Back To Basis (SAA Version)

Status
Not open for further replies.

Mr. Mosin

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2019
Messages
2,087
Community... I am in need of help. I have recently acquired a single action .22LR revolver (Ruger Wrangler) via Christmas generosity. Apparently I've been shootin' wrong all my life, because I appear to be absolutely incompetent. My "groups" at 15 paces would possibly be adequate for defensive purposes, but nowhere near adequate for target work, plinking, or hunting. Would someone be so kind as to either link me to a "back to basics" thread regarding SAA and revolver technique, or be generous enough to educate this poor sod ?
 
Community... I am in need of help. I have recently acquired a single action .22LR revolver (Ruger Wrangler) via Christmas generosity. Apparently I've been shootin' wrong all my life, because I appear to be absolutely incompetent. My "groups" at 15 paces would possibly be adequate for defensive purposes, but nowhere near adequate for target work, plinking, or hunting. Would someone be so kind as to either link me to a "back to basics" thread regarding SAA and revolver technique, or be generous enough to educate this poor sod ?
That architecture of revolver holds *funny* for most anyone new to it - at least when they go to shoot it.

Have you tried eliminating yourself from the equation to see it isn't the pistol or pistol/ammo combo?

Try the firmest rest possible and also get someone else to fire it to compare.

Shortest answer is look at a half-dozen utoob videos to get a start. No one really has THE technique and the way the firearm is held should compliment the manner in which you prefer to cock the action.

I've found contrary to most that a *relatively* loose grip works on all my SA revolvers.

Too, there's those "sights" that take some getting used to.

Todd.
 
That architecture of revolver holds *funny* for most anyone new to it - at least when they go to shoot it.

Have you tried eliminating yourself from the equation to see it isn't the pistol or pistol/ammo combo?

Try the firmest rest possible and also get someone else to fire it to compare.

Shortest answer is look at a half-dozen utoob videos to get a start. No one really has THE technique and the way the firearm is held should compliment the manner in which you prefer to cock the action.

I've found contrary to most that a *relatively* loose grip works on all my SA revolvers.

Too, there's those "sights" that take some getting used to.

Todd.
My pinky is under the grip, grasped relatively high on the backstrap, with my grip firm but loose. Front post is centered and level with the rear notch.
 
Within reason but, I still have to distinctly re-orient myself to firing my; SAA, 1858 Remington and percussion Colts over pretty much all my other revolvers and most certainly my semis.

Have you only used a single type of ammunition?

Todd.
Federal 40grn match. Gonna try some CCI a and few others tomorrow.
 
Shooting a more responsive or interactive target is more fun and meaningful.
I like clay birds on edge, like a small plate.
Paint the front site so the tip will just fill the rear site (this may vary slightly by load).
White nail polish works well. Once set up, practice aiming. Sit in your easy chair, or porch, deck, outhouse- where ever you can and just aim your gun. Do this a lot. Aim at stuff while watching TV (if you do that).
When you practice with live fire, only shoot a few cylinders- half a dozen at most.
Soon you won't worry about your group.
 
Shooting a more responsive or interactive target is more fun and meaningful.
I like clay birds on edge, like a small plate.
Paint the front site so the tip will just fill the rear site (this may vary slightly by load).
White nail polish works well. Once set up, practice aiming. Sit in your easy chair, or porch, deck, outhouse- where ever you can and just aim your gun. Do this a lot. Aim at stuff while watching TV (if you do that).
When you practice with live fire, only shoot a few cylinders- half a dozen at most.
Soon you won't worry about your group.
Would white-out work ?
 
White-out works.

Tucking the pinky is what I've always done. I also hold them somewhat loosely... which shouldn't matter either way with a 22.

There is really no need to hold it high on the backstrap with a 22.

Tiny little sights like that are hard to get used to.
 
White-out works.

Tucking the pinky is what I've always done. I also hold them somewhat loosely... which shouldn't matter either way with a 22.

There is really no need to hold it high on the backstrap with a 22.

Tiny little sights like that are hard to get used to.
I thought as much. I am extraordinarily glad for this gift. Let's me learn on the cheap, and figure out what I do/don't want in a proper carry gun.
 
If possible you might want to rest your elbows on a bench or something.

It's easier for me to figure out what's going wrong if alternate a bit between that and standing with the handgun unsupported.
 
My pinky is under the grip, grasped relatively high on the backstrap, with my grip firm but loose. Front post is centered and level with the rear notch.

Others will disagree, but I think the pinky-under-the-grip, grip is a bad idea unless you have enormous hands and have no other choice. The pinky under the grip means you're essentially holding the revolver with two fingers.

