New Machined Aluminum Paper Cartridge Formers

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arcticap

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These paper cartridge formers are listed on the Etsy website.
They're machined aluminum and what sets them apart is that they are caliber and projectile specific.
There are 2 for each caliber, one for ball and one for conical bullets.
There's even a set for the Ruger Old Army.
They cost $35 - $38 each.
The seller's name is: MesaWinds
The heading is: Paper Cartridge Maker for Black Powder Cap and Ball Revolvers

Link to product page: --->>> https://www.etsy.com/listing/739901...ic_search_click=1&bes=1&variation0=1549575224
There's many pages of favorable reviews.

His description states:
These are hand-made, machined aluminum Cartridge Formers.
They allow you to make period-correct paper cartridges for Cap and Ball Revolvers.
They make cartridges that are very firm and durable, just like the originals.
I offer formers for 31, 36 and 44 Caliber. In standard, Dragoon and Walker sizes for both Conical and Round Ball projectiles.
These are quite simply the best, most durable paper cartridge formers available. Precision machined, these will last as long as your revolver! Not affected by humidity as are wooden versions and much more precises. This is a fine tool.
See more information on FaceBook - Mesa Winds Cartridge Formers.

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I have the Eras Gone, Guns of the West(?). Works well. But I-like innovation too, might be a better way. Interesting to see if we get feed back from someone who’s using them.
Could be my technique but mine come off the Eras gone a little loose when using the Eras gone bullets. Round balls pack a little firmer.
 
I have the Eras Gone kit for .36 and .44. It works well. I do like using an empty .303 British case as the initial forming mandrel for .44s, however.
 
An ongoing, I hesitate to say problem,of paper cartridges, is illustrated by the photo. That’s unburned paper from the chambers of a Rogers and Spencer taken this AM after two chamber loads. I shot a total of 48 cartridges and it seems as much of the unburned paper is blown out as is left in the chambers. No mis fires and it’s a joy to just load and shoot.
Others have said they have no unburned paper so I’m wondering if I can’t nitrate this Raw Cigarette paper and get complete combustion. Maybe it’s the glue as they(unburned paper) 72BA46B8-B186-49DA-8311-1706E5B96D52.jpeg seem to be the first 1/4 inch or so of the cartridge base.
 
Cigarette paper may be tedious to nitrate because it's so thin.
Or maybe you just need to dilute your glue?
You can always try experimenting with silkspan light tissue paper.
What kind of glue are you using?
 
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An ongoing, I hesitate to say problem,of paper cartridges, is illustrated by the photo. That’s unburned paper from the chambers of a Rogers and Spencer taken this AM after two chamber loads. I shot a total of 48 cartridges and it seems as much of the unburned paper is blown out as is left in the chambers. No mis fires and it’s a joy to just load and shoot.
Others have said they have no unburned paper so I’m wondering if I can’t nitrate this Raw Cigarette paper and get complete combustion. Maybe it’s the glue as they(unburned paper) View attachment 992067 seem to be the first 1/4 inch or so of the cartridge base.

I have two Euroarms R&S. Love them. I shoot paper cartridges, Bugler cigarette papers, and do not get that much unburned paper left in cylinders, so there is some sort of difference going on. Are those the paper cartridge bottoms? You mention glue. Are you using a glue beyond what comes on the papers?

Since we are not using these revolvers in combat, running a bronze brush into the chamber before loading doesn’t seem too much of an imposition.

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OK, so how do paper cartridges work? You form the paper, stick a ball in the end, add powder, and twist it up? Then you just stuff the wnole thing powder end first into the cylinder when loading? These work with a wad?
 
if one watches the ErasGone video, using the cartridge former in my earlier post, on YOUTube he uses a stick glue, Amazon’s house brand came with the set. Used that up and now use a brand from the Dollar Tree. it’s purple dries clear but goes on thicker than I like.
Typing this up it occurs to me what we see in my photo looks like where the end paper is glued to the paper cylinder while it’s on the form. Apparently It is the glue that’s not burning off.
The outlaw kid in his thread on making caps mentions a glue that does burn off.

The unburned powder is more an annoyance while cleaning the cylinder than anything else
In the past I have made cartridges on a dowel with twisted ends. They work well it’s just these are really neat looking and load into the chambers so well. They box well and seem quite durable.
 
