Did I ruin my die?

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I have zero comfort about disabling a round using oil or anything else. Risk vs reward is a large part of this reloading experience and technical skill and understanding is all the barrier we have to major disasters. Know your skill and act accordingly.
I was referring to primers and fact it has been discussed elsewhere. Not suggesting one do it or not do it.
 
I’ve read elsewhere (on this forum I believe) that soaking in penetrating oil did work, but your experience is different? What did you use?

Motor Oil, water, gun oil, ammonia, simple green. and I forget the other stuff. I came away thinking that these CCI primers were "bulletproof." Also not to be controversial, but I have satisfactorily deprimed quite a few live primers. Please note --
I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THAT TO ANYONE.
 
Motor Oil, water, gun oil, ammonia, simple green. and I forget the other stuff. I came away thinking that these CCI primers were "bulletproof." Also not to be controversial, but I have satisfactorily deprimed quite a few live primers. Please note --
I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THAT TO ANYONE.
No whiskey?

I’ve seen Kroll eat its way into unlikely places. I’m not suggesting anyone try but I can’t imagine it not working.

I too have decapped live primers mistakenly.
 
Am I missing something? Why not drive it out from the bullet end towards the primer end with a brass punch? This seem a rather straight forward problem?
The major reason I'm reading is fear. Afraid someone's method might cause the round to go off. No, I would not try to pound the cartridge through, nose first, and I don't think I'd want to get the case hot with a drill or lathe. But other than that is is just a piece of brass stuck in a steel tube. I'm confident I could get the round out of the die without loosing any fingers...

(and I'd suggest one learn to adjust their dies, learn the "plunk test" and if a handload is too large to chamber freely, find out why and remedy the situation)
 
So have you got it out yet? I think you need to take the powder and primer out even if you throw the die away. I expect the die will be fine but that is not the main consideration until the bullet is dismantled. I picture of what you have to solve would be very interesting to many of us.
 
Screw it in the press upside down with the adjustment knob and internal parts out of it. Use a brass rod on top of the ram to slowly press the case back out of the die. No contact with the primer. Pressing on the bullet is a non-issue as long as you are not “hitting” on the primer. The worst thing that might happen is you might press the carbide sizing ring out of the FCD.

Again, like everybody here, I have not seen a pic of the die and am going on your description.
I see you may just throw out the stuck die...
 
You did bury it didn't you.

Like I said earlier, send it to me I will cut it out on my lathe. What kind of powder is in it? I would drill a small hole off the side to remove the powder before working on it.

Have you tried some freeze cycles on it to loosen it up? Putting it in a deep freeze will shrink the die/bullet. Since brass does not spring back the same it will loosen the grip. I would be very cautious of use a kinetic type puller. The primer may go off if it pops out on impact.
 
I still don't understand why the round is stuck in the FCD die. The FCD die can be used as a debulger. I have not used the 9mm FCD for it, but have used the 40s&w FCD as a debulger.

I assume you used the FCD to crimp the round. So even after using the FCD to crimp the round, the round still did not want to go into the case gauge?

I have never pushed a live round through a debulder/FCD. What tool did you use to push it through? This is what I use. The primer should be protected.
p-1210.jpg

Sometimes a round will be difficult to push through the die, so I normally use Unique case lube before debulging any cases.

Be safe.
 
Maybe I missed something, but shouldn't case bulges be dealt with, far down the line, in QC, back around the decapping process,
way before you start priming and loading ?
 
come on man, we can’t give moderately dangerous advice that would work. Us reloading vets are supposed to be a good influence on neebies. I mean, don’t take a backwards 4” stud nail and bang it out
So you don't want to hear about a 7 Rem. mag. a guy brought to be with a stuck live round in the chamber? He already had everything known to man stuck in the bbl too. (wood)

I ended up having to remove the bbl., putting it in a vice (my shop was VERY rural) and cooking the round off with a propane torch that was clamped, pointed in the right direction AND NO ONE anywhere near the whole process.

Clearing the bbl. was easy, once the stuck case blew out when the primer went off!

OK, I won't tell you about it...

DM
 
So you don't want to hear about a 7 Rem. mag. a guy brought to be with a stuck live round in the chamber? He already had everything known to man stuck in the bbl too. (wood)

I ended up having to remove the bbl., putting it in a vice (my shop was VERY rural) and cooking the round off with a propane torch that was clamped, pointed in the right direction AND NO ONE anywhere near the whole process.

Clearing the bbl. was easy, once the stuck case blew out when the primer went off!

OK, I won't tell you about it...

DM
Ok so don’t tell me this either...how far and with what force and volume did it cook off?
 
So you don't want to hear about a 7 Rem. mag. a guy brought to be with a stuck live round in the chamber? He already had everything known to man stuck in the bbl too. (wood)

I ended up having to remove the bbl., putting it in a vice (my shop was VERY rural) and cooking the round off with a propane torch that was clamped, pointed in the right direction AND NO ONE anywhere near the whole process.

Clearing the bbl. was easy, once the stuck case blew out when the primer went off!

OK, I won't tell you about it...

DM
Redneck engineering at it's best! Hope you had someone watching and said, "Hold my beer...." ;) Woulda been fun to watch.
 
So you don't want to hear about a 7 Rem. mag. a guy brought to be with a stuck live round in the chamber? He already had everything known to man stuck in the bbl too. (wood)

I ended up having to remove the bbl., putting it in a vice (my shop was VERY rural) and cooking the round off with a propane torch that was clamped, pointed in the right direction AND NO ONE anywhere near the whole process.

Clearing the bbl. was easy, once the stuck case blew out when the primer went off!

OK, I won't tell you about it...

DM
Thats what I’m talking about! Clamp it down, got the propane torch..... run!!!
 
9mm Luger uses a tapered case.
For 'bulge busting' 9mm Luger, you use a 9mm Makarov die.
I have the 9 Mak die, but find it easier just to scrap the offending brass.

I will have to take your word for it, but here are my comments:

The whole case is pushed through the FCD body only, basically through the carbide ring. This means that the carbide ring should have an inside diameter larger than the cartridge specs. Following are the SAAMI specs for 9mm and 9x18 Makarov.
9mm.PNG
9x18mak.PNG

The largest diameter for the 9mm cartridge is .394 - .010 and the largest diameter for the 9x18 MAK is .392 - .010.

You would think the carbide ring inside diameter for the 9mm should be at least .002 larger than the 9x18 MAK.
 
Ok so don’t tell me this either...how far and with what force and volume did it cook off?
I leaned a piece of plywood over it and walked away... It took about three times longer to cook off, than I thought it would.

The ply had a small dent in it and the case was laying a few feet away... that's it no drama...

Sure was a HAPPY customer when he came back though... lol

DM
 
I will have to take your word for it, but here are my comments:

The whole case is pushed through the FCD body only, basically through the carbide ring. This means that the carbide ring should have an inside diameter larger than the cartridge specs. Following are the SAAMI specs for 9mm and 9x18 Makarov.
View attachment 971521
View attachment 971522

The largest diameter for the 9mm cartridge is .394 - .010 and the largest diameter for the 9x18 MAK is .392 - .010.

You would think the carbide ring inside diameter for the 9mm should be at least .002 larger than the 9x18 MAK.
One would think that, I agree. But, I’ve been beguiled by others on this forum and just bought a Mak FCD for use as a de-bulger. It works but haven’t tried it on a loaded round:) Looking forward to responses to your post.
 
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