35W
 
OP, I almost never shoot at paper for groups. Only when testing new loads or when I get a new gun so I have a base line for future reference.
I found with my many rimfire SAs that painting the front sight blade was a huge help. White out works but I prefer neon orange nail polish applied over a coat of white nail polish.
I have wide hands so the pinky under the grip works for me.
A consistent trigger pull is paramount to precision when shooting without a rest.
Some may disagree but dry fire is your friend. Get some snap caps if you feel better but I believe the Wrangler is dry fire safe.
The only way to get better is to practice so keep working at it and it will come eventually. There isn't one specific right way to shoot any handgun. If there was we could all learn to shoot like J.M. (I wish.)
 
Would white-out work ?

"White out", yes - but it does not last long.
Inexpensive white or pearl nail polish works better - a dollar at the drug store kind.
Or you can get official sight paint - costs a lot more, doesn't work a lot better.
Perhaps sight paint color range is better?
I have also tried acrylic artist paint - nail enamel is more effective.
Even if you get the most costly nail paint, one vial will probably last a decade-
Then it will have dried out from low use.
 
Lots of shooters support "pinky under the grip", not sure I fully agree.
Reason... One's "pinky" is really a powerhouse, contributing to approx 1/3 of our grip strength.
Perhaps in 22RF, pinky under is ok. Larger calibers, I like to have the purchase of my pinky.
 
Sight Coloring:
Walmart - fingernail polish is cheap. Use white. Let it dry then coat with another bright color or just use white.
Hobby or Art shops - Testor’s paints. Inexpensive and holds up well. Same thing, use white to bring out any top coat color.
For both nail polish and paint use some fine (as in size) cheap art paint brushes to apply.

As for single action shooting style vs accuracy I have found that I can shoot a single action more accurately one handed. I have no idea why. But, for a .22 I do not think it matters as the gun doesn’t roll in your hand.
Try what @ApacheCoTodd recommended. Rest the gun and see if it’s you or the gun.
 
The Ruger (RED) grip is small for me and I don't have big hands. I do see what you're saying 35 Whelen.

Mike
 
Last edited:
Here is the Army Marksmanship Unit description of a proper grip:


3. Method of getting the proper grip: The proper grip must conform to all of the foregoing requirements plus it must be a hard grip and it must be adapted to the hand of the individual shooter. NOTE: FOR THIS INSTRUCTION IN OBTAINING THE PROPER GRIP, THE WEAPON IS THE .45 CALIBER SERVICE PISTOL. THE FOLLOWING STEP-BY-STEP SEQUENCE WILL PROVIDE THE PROPER GRIP: a. With the non-shooting hand, pick up the pistol by the barrel and of the slide, being careful not to mar the blackened sight and keep the muzzle pointed down range. b. Spread the index finger and thumb of the shooting hand apart to form a "V", with the thumb held slightly lower than the index finger. c. Bend the wrist slightly downward to obtain proper angle of contact. d. Fit the pistol into the "V" of the thumb and index fingers by seating the grip safety straight and firmly into the loose "web" of akin in the "V". e. Press downward on the barrel to pivot and push the mainspring housing firmly against the inside of the bulge of flesh at the base of the thumb and into the depression in the approximate center of the heel of the palm. f. Stretch the fingers forward, letting the trigger finger come to rest flat against the pistol frame just above the trigger guard. Safety dictates the trigger not be contacted at this time. g. The lower three fingers should come to rest closely touching each other, with the center bone of each finger resting on the curved front surface or "front strap" of the receiver. Little or no pressure should be exerted on the finger tips extending around the front strap to the surface of the left handgrip. Pressure exerted on the front strap by the little finger should be lighter than that brought to bear by the middle and ring fingers. Too much pressure with the little finger may cause the muzzle to depress slightly, resulting in the front sight aligning low in the rear sight notch. h. The thumb should be raised to a level higher than the index or trigger finger. Only the joint at the middle of the thumb is high against the stock in the vicinity of the slide safety. The end of the thumb is turned up and away from the stock as it has no function. Pressure exerted on the aide of the pistol by the end of the thumb has a tendency to disturb sight alignment. The thumb should be raised to a level higher than the index or trigger finger. Only the joint at the middle of the thumb is high against the stock in the vicinity of the slide safety. The end of the thumb is turned up and away from the stock as it has no function. Pressure exerted on the aide of the pistol by the end of the thumb has a tendency to disturb sight alignment. The thumb should not exert great pressure on the aide of the pistol as early fatigue will result. Only required substantial supporting force should be exerted to hold the weapon firmly in place in the shooting hand. i. A controlling grip can be affected by the three lower fingers directing primary pressure on the front strap straight to the rear, pressing the mainspring housing and grip safety firmly against the side of the center depression and the heel of the palm at the base of the thumb, and the loose flesh in the "V" of the thumb and index finger, respectively. This can be compared to a vise with the inner surfaces of the palm as the stationary jaw of the vise and the three lower fingers pressing on the front strap of the pistol as the moving jaw.
 
