S&W model 27 Old or New?

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I have a question about values on Smith & Wesson model 27-2
When there are special issue runs for example when a revolver is available that says something like:
This is a special run by Smith & Wesson made for the Texas police fraternal order officers association
And the barrel has an inscription to that effect and there is like a inscribed insignia on the other side of the gun opposite where the Smith & Wesson insignia is does that increase or decrease the value?

It will increase the value if someone has ties or likes or wants that particular organization mentioned on the firearm. Other than that,no.
 
Shoot a Model 27 long enough and the inertia of the heavy cylinder will peen the locking notches. The old Model 27 charge holes were shorter then the L frame making some handloads shorter then desired. The heavy cylinder will also put more torque on the yoke if its loaded with speed or indifference. I'm not positive but the heavy cylinder may have contributed to creating more end play. Banger Punta owned and built is worse then modern production in my opinion.
Look at a Manhurin M-73 if you really worry about wearing out a revolver.

I have not heard of these issues before with the 27. Do you have photos or references regarding this?
 
Not a fan of the N-frame in general nor the Model 27
(I find it too big for decent DA shooting) but I have
read/heard that the heavy cylinder puts a strain
on the yoke, locking bolt and notches when doing fast DA
shooting.

True? I don't know.

But I remember Skeeter Skelton writing that
in DA shooting, the heavy cylinder actually
helps speed up the DA cycle.
 
IMG_20210218_144934544.jpg
After receiving so much helpful feedback from you guys I figured I owed this picture.
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Dan Wesson monson-made 8-in 715 I'd love to find a 6-in barrel for this as well.
Smith & Wesson 686 Plus seven shot seven inch Talo edition very accurate.
Smith & Wesson 27-2 nickel
Smith & Wesson 327 scandium most accurate of the bunch without an optic.
Smith & Wesson 627 5-in eight shot performance center.
Colts New edition king cobra a 3-inch very smooth nice carry piece or backup gun when black powder or bow hunting.

And I left a little space for my newly ordered Colt Pythonolts 4.25" I just ordered an hour ago:evil::thumbup:
 
Okay so I get that a special engraving or special set engraved for a certain group can raise the value for people interested in that group
But
For someone not interested in that group can it actually lower the value to someone who is simply interested in a revolver of that caliber and model? Or is it more of a neutral factor?
 
Okay so I get that a special engraving or special set engraved for a certain group can raise the value for people interested in that group
But
For someone not interested in that group can it actually lower the value to someone who is simply interested in a revolver of that caliber and model? Or is it more of a neutral factor?

I think most people would view it as a negative. From my view as a collector, I have zero interest in those sorts of guns, and all of the collectors I know feel the same way. Absent an anomalous bidding war between two people with a tie to the relevant organization, that sort of gun will generate a lower sale price on Gunbroker on average than the equivalent gun without the inscriptions.
 
I owned one and shot it a lot. I also have a well worn four screw model 29 that had some of the same issues. Three -8 625’s shot in competition.

Thanks. What do you mean “shot it a lot”? How many rounds would you say you shot before you noticed the problem?
I don’t doubt what you’re saying. I ask because I want to buy a 27 or a 586. I am leaning towards the 27.
 
Thanks. What do you mean “shot it a lot”? How many rounds would you say you shot before you noticed the problem?
I don’t doubt what you’re saying. I ask because I want to buy a 27 or a 586. I am leaning towards the 27.

Not trying to answer for @earplug, but I would just note that probably more important than the total number of rounds fired will be how the Model 27 is fired.

The N-frame cylinder is originally a .44-caliber cylinder, and it is particularly heavy when only bored out for .357 Mag. Fast DA shooting and/or fast cocking generates a great deal of angular momentum, given the weight of the .357 Mag. cylinder, and bringing the fast rotation of that unusually heavy cylinder to a dead halt imparts more force to the small bearing surfaces of the cylinder stop and bolt notch than the steel can bear without deformation. Oversized cylinder stops are readily available to replace the originals once the wear to the bolt notch results in a lockup that's too loose, so it's a known issue for potentially any S&W revolver subject to hard use, but particularly with the N-frame in .357 Mag.

I don't have my SCSW4 handy, and I don't have much experience with post-P&R S&Ws, but I believe the Model 27-5 introduced the longer cylinder stop notches that are more resistant to peening. It's going to be an issue to varying extents with any version of the Model 27, though, if the owner insists on frequent fast DA shooting or fast cocking.

