Thermal monocular / scope recommendations.

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Dan Forrester

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Hello everyone, I’m planning to finally purchase some thermal here in the next few weeks and am looking for some suggestions.

My budget is $2,000 - $4,000. I would be willing to go a little higher, maybe up to $5,000 if it really would make a big difference. My main use will be security / outdoor recreation.

I am primarily thinking about getting a monocular as opposed to a rifle scope. My reasoning for this is that although I would love to hunt hogs / coyotes at night, I feel a monocular would be more usefully. There are just so many more places you can bring a monocular in a backpack that you can’t bring a thermal scope on a rifle.

However if the group here thinks that a rifle scope with a quick release picatinny mount could serve double duty as as a monocular I would love to have that extra versatility. I could even fashion a picatinny rail section with a pistol grip or something if that would even be practical.

My intended uses are the following:
  • Security at my suburban house. I live in an extremely safe area but fear what may unfold after November 3rd (regardless of who wins)
  • Out on my boat at night
  • On the beach at night spotting turtles and other wildlife.
  • On my sisters small farm to see what the dogs are barking at, what’s getting into the chicken coop or messing with the goats at night.
  • Going for walks at night. I have a large state park behind my house which has abundant wildlife. Since the days are so hot here in Florida I usually walk at night. I have just enough urban sky glow to see where I’m going but not enough to see what’s really out there.
  • Car camping out in the western US. I usually like to get out once a year and car camp with friends and family. We are usually out in Wyoming, Colorado or the Dakotas. The sky’s are really dark out there and I would love to see what’s lurking around.
Some features I’m looking for:
  • Ability to use external battery supply with preferably AA battery pack with eneloop batteries.
  • 640 resolution
  • 50-60 hz refresh rate for use from a moving vehicle
  • Some level of zoom. Not sure how much I need but I would like some zoom.
  • Waterproof, shock proof, salt water resistant.
  • Built in recording / ability to take pictures. This isn’t an absolute must but it seems like it would be a nice feature. Especially if it could use an external memory card.
  • Reputable company with good customer service.
Would appreciate any recommendations as to what models I should research.

Thanks,

Dan
 
My favorite for a pocketscope is still the one I own, the X series. Originally Raytheon, then L3, but now branded EO Tech. I have had a couple of models over the years, one I own now is the X320, but they make an X640 and the numbers should be self-explanatory. 30 Hz, but everything I have used is 30 or lower and I've never noticed an issue with it but maybe I am dumb on this.

Takes AAs which I find an absolute requirement. Floats I think maybe, at least very rugged case. VERY simple controls. Multiple view modes, and you can customize the sensitivity levels. Not sure EoTech makes a magnifier, but I have a simple clip-on Torrey Pines one that works very well, is easy to use.

It is only a pocketscope. Not usefully head mountable, etc.

You can get a cable to do off-device recording, but it doesn't have built in, and sometimes I miss that.
 
That is a really nice little monocular! Love the AA batteries also. Unfortunately it has been discontinued by Eotech and they no longer sell an equivalent model. I appreciate the suggestion however!

Thanks,

Dan
 
Did you ever make a decision? I’m researching the same. I’m leaning toward a Bering Optics Super Hogster. It fits mostly fits your criteria except for the 640 resolution.
 
Yes I did make a decision. I went with a PVS-14 from TNVC. I bought their L3 Harris Gen 3 un-filmed white phosphorus. It was a 20 week wait and just over 4 grand.

Im busy with work right now but will give everyone my thoughts and a little write up in a few days.

Thanks,

Dan
 
Sorry I didn’t see this thread 6 months ago.

pvs14 is not thermal. But it sounds like you bought from the most expensive reputable company and I’m going to guess you’re pretty happy with it since the l3 wp tubes are pretty nice.
 
