Hunting with Blackpowder

"Likely" not well -- since a sidelock's cap is relatively mild compared to an in-lines's shotgun
209 primer; and the flash channel takes a left turn to come in from the side of the pellet instead
of straight on to the base.

No BP available ?

I'm not even sure about loose pyrodex. It is harder to ignite than good old black powder.

Huntin said:

I have a traditional side hammer CVA Frontier Carbine muzzleloader rifle and was wondering if I could use the powder pellets in it with a #11 percussion cap?

Click to expand...

There are two options....IF all you can get is pellets, but there are actually four options...

1) get real black powder (OK so your post didn't mention getting that so let's go with it's unavailable where you are right now)
2) get loose Pyrodex. It's meant to be set off with percussion caps, as it's the original black powder substitute. Flintlocks being not as hot as caps, have troubles but caplocks, generally do not.
3) You can simply test fire the rifle with the pellet. The pellet limits your powder variation though. IF it properly goes off a couple times in a row, it will probably work. If not, at least you know....
4) Try to get a hold of a Mag Spark primer adapter, to convert your sidelock to use primers instead of caps. https://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/mag-spark.html#pricing-information



LD

My 50 cal flintlock's instruction manual indicated that a 5 gr charge of teal black powder be used as a starter charge when using black powder substitutes. I tried it for a while, decided I didn't like substitute powders and have been shooting real black powder ever since.

I like real blackpowder better but I have used pyrodex select with minimal problems in my caplock quite a bit. I wouldn't mess with pellets but any of the loose powder substitutes should be ok if you do proper maintenance.

Pyrodex is a pain in the butt if your hunting anytime - below zero F.

Ive been hunting alot more with a BP Flint Fusil Fowler on small game, just because
Its often cold, so Ive worked out the Pyrodex "Hard to ignite" problem.
I prime that with real BP and use Pxrodex as the main charge, and with percussion I will make the main charge Pyrodex and tap some real BP into the nipples for s sure ignition.

Ive made a few pounds of my own BP and am happy with it in my cold climate. The last couple pounds of Pyrodex will likely get used in Spring time for most efficient use.

Pellets will not work in your gun unless you crush them at loading. Pellets are made for in-lines and some revolvers only. They are more expensive and less powerful than granular. Been there, tried that. Crushed one and dropped in # 2 and fired. #2 came out behind the bullet and looked like a roman candle.
Pyrodex can be a pain to shoot, however, run a patch and shoot a couple caps before loading will help or shoot a fouling shot (blank load). Duplex load with a couple of grains of Goex first will do wonders. Also a musket cap converter will give a hotter spark or a small rifle primer converter will also work. Winchester or Dixie makes hot magnum caps.
What are you trying to accomplish? My little group of mountain men have experimented with all sorts ideas for the past 30 years. Just ask.

I never cared for duplex loads. Just one more step that can be forgotten or worse. I only use real black powder, and don't have any problems getting the stuff to go boom with standard caps or my flint locks. Real black powder may be hard to get right now, but supplies will come back but probably at much higher prices.