I wouldn't worry about this if you aren't planning to run the gun fast. If you are, though, the 586's lighter cylinder will be considerably less susceptible to the problem.
 
This is the new hammer block that was designed in 1944. Not really, it is from a newer revolver, but this is what the new style looked like.. A stamped piece of sheet steel with a tab at the end twisted up 90 degrees.

During WWII, an S&W Victory with and older style hammer block was dropped from a height aboard a US Navy ship. The revolver fired on impact, killing a sailor. The Navy planned to switch to Colts, but S&W quickly came up with the new hammer block and was able to convince the Navy that the problem would not recur.
 
During WWII, an S&W Victory with and older style hammer block was dropped from a height aboard a US Navy ship. The revolver fired on impact, killing a sailor. The Navy planned to switch to Colts, but S&W quickly came up with the new hammer block and was able to convince the Navy that the problem would not recur.


I already described that incident in detail earlier. For the record, I have never seen any documentation of how far the revolver fell before hitting the deck. I have never seen any documentation of whether it fell from an upper deck, or whether it fell from someone's holster. I have also never seen any documentation about whether the sailor who was killed dropped it or whether somebody else dropped it. What I do know is that after the incident S&W conducted tests and determined that under the right circumstances it was possible for the second style of hammer block to fail if dropped from waist level.
 
Howdy Again

With all this talk about numbers of screws and pre-27 vs 27 I thought I would post a little bit of manufacturing history of The 357 Magnum and Model 27.
If you are talking about the checkering on the top strap and barrel rib, I don't think it has ever been eliminated. I had to do a lot of googling to find a photo of the recent Model 27 that S&W is offering in their Classic Line, but I did find one, and it clearly still has the checkering on the top strap and barrel rib. It certainly does not show up in the engineering changes that the checkering on the top strap and barrel rib was ever eliminated. Checkering on the top strap and barrel rib was one of the hallmarks of the original 357 Magnum revolver, and its successor the Model 27. No other production line S&W revolver has ever had the checkering on top of the top strap and barrel rib.

Perhaps you are thinking about the Model 28, and its predecessor the Highway Patrolman. The Model 28 was similar in every way to the Model 27, but it had a dull finish.

This photo shows the top strap of a Model 28 at the top, and a Model 27 at the bottom.

View attachment 978302




I do not feel qualified to answer your second question. The only Model 27 I own is my Model 27 no dash that left the factory in 1959. It is the only Model 27 I have ever fired, so I am not qualified to comment on other versions. I don't know anybody else who owns one, they are not exactly falling out of trees.

There is a funny story behind the box it came with. That is actually one of the The 357 Magnum boxes, not a Model 27 box. Smith and Wesson was famous for never throwing anything out. This is one of the 'gold' boxes that were in use from 1946 until 1965. It does not say Model 27 on it, it says The 357 Magnum Revolver on it. On the end of the box, Nickel Finish has been crossed out, and a sticker applied saying Blued Finish. Also, the box has 6 1/2" barrel printed on it, but this Model 27 has a 6" barrel. The box has Model 27 written in pen on the bottom, and the correct Serial Number has been written on the bottom of the box in grease pencil. Clearly, S&W was using up some old boxes when they shipped my Model 27.

View attachment 978303

As I believe I said earlier, The 357 Magnum began life in as a follow up to the 38/44 Heavy Duty and 38/44 Outdoorsman.

The Registered Magnums were only produced from 1935 until 1938 when the factory registration program was suspended. The 357 Magnum (non-registered) continued to be produced with less customization up until production was halted in 1941.

The 357 Magnum Postwar Transition revolvers were produced from 1946 through the end of 1949. There were only 142 of these produced. This model would have included the re-engineered hammer block inside.

357 Magnum 'Pre-Model' 27. A collector friend of mine likes to say there is no such thing as a Pre-anything. Instead of a Pre-Model 10, the correct name is simply 38 Military and Police Hand Ejector. Likewise he insists there is no such thing as a Pre- Model 27. The Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson by Supica and Nahas does call out a Pre-Model 27. These are specifically those 357 Magnums manufactured from 1950 until Smith and Wesson adopted a Model Number system in 1957. Physically, this model would have had the new Short Throw Hammers, which replaced the old Long Throw Hammers.