MB,

That is intended for someone shooting a 1911, one handed, at bullseye targets at 25 and 50 yards. Not a good one on one transfer to shooting a 22 single action revolver at clay birds, soft drink cans, or targets of opportunity which is what most folks do with 22s.

Mosin,

Accuracy with a handgun is always, ALWAYS, about trigger control. With good trigger control you can hit with a poor or "improper" grip. With poor trigger control it doesn't matter how good your grip is, or anything else for that matter.

How do you learn trigger control? Best way I've found is intense and I do mean intense focus on the front sight. Watching it all through the trigger pull will tell you what your trigger control is like. If the front sight stays centered on the intended target (or aiming point with fixed sights) you will hit. If the front sight moves (twitches, jerks, wobbles too much) you won't hit.

Practice, then practice some more. You will get better if you focus on that front sight.

YMMV,
Dave
 
Here is the Army Marksmanship Unit description of a proper grip:


3. Method of getting the proper grip: The proper grip must conform to all of the foregoing requirements plus it must be a hard grip and it must be adapted to the hand of the individual shooter. NOTE: FOR THIS INSTRUCTION IN OBTAINING THE PROPER GRIP, THE WEAPON IS THE .45 CALIBER SERVICE PISTOL. THE FOLLOWING STEP-BY-STEP SEQUENCE WILL PROVIDE THE PROPER GRIP: a. With the non-shooting hand, pick up the pistol by the barrel and of the slide, being careful not to mar the blackened sight and keep the muzzle pointed down range. b. Spread the index finger and thumb of the shooting hand apart to form a "V", with the thumb held slightly lower than the index finger. c. Bend the wrist slightly downward to obtain proper angle of contact. d. Fit the pistol into the "V" of the thumb and index fingers by seating the grip safety straight and firmly into the loose "web" of akin in the "V". e. Press downward on the barrel to pivot and push the mainspring housing firmly against the inside of the bulge of flesh at the base of the thumb and into the depression in the approximate center of the heel of the palm. f. Stretch the fingers forward, letting the trigger finger come to rest flat against the pistol frame just above the trigger guard. Safety dictates the trigger not be contacted at this time. g. The lower three fingers should come to rest closely touching each other, with the center bone of each finger resting on the curved front surface or "front strap" of the receiver. Little or no pressure should be exerted on the finger tips extending around the front strap to the surface of the left handgrip. Pressure exerted on the front strap by the little finger should be lighter than that brought to bear by the middle and ring fingers. Too much pressure with the little finger may cause the muzzle to depress slightly, resulting in the front sight aligning low in the rear sight notch. h. The thumb should be raised to a level higher than the index or trigger finger. Only the joint at the middle of the thumb is high against the stock in the vicinity of the slide safety. The end of the thumb is turned up and away from the stock as it has no function. Pressure exerted on the aide of the pistol by the end of the thumb has a tendency to disturb sight alignment. The thumb should be raised to a level higher than the index or trigger finger. Only the joint at the middle of the thumb is high against the stock in the vicinity of the slide safety. The end of the thumb is turned up and away from the stock as it has no function. Pressure exerted on the aide of the pistol by the end of the thumb has a tendency to disturb sight alignment. The thumb should not exert great pressure on the aide of the pistol as early fatigue will result. Only required substantial supporting force should be exerted to hold the weapon firmly in place in the shooting hand. i. A controlling grip can be affected by the three lower fingers directing primary pressure on the front strap straight to the rear, pressing the mainspring housing and grip safety firmly against the side of the center depression and the heel of the palm at the base of the thumb, and the loose flesh in the "V" of the thumb and index finger, respectively. This can be compared to a vise with the inner surfaces of the palm as the stationary jaw of the vise and the three lower fingers pressing on the front strap of the pistol as the moving jaw.


Yeah, but a tall hammer swinging in a long arc in a gun with a small curved grip that must have seemed comfortable to people in the 19th century is a slightly different ball of wax.

My biggest hurdle shooting modern SAA clones with heavy-ish factory triggers and small grips (Ruger, cough . . . cough) was dealing with the long lock time. I really had to up my game on follow through to shoot these guns as well as double action revolvers or full size autoloaders.

Now, put a Colt SA clone revolver in my hand with a good trigger . . . so much easier to shoot well with less practice than a currently made out of the box Ruger single action. IMO, of course.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top