S&W Model 65 Strange goings on...

bangswitch said:

Never use a thread locker on the extractor rod, not even the weakest type. There is a tool to use to give you enough torque to keep it tight, unless the threads have been damaged. When you try to tighten it, make sure you have at least three, and preferably six, empty cases in the cylinder. They take up the strain of torquing the extractor rod; otherwise, you'll likely damage the two small locator pins in the back side of the extractor star as well as the groove on the extractor rod.

If the cylinder can get past the stop when swung out there is usually either a bent, twisted or loose yoke (excess side-play). That may also make cylinder lock-up more difficult. There could also be excess side-play in the extractor sleeve.

Is that a Dash-2? (M65-2)

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Is this the tool you are referring to?
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ols/extractor-rod-tool-for-s-w-prod26886.aspx

Glad you figured the main issue out!

If you took the side plate off you may have mixed up the screws when you replaced it. The front yoke screw is a different length than the other side plate screws. If you switched screws that could account for the cylinder over riding the stop. Something to check.

I’d sure check your cylinder gaps with a feeler gauge. You may have excessive rearward travel of the cylinder. I had a 65 with a barely bent pawl that badly locked things up. Once it was out of the gun you could see that it wasn’t right.

I’d take this gun to a good gunsmith and have it carefully inspected.

Hockey7711 said:

I think it's the original...from the 1970's

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When you swing out the cylinder, the model number is stamped inside the yoke cut-out on the frame. It should say model 65, or model 65-1, or Model 65-2. I know it isn't a dash-3 or later, because you have the pinned barrel and recessed cylinder. The threads on your extractor rod are left-hand thread, BTW.

Pat Riot said:

Is this the tool you are referring to?
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ols/extractor-rod-tool-for-s-w-prod26886.aspx

Click to expand...

It's one of them. You can use a Jacob's chuck just as well, but never apply power to it. All you need is something bigger in diameter that will clamp to the rod without damaging it.

Slix Springs makes a chamber scraper for cleaning .357 Mag chambers that have rings from .38 Special ammo. I have one and it works. Other calibers too.


https://www.slixprings.com/proddetail.php?prod=SliXprings-Scraper

bangswitch said:

It's one of them. You can use a Jacob's chuck just as well, but never apply power to it. All you need is something bigger in diameter that will clamp to the rod without damaging it.

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Thank you.

I wouldn't use WD40 on a gun. It gets gummy. There a a hundred better products to use on a gun

OP, did you buy the gun used or are you the original owner?

I ask this because some folks will snap cylinders closed “Hollywood style” and bend or damage the cylinder yoke and other fitted parts by doing this act a bunch. It can tweak the gun enough that the cylinder moves out more from the frame causing the slipping past the frame stud.

If the cylinder keeps sliding past the stop stud, or the gun tightens up a lot while firing (with the ejector rod tight), a bent yoke may be a cause. (My 686+ had an out of spec yoke that caused the cylinder to drag when hot. It required a return to the factory.)

Nice 65! I have a .357 Model 13 and .38 Model 64, I love those slick-sighted K frame Smiths! Hopefully someday I’ll grab a 65 to go along with them .

Stay safe.

I'm still concerned about the cylinder jumping the frame stud when open; that isn't supposed to happen. It's either a bent yoke or an undersized stud.
Rio' may well be right; some damnfool being a cowboy with the cylinder.
Be in touch with S&W; their customer service is first rate. They have fixed things for me (full disclaimer; it was never something caused by abuse or neglect; things like out of spec chambers/out of time chambers) even on used guns.
But at a bare minimum, they will fix it right.
Moon

I would definitely have it looked at for the cylinder stop stud.