A question for 1911 shooters

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....They are tools to be used and will get scratched up.
Well, I suppose it depends on your attitude toward your tools. I take care of mine, and in return, they take care of me. I avoid using them in ways that will abuse them and I clean them up and lubricate them if needed before I put them away in their proper places.
 
Well, I suppose it depends on your attitude toward your tools. I take care of mine, and in return, they take care of me. I avoid using them in ways that will abuse them and I clean them up and lubricate them if needed before I put them away in their proper places.

I am not saying that I abuse my tools but I also won't lose any sleep over a minor scratch either.

When I was in the Army and had to depend on my 1911A1 as my sidearm, scratches were the least of my worries. I'm pretty sure that the sand storms that would last 2-4 days at a time pretty much sandblasted my 1911A1 and my M60 along with every other weapon and vehicle.

And I still have that frame of mind about all of my firearms. All of my handguns have some type of wear marks on them whether it is from actual use or taking them down for cleaning along with some bit of holster wear.

Like I said. to each their own man. If you want a pristine safe queen more power to you. Me, I want something that works and functions 100% of the time and won't loose any sleep over wear marks.
 
My FFL friend has a technique where he relieves the pressure on the plunger by putting the safety lever up, then getting the slide stop started. I've never done it and even tho he showed me I'm still fuzzy on how he does it.

I just push it straight in.
 
The way I was taught is to line up the link on the barrel and insert the slide stop, with the lever end hanging in the trigger guard. Once you have the link captured, simply lift the slide stop up slightly, so it doesnt drag on the frame, and align it with the slide stop plunger on the frame. Then push the slide stop home.

Occasionally, youll get a gun that the stop gets hung up on the plunger, and you might need a small tool/screwdriver, ect, to depress the plunger slightly, and it will go right in after that.

No chance of dragging the arc, if you dont push the slide stop against the frame trying to get it in the gun.


Exactly my technique as well.
 
My FFL friend has a technique where he relieves the pressure on the plunger by putting the safety lever up, then getting the slide stop started. I've never done it and even tho he showed me I'm still fuzzy on how he does it.
How does he push the safety up with the slide back to the point where you can line up the slide stop assembly notch?
 
I would think if you put pressure on the safety side of the spring, the pressure on the slide stop side would be heavier. Or am I missing something here?
 
Yeah, I am deeply on the side of who cares if you scratch it and calling it the "idiot mark" is accusing JMB of being dumb. Either he didn't care, or it's a design flaw.

The most interesting (to me) historically relevant combat 1911s I have seen have scratches there, and wear all over.
 
The scratch really has no bearing on the gun's function. Its unfortunate, and looks like crap.

The fact its there does show a lack of knowledge on the owner's part though on how to properly reassemble the gun.

Look at it this way, you have two boys working on your car, each wearing a big rodeo belt buckle. One is smart enough to know to take that crap off before he starts work, and still puts a padded mat on the fender of your nice new Beemer, while the boy other couldnt care less. Its just a scratch, right? :)

Honest wear is one thing, doing stupid ****, something else.
 
How does he push the safety up with the slide back to the point where you can line up the slide stop assembly notch?
Like I said, I'm fuzzy on how he does it, but he does. I think you push the slide stop most of the way in with the slide forward and the safety up, then once it's started you flip the safety down and move the slide back to the alignment notch. Like I said, I just push the thing straight in.
 
I would think if you put pressure on the safety side of the spring, the pressure on the slide stop side would be heavier. Or am I missing something here?
If you're referring to my post, then you have it backwards. Engaging the thumb safety takes the pressure off the spring, so it isn't as hard to jam the slide stop in at the other end.

I agree with your statement about it showing a lack of knowledge. I wouldn't pay full price for any 1911 with the scratch- it tells me the previous owner didn't take care of the gun. Carry scratches and battle scratches tell me the gun was carried and used, idiot scratch says the PO cannot follow simple instructions.
 
I have one final question for everyone.

How many of you actually carried and used a 1911 in combat?

I have several times and an "idiot mark" was the least of my worries and it wasn't do to a lack of knowledge on how to assemble/reassemble the pistol either.

For those that want to keep their pistols pristine, more power to you. I am more concerned about a fully function pistol for when it matters.
 
If you're referring to my post, then you have it backwards. Engaging the thumb safety takes the pressure off the spring, so it isn't as hard to jam the slide stop in at the other end.

I agree with your statement about it showing a lack of knowledge. I wouldn't pay full price for any 1911 with the scratch- it tells me the previous owner didn't take care of the gun. Carry scratches and battle scratches tell me the gun was carried and used, idiot scratch says the PO cannot follow simple instructions.
Maybe Im confused. The spring involved here has a plunger at both ends, one for the safety, one for the slide stop. Its the same spring for both.