This 38/44 Outdoorsman has the old Long Throw hammer.

View attachment 978080




This Model 27 has the Short Throw hammer.

View attachment 978081


This photo illustrates the difference. The Short Throw hammer on the Model 14-3 at the top of the photo is at full cock. The Long Throw hammer on the 38 M&P Target Model at the bottom of the photo is also at full cock. Notice the Long Throw hammer is angled back further than the Short Throw hammer. With any double action revolver the position of the hammer at full cock will be somewhat further back than the position the hammer reaches when it is released in double action. That is simply because of the way that double action revolvers work. Anyway, the engineers at S&W realized that the hammer spring of any revolver has stored enough energy at the double action release point to fire a primer, and any more rearward motion of the hammer is overkill. So the Short Throw hammer was designed to go to full cock at less of an angle than the old Long Throw hammers.

View attachment 978082



As an aside, even though I prefer the older models, I actually prefer the Short Throw hammers on all the newer models. The gullet between the main body of the hammer and the hammer spur is much deeper on the Short Throw hammers, and the knurling is much more pronounced. I find on a hot day my sweaty thumb is more prone to slip off the hammer spur of a Short Throw hammer when I cock it single action. Even on the hottest summer days, that just does not happen with the deep gullet and sharp knurling of a short throw hammer.

End of Aside.

Anyway, that's the short story for Registered 357 Magnums, Non-Registered 357 Magnums, 357 Magnum Post War Transition revolvers and 'Pre-27' 357 Magnum revolvers. By the way, almost all of the above are five screw models, four screws to hold down the side plate and one screw in front of the trigger guard where the spring and plunger for the cylinder stop live. The 38/44 Outdoorsman pictured above shows the four side plate screws. The photo below shows the screw in front of the trigger guard on a typical five screw 38. The side plate screw at the top of the side plate near the hammer was eliminated in 1956 during 'Pre-Model' 27 production.

View attachment 978083




OK, 1957 was a banner year for Smith and Wesson because a Model Number naming system was adopted. The 357 Magnum in all of its versions became the Model 27.

S&W would add a dash number to model numbers to signify significant engineering changes. Often these changes would happen at the same time across all the many different models. Sometimes there was a bit of lag time with some models as old stock was used up before the engineering changes were instituted for a specific model. Also, generally speaking, engineering changes were instituted as a cost saving measure, to simplify production and thereby cut down on manufacturing cost.

Let's take a look at all the engineering changes for the Model 27 and the dates they happened. (Source SCSW) The comments in parenthesis are my own comments.

Model 27 (no dash) 1957. Change to the model numbering system.

27-1 (1960): Change extractor rod, right hand to left hand thread. (this change happened about this time across all S&W revolvers. Previously, unless the extractor rod was firmly torqued in place, the rotation of the cylinder tended to unscrew the extractor rod slightly. This would make the revolver difficult to open up because the thumb piece could not shove the internal spring plunger in the extractor rod quite far enough to disengage the spring plunger under the barrel. Reversing the direction of the thread fixed this, normal cylinder rotation tended to tighten the extractor rod rather than loosen it.)

27-2 (1961): Cylinder stop changed, eliminate trigger guard screw. (This changed the Four Screw Smiths to Three Screw Smiths. This is a change that saved production cost. Drilling and tapping a hole adds production cost. In addition, eliminating the screw in front of the trigger guard eliminated two parts from the parts list; the screw and the spring plunger. Personally, I hate taking the cylinder stop and spring out of a modern S&W revolver. With the old design it was simple to install the spring by slipping it into the hole, followed by its plunger and the screw. Now, it is easy to mash the spring out of shape while trying to wedge it in position when installing the spring.)

The photo below shows a cylinder stop spring wedged in position between the frame and the cylinder stop. Easy to mash the spring out of shape when removing it or installing it.

View attachment 978084




(1967): 6 1/2" barrel discontinued.

(1968): Delete diamond grip. (Several of the photos above show a diamond shaped area on the grip around the grip screw with no checkering. A few pennies were saved by eliminating that feature.)

1969: Change to "N" serial prefix.

1975: Target trigger, target hammer, Patridge front sight, on 6" and 8 3/8" barrels, introduced with Goncalo Alves target stocks and case.