Ok here are some random thoughts on my experience with a PVS-14 vs thermal keep in mind I’ve only read about thermal. Never owned one:
  • The PVS-14 is extremely analog. there is absolutely nothing “digital” about a PVS-14. I’m 40 years old and growing up we had a black and white tube television with an antenna. The PVS 14 is kind of like this.
  • The PVS-14 is a true optic. With thermal you are looking at a miniature computer monitor. With night vision you are actually looking through a piece of glass. Clarity is 100% once focused. I thought I had “ok” vision but with the PVS-14 my vision is perfect! I would imagine no matter how bad your vision is you should be able to focus this thing crystal clear! No worries about pixels or refresh rates that would be a consideration with thermal.
  • The night sky is truly incredible through the PVS-14! Even in my fairly urban area. The Orion Nebula is clear. I can individually see each star in the Pleiades since I can focus it so well. Anything red shows up really well! There are apparently many stars in the night sky that are emitting infrared light that you don’t know are there normally. An example of red showing up better is Betelgeuse (which is red) is as bright as Sirius (which is bluish white). Through the PVS14 both stars are equally as bright even though through the naked eye Sirius is a much brighter star. It’s also amazing how many satellites you can see! I never knew how much junk is floating around in space. Satellites you would normally never see light up shortly after sunset. I watched the Falcon 9 launch yesterday at 3am. It had a massive “twilight effect” all the way until engine cutoff and we were nowhere near twilight.
  • No matter what angle I hold my PVS-14 at or how close or how far I hold it from my face i’m looking through the optic and directly at the actual object my eyes are focused on. It’s like looking through a pane of glass. You can tilt the glass at any angle you want but the position of the object or the view through the view finder doesn’t change. From my understanding with thermal you are looking at a computer screen which is showing what the camera sees. If you tilt or pan the thermal what the camera is looking at changes and so will your view. I’m not sure what this type of optic is called but I’m sure there is someone here who can explain it better.
  • You can walk, ride a bike, read a map, read a book, pretty much anything you can do with natural light you can do with night vision. With thermal the print on the book will be the same temp as the paper so it won’t stand out. You could also walk right into a an armadillo hole with thermal if you were trying to navigate discretely since it’s the same temperature as the surrounding ground.
  • The PVS-14 can be both a monocular for just general use as well as a weapon sight with an infrared laser sight. The infrared lights and lasers work extremely well! You could never “run and gun” with a thermal. Not that I’m planning on doing any of that though. With the PVS-14 it is both a monocular and a weapon sight. The Infrared flashlights are great too. They light up animals eyes just like a normal flashlight would. Except the LED emits an invisible light. It’s pretty impressive!
  • The PVS-14 uses a signal AA battery which lasts forever. Thermal devices eat batteries since it is basically a computer running. I was looking at the Flir Breach for the thermal I was considering. I think the battery life on it was about an hour on a single 123a battery. The PVS-14 will go 50 hours on a single AA. Also no worry about over heating or cooling fans or computer start up lag time that I’ve read can be a consideration with thermal.
  • Thermal is the undisputed champion of identifying living objects! Things you would never see through night vision will glow white hot with thermal. With the PVS-14 anything you see in the day you will also see at night; except it’s only in shades of green. So a persons standing 100 yards away in the bushes might stand out in the day since his clothes and skin are a different color than the foliage. However at night through the PVS-14 he is just a different shade of green just like everyone else. So basically that guy standing in front of the bushes is effectively wearing camouflage.
  • Thermal is the future! The PVS-14 feels like really refined technology 1950s technology. It has reached its pinnacle. You probably can’t can’t push image intensification much further. It’s highly refined Buck Rogers stuff. Ive been looking at PVS-14s for 20+ years now and the generations and prices haven’t changed much at all. Think of how far thermal has come in the past 20 years and how much further it will developed in another 20. It will never be true image intensification though. To summarize: a top quality PVS-14 will be very relevant in 20 years however an equally priced thermal will be obsolete in 5 years.
  • Buying the PVS-14 is just the beginning. Now you need a bump helmet $500-$1,000, lasers for your rifle and pistol $500 each, helmet mount $400, IR flashlights $20-$300 each. The PVS-14 is the most expensive component but it is also just the beginning.
  • I would recommend investing in a PVS-14 or some high end night vision first. Don’t cheap out since it will last forever. Then once your night vision is squared away add on a cheap thermal. A $500 thermal will pick out living things easily. Once you have identified something living fire up the night vision and get a good clear sharp picture of it. Thermal will just keep getting better so every 5-10 years upgrade it with another cheap thermal monocular.
Those are my random thoughts. Let me know if anyone has any questions.

