LR Rifles?

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Axis II

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I have been looking because I found a place close that does steel shoots and classes. I have narrowed it down to a savage BA stealth 6.5 or a model M10 SBA or M10 FCP in 6.5. $400 for the M10 and $650 for the BA stealth. Whats the deal with these chassis rifles? Does this eliminate the need for glass bedding and all the other fun stuff? Are these decent beginner long range rifles? Oh, and whats with these M10? Savage doesnt have these listed anywhere. Google says they maybe a piece and part for that specific store. Just looking to bang some steel with decent groups.
 
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To my knowledge, “M10” thing for Savage retail listings are just a matter of nomenclature - the vendor is denoting “model” by “M,” much as you’ll see folks typing “M700” for the Remington 700 or “M70” for the Winchester Model 70. While Ruger actually stamps “M77” on the side of their rifles, most don’t - but retailers will list rifles as “Mxxx” all the same.

Chassis rifles typically do not require glass bedding, but it doesn’t hurt to do so, even in a chassis - but there are also plenty of stocks out there with aluminum bedding blocks which also do not require glass bedding. There are two disadvantages I would point out for the Savage BA Stealth if you start shooting for matches - 1) it’s a Savage, and feeding and extraction WILL bite you in the ass, eventually (or immediately), and 2) the MDT LSS chassis of the Stealth has quite a short forend, which doesn’t suit well for competition. Adding an Mlok compatible Arcalock rail from Area419 can help add some length, almost like a spigot mount, and it helps flatten the bottom to better ride a bag if they are doing precision rifle type matches, but it’s still not as good as it could/should be for that kind of shooting. Nice for carrying the rifle a long ways and not shooting much, but not great for shoot-and-move precision match type shooting.
 
Varminterror said:
1) it’s a Savage, and feeding and extraction WILL bite you in the ass, eventually (or immediately)
Click to expand...

I've got around a dozen rifles with Savage action's. I've never had any feeding issue's that couldn't be tracked down to improperly bent feed lips on the magazine or magazine box.
As far as extraction issues, all you need to do is change out the ball bearing that's under the extractor with a larger ball bearing. The extractor itself is also a wear item, and will need to be replaced when it gets worn. Both are cheap parts, and it takes less than a minute or two to change them out.

I'm not a fan of the MDT chassis, there are several other brands that are 100% better. There are also plenty of excellent choices when it comes to stock's like Manners, McMillan, HS Precision, and many more.
 
@Txhillbilly - you’re acknowledging the weaknesses of the Savage extractor in your own post. It’s a documented, known, and proven weakness of the design. Most folks don’t run their Savages hard enough or in harsh enough conditions for this to ever be an issue, so many, many folks like yourself refuse to acknowledge it. But in the context of what I’d expect his local range’s long range shoots would be, running on steel, it may well be a weakness he’d want to avoid. I enjoy my Savage rifles too. Nobody kicked your dog, I just acknowledged if you’re spending new money on a rifle for a given purpose, there are better rocks to look under.
 
Ive had a savage extractor fail to pull a stuck case from a slightly rusted chamber. I had the gun out pig hunting the evening before and didn't clean it since I knew we were coming back the next day. Fired, and couldn't get the shell out of the chamber, the extractor kept jumping the rim.
Changed them out easily enough after ordering the parts, and I started keeping spares....still have some and i don't have a savage anymore.
I did have to deal with a pissed off 100lb hog with only a pocket knife and a big rock that day tho.

Honestly, I think for someone just trying the whole LR thing out...or well entry-level anything.... savage isn't a bad way to go, especially if just seeing how it is. Just have to be aware of the limitation to the platform.
Personally Id probably go with the FCP and drop it in a boyds Provarmint stock with pillars and bedding.....but that's because I already know I like how those stocks and guns set up in them feel.
If ordering the BA id have to change the but stock and that would tack on another chunk of cash....tho i guess bass proshops has the BAs for 660, which would make it a 800 dollar rifle after adding a luth stock.
 
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I've seen a few new savages with free and extraction problems, I haven't wanted to spend my money anything savage for the last 10 years or so. The savages with any pic rails installed have a good chance it's messed up, egw said they have a huge amount of calls from New savage owners about there rail were installed improper. Egw being good would cover a replacement free of charge.
 
troy fairweather said:
I've seen a few new savages with free and extraction problems, I haven't wanted to spend my money anything savage for the last 10 years or so. The savages with any pic rails installed have a good chance it's messed up, egw said they have a huge amount of calls from New savage owners about there rail were installed improper. Egw being good would cover a replacement free of charge.
Click to expand...