An ongoing, I hesitate to say problem,of paper cartridges, is illustrated by the photo. That’s unburned paper from the chambers of a Rogers and Spencer taken this AM after two chamber loads. I shot a total of 48 cartridges and it seems as much of the unburned paper is blown out as is left in the chambers. No mis fires and it’s a joy to just load and shoot.
Others have said they have no unburned paper so I’m wondering if I can’t nitrate this Raw Cigarette paper and get complete combustion. Maybe it’s the glue as they(unburned paper) View attachment 992067 seem to be the first 1/4 inch or so of the cartridge base.

I had the same problem so I nitrated the papers that came in the kit and will be trying them out tomorrow to see.
 
if one watches the ErasGone video, using the cartridge former in my earlier post, on YOUTube he uses a stick glue, Amazon’s house brand came with the set. Used that up and now use a brand from the Dollar Tree. it’s purple dries clear but goes on thicker than I like.
Typing this up it occurs to me what we see in my photo looks like where the end paper is glued to the paper cylinder while it’s on the form. Apparently It is the glue that’s not burning off.
The outlaw kid in his thread on making caps mentions a glue that does burn off.

The unburned powder is more an annoyance while cleaning the cylinder than anything else
In the past I have made cartridges on a dowel with twisted ends. They work well it’s just these are really neat looking and load into the chambers so well. They box well and seem quite durable.
Duco cement burns... even more so when you thin it with acetone
 
if one watches the ErasGone video, using the cartridge former in my earlier post, on YOUTube he uses a stick glue, Amazon’s house brand came with the set. Used that up and now use a brand from the Dollar Tree. it’s purple dries clear but goes on thicker than I like.
Typing this up it occurs to me what we see in my photo looks like where the end paper is glued to the paper cylinder while it’s on the form. Apparently It is the glue that’s not burning off.
The outlaw kid in his thread on making caps mentions a glue that does burn off.

The unburned powder is more an annoyance while cleaning the cylinder than anything else
In the past I have made cartridges on a dowel with twisted ends. They work well it’s just these are really neat looking and load into the chambers so well. They box well and seem quite durable.
I’m for talking @TheOutlawKid into making his square form cartridges available commercially.... those are works of art!
 
if one watches the ErasGone video, using the cartridge former in my earlier post, on YOUTube he uses a stick glue, Amazon’s house brand came with the set. Used that up and now use a brand from the Dollar Tree. it’s purple dries clear but goes on thicker than I like.
Typing this up it occurs to me what we see in my photo looks like where the end paper is glued to the paper cylinder while it’s on the form. Apparently It is the glue that’s not burning off.
The outlaw kid in his thread on making caps mentions a glue that does burn off.

The unburned powder is more an annoyance while cleaning the cylinder than anything else
In the past I have made cartridges on a dowel with twisted ends. They work well it’s just these are really neat looking and load into the chambers so well. They box well and seem quite durable.

So, do I understand that your paper cartridges are more complex than simply a tube made from cigarette paper twisted off at both ends with the rails cut off?

I find I get very little paper residue using just the cigarette paper such that when the ball is seated, it ruptures the cartridge. I am guessing that torn paper cartridge then burns more completely. This may or may not be helpful...
 
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Here’s a photo of what the finished cartridge looks like. Looking at the base one can see the double thick paper where the end paper is glued on. That’s what’s left in the chamber I’m thinking. There were two in some chambers so I’m guessing a lot gets either consumed in the next firing or gets blown out.

I can only guess if the cartridge is ruptured when it’s compressed by the rammer. They slip in real nice.

I’m going to order that Duo glue and experiment, it doesn’t looks as if it’s something designed for paper but as suggested thinned with aceton and brushed on maybe it will work.

The unburned papers not creating any problem but it’s fun to experiment and I do like lithe end result of the ease of loafing at the range.
 
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#Arcticap : Thread
I ordered the set for the ROA. Trying to load the .457 round ball into the paper tube formed on the erasgone former doesn’t work well. Could use one for the Walker as well.........., stim money so why not. ;)
 
#Arcticap : Thread
I ordered the set for the ROA. Trying to load the .457 round ball into the paper tube formed on the erasgone former doesn’t work well. Could use one for the Walker as well.........., stim money so why not. ;)

Great! Let us know how it works out.
 
Neat. Wish I made some when I was taking tools and practices (extra machine shop class used to make stuff).
 
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