This Model 19-3 from 1975 has oversized Goncalo Alves target stocks:

View attachment 978085




1979: 3 1/2" and 5" barrel discontinued. 4" introduced with red ramp and white outline rear sight.

1980: Target stocks standard.

27-3: (1982) Eliminate cylinder counterbore and pinned barrel. (This is the pinned and recessed so often referred to. Purely a cost savings move. Eliminating the pinned barrel eliminated several assembly steps. A tighter fitting thread on the barrel was used so the barrel would not unscrew. Eliminating the recessed couterbores eliminated a machining step.) Small change in cylinder length to 1.57"

1986: Discontinue nickel finish.

27-4 (1988): New yoke retention system/radius stud package/floating hand.

27-5 (1990): Longer stop notch in cylinder.

1992: Discontinue 4" and 8 3/8" barrel.

27-6 (1993): Hogue grips, drill and tap frame, change rear sight leaf, change extractor.

1994: Model 27 discontinued.

27-7 (2000) Performance Center version/8 shot, built on the N frame-with floating firing pin and extended frame lug-Special.

As can be seen, sometimes engineering changes rated a new dash number, some years not.


P.S. My Model 27 pictured above is a 27 No Dash. It left the factory in 1959. It is a Four Screw. Three screws holding down the side plate, one hiding under the top corner of the Magna style grips, and the screw in front of the trigger guard is not visible in that photo, but it is there.

Hey driftwood so I'm looking at three very early Smith & Wesson 357 magnums right around the model 27 designation year.
What would you say is better Functionally and which has better aesthetics and is more valuable considering three revolvers in similar well preserved condition?:a true 357 Smith & Wesson Magnum from the mid-1950s?
Or a 27 no dash? Or 27-2
Is what you wrote about the 27-2 having the different rotation of the extractor a strong argument in its favor?
 
I like old stuff.

If I were still actively buying revolvers, and I came across a 'pre-model 27' in good condition for a good price I would grab it. About the only thing still on my revolver bucket list these days is a Registered Magnum. No idea which has better functionality, I never buy a firearm I have not personally handled and inspected, so that would be how I would make my decision.

The left handed thread on the extractor rod is not an issue to me. I have oodles of Smiths that were made before the change was made. I can only recall it being a problem once. I could not open the cylinder of a 38 because the extractor rod had unscrewed a little bit and the plunger at the front of the extractor rod would not release. I was able to get a good enough grip on the extractor rod to screw it in enough that I could open the cylinder and tighten the rod all the way. Obviously S&W made the change because it was an issue. But I buy old revolvers all the time and don't give it a second thought.

But that's just me.
 
I knew it originated there and we “borrowed” the idea. Did not know it was so old. I remember reading about it in the “American Rifleman” during the 70s but it was strictly rifle. I am curious when they started wanging away at the chickens and rams with a handgun?

Kevin

Handgun Metallic Silhouette started in 1975 (if I recall correctly) and was the brain child of Lee Jarrus (sp?) of Super Vel fame, along with a few others. The first match was a two day affair held at the Tucson Rifle Club, West of Tucson. I was good friends with the overall winner, a man named Don Jeter who was shooting a 7.5" Ruger 44 Blackhawk (yes the original 3-screw Flat-top). His load was a bunch of H110 behind a hard cast 429421 bullet. Don was a "nobody" who handily beat all the well known shooters who expected to win.

I shot in it too with a 3-screw Super Blackhawk. I hadn't had a chance to carefully sight in for the distances as I signed up to compete at the last minute. I came in about the middle of the pack but wouldn't have beaten Don no matter how well I'd sighted in my 44. Don passed away in the late 1990s. He was a good friend, a veteran, and one heck of a handgun shooter.

Dave
 
For someone not interested in that group can it actually lower the value to someone who is simply interested in a revolver of that caliber and model? Or is it more of a neutral factor?

Not exactly the same thing, and some years ago, but...
When CAS was revving up here, a friend got a Colt SAA 125th anniversary commemorative in Royal Blue with gold small parts for considerably less than a standard Blue-Case Hardened sixshooter.
 
I will make the emphatic (but mostly indefensible) argument that, more than any other firearm venue, older (say, the late sixties and earlier) factory-made (Korth aside, perhaps) revolvers are not only better made and finished than newer ones, but that there are literally no newer revolvers made that approach the quality level of older ones; which is not the case when it comes to semi-auto pistols, shotguns or rifles.
 
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