The BA does at least avoid using savage mags...for the FCP you'd probably want to add an aic mag conversion.
 
Varminterror said:
To my knowledge, “M10” thing for Savage retail listings are just a matter of nomenclature - the vendor is denoting “model” by “M,” much as you’ll see folks typing “M700” for the Remington 700 or “M70” for the Winchester Model 70. While Ruger actually stamps “M77” on the side of their rifles, most don’t - but retailers will list rifles as “Mxxx” all the same.

Chassis rifles typically do not require glass bedding, but it doesn’t hurt to do so, even in a chassis - but there are also plenty of stocks out there with aluminum bedding blocks which also do not require glass bedding. There are two disadvantages I would point out for the Savage BA Stealth if you start shooting for matches - 1) it’s a Savage, and feeding and extraction WILL bite you in the ass, eventually (or immediately), and 2) the MDT LSS chassis of the Stealth has quite a short forend, which doesn’t suit well for competition. Adding an Mlok compatible Arcalock rail from Area419 can help add some length, almost like a spigot mount, and it helps flatten the bottom to better ride a bag if they are doing precision rifle type matches, but it’s still not as good as it could/should be for that kind of shooting. Nice for carrying the rifle a long ways and not shooting much, but not great for shoot-and-move precision match type shooting.
Click to expand...
I found a 700 yard range about 45min away and they offer classes for like $30 a session. I figured get something decent and get my feet wet to see if I enjoy it and go from there. They do offer matches but I figure take a couple classes and have some fun alone and then maybe shoot some matches in a year or so.
 
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LoonWulf said:
Ive had a savage extractor fail to pull a stuck case from a slightly rusted chamber. I had the gun out pig hunting the evening before and didn't clean it since I knew we were coming back the next day. Fired, and couldn't get the shell out of the chamber, the extractor kept jumping the rim.
Changed them out easily enough after ordering the parts, and I started keeping spares....still have some and i don't have a savage anymore.
I did have to deal with a pissed off 100lb hog with only a pocket knife and a big rock that day tho.

Honestly, I think for someone just trying the whole LR thing out...or well entry-level anything.... savage isn't a bad way to go, especially if just seeing how it is. Just have to be aware of the limitation to the platform.
Personally Id probably go with the FCP and drop it in a boyds Provarmint stock with pillars and bedding.....but that's because I already know I like how those stocks and guns set up in them feel.
If ordering the BA id have to change the but stock and that would tack on another chunk of cash....tho i guess bass proshops has the BAs for 660, which would make it a 800 dollar rifle after adding a luth stock.
Click to expand...
Thats what I was thinking of doing. Either get the M10 and see how it shot with the factory stock, upgrade to a pro varmint or AT one. As soon as I saw the BA Stealth I said to myself I would change out to butt stock to something larger. I dont really like AR15's so I dont think I would like the BA Stealth.
 
I bought a Savage 110 Desert Tactical 6.5CM for $535. It is a heavy rifle designed for long range shooting, but not a chassis model. I'm building loads for it now and with my first batch have achieved 1" groups at 100 yds. I'm certain that can be improved with additional load development, trigger adjustment/replacement, and practice. I'm not interested in competitions so my demands for performance are different. So far it's been a good rifle.
 
Oh.....2nd thought.....I just read a review and watched some videos of the T/C LRR (Long Range Rifle), which is a chassis rifle that can be had in .308, 6.5CM and .243 for around $1200. It has a lot going for it and the price is moderate. It looks really good and shoots great.
 
Sniper66 said:
Oh.....2nd thought.....I just read a review and watched some videos of the T/C LRR (Long Range Rifle), which is a chassis rifle that can be had in .308, 6.5CM and .243 for around $1200. It has a lot going for it and the price is moderate. It looks really good and shoots great.
Click to expand...
I looked at that early on in my quest of which rifle to start with, looks like a solid value
 
Another option is a tikka ctr, good shooter and good design. If you think you will enjoy shooting enough and the budget could flex, there are great options in the $2500 range
https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/...-6-5cm-nucleus-gen-2-0-rifle-1200?category=26

Will run like a sowing machine, its a $1200 chassis, $1000 action, and a trigger with a free match grade barrel installed - a great value that will not need upgraded when the LR bug bites you
 
I have a Savage stealth.
Pros:
It is a wonderfully accurate rifle.
Smooth.
AIC Magazines
Threaded

Cons:
Wee bit heavy
The forend length about 3" too short for me.
THAT Effing extractor.