As I said, it seems to me, if the safety is applying pressure to one end of the spring, the other end must be bearing the brunt of that, and the plunger on the slide stop end would be harder to depress. Would it not?

Or am I missing something?
 
Thinking on this some more, are you saying that the pressure comes off when the plunger goes into the detent on the safety? If so, I can see your point.
 
OK, you made me go look. Something wasnt making sense. :)

The saftey plunger is in the detent when the safety is off. So thats where its supposed to be. As was mentioned by someone above, you cant line up the stop with the notch in the slide, with the safety engaged. So, the safety has to be "off", while you install the slide stop.
 
I have one final question for everyone.

How many of you actually carried and used a 1911 in combat?

I have several times and an "idiot mark" was the least of my worries and it wasn't do to a lack of knowledge on how to assemble/reassemble the pistol either.

For those that want to keep their pistols pristine, more power to you. I am more concerned about a fully function pistol for when it matters.

If I were carrying a 1911 in combat I wouldn't care one hoot about an idiot mark or any other mark for that matter. My only concern would be for a clean and functional 1911. However I'm not in combat so I have plenty of time to assemble my 1911's without scratching them by using correct procedures.
 
I have one final question for everyone.

How many of you actually carried and used a 1911 in combat?

I have several times and an "idiot mark" was the least of my worries and it wasn't do to a lack of knowledge on how to assemble/reassemble the pistol either.

For those that want to keep their pistols pristine, more power to you. I am more concerned about a fully function pistol for when it matters.
The idiot scratch says the person who assembled it doesn't know what they're doing, and if they don't know how that one part goes in, what other parts (that you can't see) are similarly installed wrong?

The parts you can see are what gives you confidence about the parts you can't see.

I carried the S&W Model 15 worldwide for many years. One check I always did when I was issued the gun was to open the cylinder, pull the cylinder release back, and lower the hammer with the trigger, holding it to make sure the firing pin protruded through. Apparently there was one gun in rotation for a while with a firing pin that did not protrude. So if it was ever needed it would have failed to fire. If you're taking care of your own gun it's one thing, if someone you don't know is taking care of your gun it's something very different. That's how I view the scratch- I don't trust the parts I can't see, based on the parts I can because the person that fiddled with it last doesn't know what they're doing.
 
How many of you actually carried and used a 1911 in combat?
I spent a decade as a tanker carrying 1911s on a couple of continents. I've used them as hammers and as last ditch, get-off-my-back-deck tools. Kept them as clean and as well oiled as possible given the circumstances. All of our 1911s were ugly rattle traps. They were provided by the tax payers so we didn't go out of our way to baby them. We had more important things occupying our time.

These days I have to spend my own money on such things. As a result, I take very good care of them probably out of a sense of pride of ownership and also because I want them to work all the time, under any conditions, without excuse. While I agree that the bottom line is that they're just tools, having a rusty, dinged up pistol is no red badge of courage.
 
WOW I guess I stepped on a few toes here. And it seems things sure have changed recently with this forum.

Like I said, to each their own. And YES I do know how to properly assemble a 1911. Hell I have actually worked on them while in the Army and have even built a few since getting out of the Army.

For those that say people don't know what they are doing if they put "an idiot mark" on their 1911's need to take a step back and reevaluate things.

Myself, I was a machinist in the Army (after my first enlistment) and the armorers would bring stuff to me to fix when a simple parts change would not take care of any issue. I am also a retired machinist/tool and die maker along with a gunsmith. And yes I have built a few weapons systems from the ground up while in the Army and as a civilian. So don't judge people when you do NOT know what their experiences actually are.
 
For those that say people don't know what they are doing if they put "an idiot mark" on their 1911's need to take a step back and reevaluate things.

Well, pardon me for my thinking but doesn't the mark indicate that they don't know what they are doing whatever their experiences are? Of course there is also the excuse that they just don't care and from the answers given I can see that some don't.
 
So, are you telling us you routinely put the marks on the guns you build, or no?

No I don't do that on purpose, But I sure won't loose any sleep if it does happen on accident either.

Well, pardon me for my thinking but doesn't the mark indicate that they don't know what they are doing whatever their experiences are? Of course there is also the excuse that they just don't care and from the answers given I can see that some don't.

No it does NOT necessarily mean that someone doesn't know what they are doing. Accidents do happen.

And actually I do care and I do take care of all my tools and forearms. What I am saying is that I won't lose sleep over getting a scratch on a tool or firearm.

And we all know what ASSUME really means! So don't assume someone does not know what they are doing without know anything about that person or what kind of experiences that have.
 
I understand accidents can happen, but if you do things properly, you minimize that chance considerably.

Just a thought, but how many guns have you ever seen come from the factory or one of the custom builders that had the "mark"? :thumbup:
 
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