A question for 1911 shooters

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Having put a small "idiot scratch" on my stainless Springfield the first time I disassembled and reassembled it (as per manual instructions and without first watching a YouTube "how-to" video - a stupid move I don't repeat) I now do use a precautionary intervention to insert the slide stop, usually a small screwdriver to depress the plunger when the slide is lined up. My other two 1911's aren't so tight as my Springfield and I can insert the stop without any tool-wise assistance.

If reassembling a new gun for the first time, I think the smartest move is to be cautious and don't be a hero.

My Springfield was only the third gun I ever bought, so forgive me for being stupid at the time.
Have you tried using a guitar pick rather than a screwdriver?
 
Have you tried using a guitar pick rather than a screwdriver?
No, I have only one remaining Fender pick from circa 1972, and at this point it's a personal heirloom and I'm not going to risk it. But otherwise, yes, a guitar pick should make an excellent plunger depresser and thanks for mentioning it, but I'll pass on trying it. ;)
 
A Fender pick from 1972? THAT'S pretty cool! I learned a long time ago to just groove the slide stop so it pushes the plunger out of the way like a fine lock. Idiot sctraches only happen when someone attempts to force the stop in and they do that because the plunger is too long and the stop lug runs into it like it was a wall instead easily pushing it aside. It's just sloppy manufacturing by the makers. Guys will say "Well, if the stop needed a groove cut in it then John Browning would have put one in it." When John Browning specced out a gun the plungers were all exactly the same length because they were required to use a blueprint and no one had to fight the plunger to get the stop in. Those days are gone. Now it's all "close enough for Govt. work"........
 
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I think that every 1911 I've ever bought was bought used. (My wife bought one brandy new.)
So most of mine have idiot marks.
And to be honest, many years ago, I put a few of them in place.
But also, many years ago, I learned how not to do so, so any future 1911s I own will not have them.
 
Most if not all of the 1911's I own or have owned, had the scratch before I got them, no biggie. There are bigger things to sweat over.

Come to think of it, the slide stop insert is a crap design that others like SIG, Beretta, and even Browning fixed.
 
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For a safe queen I can understand wanting it to look pristine but come on, guns are tools so why call it an idiot mark? Do you do something special with your hammer so the nail head doesn't mar it.
 
I've had a number of 1911's with honest hard use and daily "wear & tear" on them. None of them had that mark.

This isn't about the mark itself, it's why it's there. The marks on the guns above were earned and accepted. None of them were out of carelessness or ignorance. :thumbup:
 
If you are paying attention and push the stop straight in, there is no need for this. Maybe I'm misunderstanding.
 
If you are paying attention and push the stop straight in, there is no need for this. Maybe I'm misunderstanding.

I think you are.

Not EVERY slide stop from every maker WILL readily / easily go straight in. I fit all of mine that are difficult to a 1911 whether it already has the scratch or not. Not to avoid making the scratch, I don't give a *hoot (*a cautiously selected word) about the scratch, but just to make assembling easier.

All of this scratch whining and making disparaging remarks about it makes me wonder if peeps go to a plastic bushing wrench to avoid a scratch? Put in TORX, or allen screws to avoid scratching the grips with a screwdriver? Lining their holster with unborn calf to minimize finish wear? Maybe just leaving it in the safe to keep it pristine?

Egads... in guitar player fandom we have a saying "shaddup and play yer guitar" Maybe less obsessing and more shooting is in order?
 
I think you are.

Not EVERY slide stop from every maker WILL readily / easily go straight in.
That's correct. If you could push them all straight in you wouldn't need the modification that Steve in Allentown shared earlier.
 
I think you are.

Not EVERY slide stop from every maker WILL readily / easily go straight in. I fit all of mine that are difficult to a 1911 whether it already has the scratch or not. Not to avoid making the scratch, I don't give a *hoot (*a cautiously selected word) about the scratch, but just to make assembling easier.

All of this scratch whining and making disparaging remarks about it makes me wonder if peeps go to a plastic bushing wrench to avoid a scratch? Put in TORX, or allen screws to avoid scratching the grips with a screwdriver? Lining their holster with unborn calf to minimize finish wear? Maybe just leaving it in the safe to keep it pristine?

Egads... in guitar player fandom we have a saying "shaddup and play yer guitar" Maybe less obsessing and more shooting is in order?
Ok. I guess it’s just not an experience I’ve had then. I’ve owned a S&W 1911 and now own two Dan Wesson’s. In every case.......

I was scratching my head also, and had to test myself.

Grasping the slide in correct take down position, I could flip the safety up ever so slightly. It did seem to take some pressure off the detent and allowing it to drop in easier.

Course the gun used to test already has a relief notch in the slide stop.
I’ve done this ^^^ and had no problem getting the slide stop to pop right in. But maybe it’s just the guns I’ve owned, and didn’t even know there were ones out there that this didn’t work on. But It’s not like 3 1911s is a big sample.
 
A lot of the 1911 builders are now machining off a corner on the slide stop lug that allows you to push the slide stop straight in. Much less risk of the idiot scratch or the need for a card, tape, etc.
 
Mine (Colt mostly) seem to want the slide stop to be slightly below the plunger, and need to be pushed with an up and in motion, rather than straight in.
Moon
 
Neat trick. When I bought my first 1911 I didn't know any better and slid the slide stop into place a couple times. It wasn't until I was helping my dad clean guns and he saw me doing it to his. Boy did I get a what for and then he gave me a copy of the 1911 shop manual and a copy of Bill Wilson's book on maintaining the 1911. I read them both several times but don't recall this gem of a trick being mentioned.
 
Well well well.....I looked at my 1911 last night and lo and behold it has a mildly idiotic mark on it. In my defense (you knew I was gonna say that right?) - I bought it second, third or fourth hand (not sure). I know I always go straight in with it. When I say mild I mean hardly there and right under the lever and not all up the side of the frame.
 
If you have never seen a 1911 that would NOT allow the stop to be pushed straight into with no reststance then you have not handled very many 1911s. It is very common on MOST mass produced 1911s - believe me and it's why you see SO MANY frame scratches from guys fighting with them when they WON'T slip straight in. Encountering one with a correct length plunger that is easily pushed aside is much more unusual. Just sloppy manufacturing tolerances. You can either groove the stop's lug OR shorten and re radius the plunger tip so it hits the sloped part of the lug.
 
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I have had to fix a couple of 1911s where the slide stop was very hard or impossible to just push in. Might need to round and polish the plunger, might need to slightly mod the stop.

Some mag releases will bind on the mag if pushed in all the way, they shouldn't, but they can, I have fixed two of them, such as this Kimber mag release.

The "slot" the mag fits in/slides down through needed extending.
Kimber CDP Ultra Mag Release - Arrow.JPG
 
How many of you use a credit or playing card to put between the frame and slide stop of your 1911s when reassembling the gun?

Edited to ask: Why do you use it?

In all my many years of owning 1911's I never heard of this....makes good sense to me. Just got a high dollar Kimber and its HARD to get it without depressing the plunger with tiny screwdriver. Will give this a try. Thanks.
 
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