Had 4 savage rifles. I'm down to 1 (the stealth) because of those pos extractors. It is better now. Most of the time it'll just leave the case halfway between the mag and the chamber. Otherwise it'll just pop it outta the chamber, lose it and have it just outta the chamber.

But usually it'll eject them fine, until it doesn't.
And yes I've replaced the extractor ball and even the whole bolt on the stealth.
 
z7 said:
Another option is a tikka ctr, good shooter and good design. If you think you will enjoy shooting enough and the budget could flex, there are great options in the $2500 range
https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/...-6-5cm-nucleus-gen-2-0-rifle-1200?category=26

Will run like a sowing machine, its a $1200 chassis, $1000 action, and a trigger with a free match grade barrel installed - a great value that will not need upgraded when the LR bug bites you
Click to expand...

Or, You can just build your own for less money. ARC Nucleus action, KRG Bravo chassis, Trigger Tech Diamond trigger, X-Caliber barrel = under $2k
This one is a 22 Creedmoor that I assembled-

MZkFqJE.jpg
 
792mauser said:
I have a Savage stealth.
Pros:
It is a wonderfully accurate rifle.
Smooth.
AIC Magazines
Threaded

Cons:
Wee bit heavy
The forend length about 3" too short for me.
THAT Effing extractor.

Had 4 savage rifles. I'm down to 1 (the stealth) because of those pos extractors. It is better now. Most of the time it'll just leave the case halfway between the mag and the chamber. Otherwise it'll just pop it outta the chamber, lose it and have it just outta the chamber.

But usually it'll eject them fine, until it doesn't.
And yes I've replaced the extractor ball and even the whole bolt on the stealth.
Click to expand...

A lot of times, the shooter is to blame for Savage extractor issues. If you pull the bolt back slowly, once the case clears the face of the barrel, the ejector will push the case into the inner side of the action and then the case pops out of the bolt head/extractor, and lands inside the action.
I can make any Savage 10 / 110 action do this no matter how new the extractor is.

If you rapidly operate the bolt back, this problem doesn't happen unless you have a badly worn extractor. Yes, the design has always had issues, but operating your bolt slowly only enhances the problem with the design.
 
Txhillbilly said:
Or, You can just build your own for less money. ARC Nucleus action, KRG Bravo chassis, Trigger Tech Diamond trigger, X-Caliber barrel = under $2k
This one is a 22 Creedmoor that I assembled-

View attachment 966001
Click to expand...
Yes, you can build it pretty easy, but the krg bravo is a $400 chassis that in prs you will outgrow or spend $600 upgrading, and the

the arc chassis is about as good as they get for a rifle shooter.

but, bolt guns are becoming legos between the prefit barrels, chassis and such,
 
It'll still do it randomly.
I run the savage briskly. I learned years ago that running her slow made the problem worse.

Hornady brass seems to be the worst offender in my rifle.

Strangely starline rarely falters and is what I load with now. It works %90 and I can deal with that.
 
z7 said:
Yes, you can build it pretty easy, but the krg bravo is a $400 chassis that in prs you will outgrow or spend $600 upgrading, and the

the arc chassis is about as good as they get for a rifle shooter.

but, bolt guns are becoming legos between the prefit barrels, chassis and such,
Click to expand...

I don't recall that the OP ever mentioned shooting PRS matches. ARC's chassis is nice, but so are plenty of other's. I personally like my KRG Whiskey 3 and Manner's mini chassis stock's on a couple of my other rifles, but the Bravo is a lot of stock for the money.
 
Txhillbilly said:
I don't recall that the OP ever mentioned shooting PRS matches. ARC's chassis is nice, but so are plenty of other's. I personally like my KRG Whiskey 3 and Manner's mini chassis stock's on a couple of my other rifles, but the Bravo is a lot of stock for the money.
Click to expand...
Just looking to bang steel prone and from a bench.
 
Axis II said:
Just looking to bang steel prone and from a bench.
Click to expand...
Savage offers the shooter a wide variety of Long Range entry/mid level rifles that perform extremely well, my only extraction issue was AFTER I changed to the short 6 br cases so that's on me.

Savage stealth
LRPV
BVSS
Benchrest
Palm a
F class
Lots of calibers to choose from in these models at a reasonable price depending on where you shop.
 
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