Dan
 
You’re not far off!

if you get a bunch of extra $ burning a hole in your pocket I’ll sell you a tiny thermal unit that clips on to your pvs 14 and gives you the image of nv with white or black hot highlights overlaid to draw your attention to things of interest
 

It is surprising the number of buyers who think they want a clip-on thermal scope, and then realize what a pain in the butt the scope is and that instead of people a part of a jack of all trades sort of deal, it turns out to be a lot of compromises and hassles.

No doubt Leica is going to make a nice product. Not arguing about that at this point as nobody here (that I know of, state side) has seen one/used on in the field state side.

However, here are the problems with this particular setup as it is and as it appears in the promo images/videos

This appears to be a proprietary mating between a Leica clip-on thermal and day optic. I have not seen anything on adapters for other brands of optics. If proprietary, then you have to buy their day scope to go with the clip-on thermal. That would greatly diminish the utility of the clip-on.

Clip-ons that hang off the front of the day optic as shown in the image put a LOT of stress on the daylight scope barrel at the point of the front scope ring. Some scopes are heavy duty enough and can handle it. Lightweight scopes cannot. Even if they can under normal circumstances, you still have all that extra material hanging on the front t catch on things or otherwise be influenced when getting carried that will strong the day scope at the front scope ring point. Torque is the key problem that I am lamenting. You can avoid damage to the day scope with a clip-on that rail mounts in front of the day optic, but that has some additional issues as well.

Operating the thermal clip-on is not convenient. The bigger the day scope, the farther away all the controls are for adjustment. Maybe you are a tall guy with ape-like arms and it isn't an issue. Maybe you are a short guy and it is a huge issue.

This is especially true for the NUC (non-uniformity correction/calibration) function that has to be carried out frequently/occasionally during use. Hopefully, the Leica has a semi-auto mode where the sequence is trigger by the shooter. If it only runs in automatic mode (like units from another company), this is a real problem and safety issue because the clip-on will NUC at very in opportune times. During NUC, the screen freezes. Depending on the brand, the NUC process may take anywhere from 3/4 of a second to a couple of seconds. It doesn't sound like much until it happens just as you are pulling the trigger or during a time when you need a follow-up shot. There are numerous hog hunting videos out there where the shooters are trying to stop running hogs and either can't shoot during the freeze of the NUC, or are shooting during the freeze of the NUC despite no longer being able to see where they are actually shooting.

Leica claims their clip-on has repeatability (of zero) and it very well may (all clip-on manufacturers claim this). I think it is going to be a screw-on which is the best way for this to be. If not, then it can probably be mismounted and that means you really don't know if your zero is good until you pull the trigger. I have hunted with guys with clip-ons that all of a sudden find they can't hit anything and so we stop back at the range and find that their zero is many MOA off. They take off the unit, re-install, check zero, and it is spot-on. It is okay to trust that it will work, but the process probably should come with verification each time you remount the clip-on.

Putting and extra 1-1.5 lbs of optic forward on the rifle often "unbalances" the rifle. I am not big into the topic of rifle balance, but this is a common complaint I hear about the setup from those who are particular about how their rifles feel...and they don't like it. It does make for a definite muzzle-heavy feel. I like to think it helps with recoil.

Most to the folks that I know that have gone the clip-on route have abandoned it to go with a dedicated thermal rifle scope. The perceived flexibility advantages did not outweigh the disadvantages. Clip-ons will be great in some circumstances, such as for coyote hunters who have their nice little stands and can setup and wait, then break down everything and travel to a new location for another stand.

------------

Dan made some good points, but a couple I will quibble with, and I will limit discussion to traditional NV (not digital NV) and thermal.

