Glass Bedding

Marine Tex http://marinetex.com/products/marine-tex-products/marine-tex-epoxy-putty/http://marinetex.com/products/marine-tex-products/marine-tex-epoxy-putty/

I use marine text and devcon steel. The devcon is stickier and More likely to cause issues with your release agent if you're using something like wax.

I've never used plain old Jb weld but it would probably work just fine

Lots of folks have used JB weld with success however I would only do action bedding with it and I would try to find a better color if doing a wood stock.

I've used all of the above as well as other two part epoxies. My favorites have aluminum or stainless steel powder.
The last quick job I did was JB fast setting and I darn near didn't get the action in quick enough.
I use the same old can of Simoniz paste wax I've used since the 1970s for release agent.

Edit: Lobo, if I had to look for a release agent today, I'd probably go with what a buddy uses - axle/wheel bearing grease. He says it doesn't contaminate the epoxy.

I’ve used JB Weld three times and was happy each time. I used clear shoe polish as the release agent. The threads on THR along with a few online videos were my source of instruction. I highly recommend getting some bolts that are the same thread as your action screws and cutting off the heads. The resulting threaded rods are great for aligning the action in the stock and provide a good place to rap with a mallet to unseat the action once the bedding dries.

Drill some small, shallow holes to give the JB weld some teeth, make sure you give the lug area some room for the JB weld. Dam up with modeling clay, wax works for a release agent(let it haze) Masking tape the rest of what you want to keep clean! Pillar bedding is inserting steel pillars into the stock, to tighten the action screws more solidly, no wood compression.

I have bedded three bolt actions with JB WELD. I removed about 1/2” of wood behind the recoil lug, blobbed in the epoxy and set the action with minimal bolt tension. I smeared axle grease on the lug and underside of the barrel as a release agent.
It is tight and none have cracked.

I've nothing against JB, but I have to admit that I've been pretty happy with Brownell's AcraGlas Gel. Given what I have to shell out for other shooting paraphernalia I'm OK with the retail price. It usually takes me 3-4 projects to use up one kit, as it keeps pretty well unmixed and makes an excellent adhesive for general stock repairs as well as bedding jobs.

In the past I have tried using off-the-shelf generic epoxies to fill stock voids. Some of these turned out to have a rather rubbery texture after curing, so when in doubt do a test blob first.

Might not want to use axle grease, it might compromise the epoxy. Stick to the shoe polish. Ive used sno-seal boot wax on 3 or 4 guns.

It doesn't take a lot. Think about where it can spread to and plan to prevent anything that can lock it in. I use a u shaped gouge to create paths for it to flow. If you have an open magwell, I run a couple of paths to that. I'd rather it flowed there than up out of the stock. Paint your action screws well with release agent too.

I used JBWeld to bed the barrel tang on a 700 barrel into a Boyds wood laminate stock. Used masking tape as a spacer and PAM as a release agent. Worked well.

Dave DeLaurant said:

I've nothing against JB, but I have to admit that I've been pretty happy with Brownell's AcraGlas Gel. Given what I have to shell out for other shooting paraphernalia I'm OK with the retail price. It usually takes me 3-4 projects to use up one kit, as it keeps pretty well unmixed and makes an excellent adhesive for general stock repairs as well as bedding jobs.

In the past I have tried using off-the-shelf generic epoxies to fill stock voids. Some of these turned out to have a rather rubbery texture after curing, so when in doubt do a test blob first.

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Acraglas is all I've used and also keep it around as a general purpose, high strength epoxy for other applications. Some of the strongest stuff I've ever used.

lobo9er said:

what would be a good release agent?

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2 layers of car wax , with a last shot over everything of Pam non stick cooking spray for extra release protection.

FYI, Brownell's catalog a variety of DIY glass bed kits. I suggest you check them out online. I 've used two of their Accuglass kits and was 100% satisfied with them, plus they were easy to use.

I've used JB Weld several times and it has worked really well. It took a 0.5 MOA rifle down to a consistent 0.3 MOA rifle. On two of the rifles, I used the Armor All that you use to put a shine on your car tires. I applied it several times to the metal parts. If things end up getting stuck, take a hot clothes iron and place it on the top of the receiver to put some heat into the metal. This will expand the receiver and help release it from the JBW.

There is one school of thought that JBW will soften when heated but I have seen it hold up on car oil pans, so I trust it.

On the other spectrum, put your gun in the freezer if it gets stuck.

Alaskan Ironworker said:

On the other spectrum, put your gun in the freezer if it gets stuck.

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Thats what ive done.

I'd like to see pictures of the finished product

Lonewolf and I are on the same page. Just be sure to get a good coat of release agent on it. I used car paste wax. I did stick a barreled action in a walnut stock once and tried a tip from on of my old gunsmith books. I put it in the freezer overnight, put in a vice the next morning and freed it with on light smack of the mallet.

I have used the Brownell's Acraglass kits and also like Devcon and I add stainless steel powder. Any of several release agents will work including mold release used in injection plastics. Good old modeling clay for filling in the voids. I have also used the freezer trick. Think I still may have a few complete Brownell's Acraglass kits from about 25 years ago. Wonder how well that epoxy would work? Maybe they should just be trashed. Thinking I still have my bedding tools for doing M1A and M1 Garand rifles.

Ron