russian steel ammo primers, especially the Mini-30's.

The Russian primers are hard and set in a little.
 
You never said what ammo you were using. Your gun looks like normal wear and tear on a 40 year old blued gun. Your failure to fire could be one of 2 things, the primers are set too deep or something is preventing your pin from going forward. Someone already said it, clean the bolt and the firing pin channel. Stay away from Wolf extra power springs. The extra power hammer spring can break your firing pin. The extra power recoil spring slams the op rod against the gas block with excessive force. You may need new Ruger factory springs. The Mini 14 has several moving parts and the blue wears off of those moving parts within just a few rounds. Clean it, lube it and use good quality brass cased rounds in it. Stay away from the Steel cased rounds. They tend to have harder and deeper set primers. Go to perfectunion.com for additional help with Mini 14's and 30's.

I see you put a new recoil spring in the gun. If you put an extra power spring in it you will have failure to feed issues with light weight ammo. Put a factory spring in the gun.
kwg
 
lost all love of the mini 14 when i called ruger .they said they were happy if the gun shot 1.5" at 50 yard
That makes it a 3 inch gun at 100 yards. That is good to go as per Ruger. The Mini's are not target rifles.
kwg
 
Look up the you tube videos on mini 14 barrel whip, it will show why the early ones pattern like a shotgun at 50 yards. I made a steel rod gadget for mine that clamps to the barrel and gas block. Gun shoots dime sized 3 shot groups at 50 yards.
 
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