You can walk, ride a bike, read a map, read a book, pretty much anything you can do with natural light you can do with night vision. With thermal the print on the book will be the same temp as the paper so it won’t stand out. You could also walk right into a an armadillo hole with thermal if you were trying to navigate discretely since it’s the same temperature as the surrounding ground.

You can do most things with night vision that you can do with natural light, but even with Gen III when you are under the tree canopy, you will need an IR illuminator to make night vision useful. On moonless nights, you will often need IR illuminators as well in order to make night vision useful.

I navigate with thermal all the time. Whether or not I can see an armadillo hole has to do with the heat of the ground, particularly how uniform it is, and the thermal sensitivity of the thermal optic. Thermal sensitivity is improving. Used to be that a good rain would homogenize the thermal view such that only the animals would stand out against a grey background, though the background might include a field with a few trees and backed by an entire forest. Some of the new thermals will still pick a lot of the background out into even worse thermal conditions because of improved thermal sensitivity. There still comes a point where things just look like crap, however. This is called thermal crossover.

You can see through glass with NV, but not with thermal. Depth perception is poor with NV and is terrible with thermal. You CAN read the print in a book with thermal IF you heat of the page (such as with sunlight) such that the inked letters will differentially absorb heat from the rest of the page. This is an extreme example, only noting that it isn't impossible, just hugely difficult to accomplish.

Thermal is the undisputed champion of identifying living objects!

I am going to strongly disagree with this point and reclarify it. Thermal is the undisputed champion of spotting thermally distinct objects. Thermal is not a biosensor. It doesn't care if an object is alive or dead, only whether or not it stands out from the surroundings by being warmer or cooler. Identification is a whole other matter. You can spot things in the shadows of the night with thermal that people with night vision only wish they could see. Camo'd animals are still very much camo'd to people with night vision and equally hard to see. People transitioning from from night vision to thermal often have to go through a learning process to interpret thermal imagery. In the civie market right now, save for a camera coming from I-ray out of China that is high definition (and about $35K and not weapon mountable - yet), the BEST resolution you get with thermal is 640x480 or 512. Zoom is digital, NOT optical. This is critical. That means your best image is at whatever native magnification you have. So if you have a 640x480 3x (native) thermal weapon sight and you double the magnification to 6x by zooming it, you are now looking at a 320x240 resolution image, or 1/4 the resolution. Every time you double the level of mag, you quarter the resolution again. Some of the military vehicle mounted thermals get around this by having a carousel of lenses of different magnifications. When they zoom, the optic literally changes the lens being used, thereby maintain the resolution and achieving true optical zoom. You don't find this on any civie handheld or weapon mountable thermals right now.

Different companies have different classifications for the differences (in pixels) between spotting a target (1 or 2 pixels), recognizing a target, and identifying a target. People do a LOT of shooting based on recognition and not actual identification. There is a difference between these levels and it can be critical. Over the years of hunting, I have confused and seen other hunters confused in trying to identify blobular targets at distance

Claimed ID ACTUAL ID
Coyote -----> Deer
Coyote -----> Jackrabbit
Coyote -----> Domestic dog (some domestics can look exactly like coyotes on thermal)
Coyote -----> Hog
Coyote -----> Fox
Bobcat -----> Coyote
Hog -----> Deer
Hog -----> Calf
Hog -----> Full size adult cow
Hog -----> Owl
Hog -----> Rock (we call these PSRs or 'pig-shaped rocks')
Hog -----> Pool of water (this is on me. I stalked a pool of water in the woods on night. The weird thing is that it appeared to move as I was trying to circle around)
Hog -----> Fawn
Deer -----> Horse
Deer -----> Hog
Deer -----> Coyote
Fawn -----> Hog
Cow -----> Horse
Calf -----> Hog
Calf -----> Deer
Fox -----> Coyote
Raccoon ------> Coyote
Bobcat ------> Raccoon
Mountain Lion -----> Domestic Cat


As hog hunters spotting animals in a field, we will often assess the animals based on behavior and general silhouette. This results on a high confirmation rate of target "identification," but is not infallible. In reality, it is often NOT identification, not initially. It is recognition in many cases until we can identify some particular trait that is absolutely diagnostic of being a particular species.

For example, to distinguish a deer or cattle or horse and a hog, we look for neck length. Long necks # hogs. A deer with its head down eating in 1 foot tall grass can look virtually exactly like a hog with its head down in 8" grass. So we wait for the animal to raise its head. You know what else has a short neck like a hog? A deer with its head turned to the side. If it raises its head while looking to the side, you will perceive the optical illusion afforded by the 2D image of there being a short neck, not necessarily where the head is turned to the side.

We look for movement. Hogs tend to move more and move differently than deer, but not always. Hogs tend to move differently than cattle, but calves and hogs are often both very active.

A buddy of mine killed a raccoon, believing it was a bobcat. He "identified" it as a bobcat based on its short tail. It was missing about half the length of its tail, but it was a raccoon, not a bobcat. Particularly at distance (within shooting distance), the two animals can be of similar size, appear to present the same basic profile, can move in similar manners, and so a shortened tail appeared to be the clincher. It wasn't. Fortunately, the landowner hated raccoons and this was not a problem, but it could have been. This was not an identified target. It was a recognized target.

I could go into a lot more detail on other reasons why thermal isn't great for 'identification' but that would be beating a dead horse. A lot of the problems with thermal "identifications" can be rectified by getting in close. All the really amazing thermal images manufacturers use to sell their products are typically inside of 50 yards and often inside of 25 yards. The animals look absolutely amazing at those distances, even on many lower resolution thermal units. Honestly, however, if I have gotten as close as some of the ad images, I have already assessed the animal based on non-visual criteria such as sounds and smells.

I do believe that for hunters, thermal does offer a significantly higher level of utility for spotting and then closing and identifying (versus just recognizing) prey. It is the king of spotting. It may be the king of recognition. In the right circumstances, it is great for identification, but often it really isn't and a lot of interpretation is applied to understand what the person is seeing.
 
It is surprising the number of buyers who think they want a clip-on thermal scope, and then realize what a pain in the butt the scope is and that instead of people a part of a jack of all trades sort of deal, it turns out to be a lot of compromises and hassles.

It doesn’t surprise me, I would have been overjoyed if lots of the stuff I have used in the past had lived up to manufacturers claims. I am sure others would be too.

This appears to be a proprietary mating between a Leica clip-on thermal and day optic. I have not seen anything on adapters for other brands of optics. If proprietary, then you have to buy their day scope to go with the clip-on thermal. That would greatly diminish the utility of the clip-on.

That could go a long way to cut down on bad reviews. This is a critical area and why many are less than happy with the end result of their “clip on” setup.

You could also walk right into a an armadillo hole with thermal if you were trying to navigate discretely since it’s the same temperature as the surrounding ground.

While some thermal devices have very low sensitivity as well as resolution, some are pretty good. There is also a difference in temperatures of holes vs ground as well as leaves vs dirt, etc. Even cheap thermals can pick up heat signatures off of other surfaces. For example this water has a much more consistent surface temperature than ground with holes in it and yet we can even see the reflection of the trees in it.

BF33C22F-EF64-45A4-97AB-6542BA8938FB.jpeg
 
I haven’t used a clip on thermal but clip on nv is definitely the way to go vs dedicated night scope
 
No doubt Leica is going to make a nice product. Not arguing about that at this point as nobody here (that I know of, state side) has seen one/used on in the field state side.

Yeah, this is a brand new product and it's usually not a good idea to be the first kid on the block. The pic I posted looks photoshopped, unless Leica has also developed some invisible means of mounting the scope to the rifle.

I have no idea if it's worth the price, but it sure looks cool.
 
Yes seeing in shadows can be a little tricky with night vision. A moon makes this worse since you need to turn the gain down quite a bit. I actually prefer clear skies and no moon for just scanning around. I combine this with an IR flashlight for lighting up specific objects.

I appreciate all the information on thermal from everyone here. Thermal is still on my list but I’ve blown my budget for this year!

Thanks,

Dan
 
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