any browning men on here? shotgun question

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Yes, that's why I mentioned the RST A-5 specific load. Your basic dove load is 1 oz. (or 7/8) at 1200. I was trying to steer him away from the Fiocchi Golden Pheasant-type 1400+ loads.

As soon as I find a used MEC 600 Jr. in 16, I plan on adding the 'shorty' kit and loading them also.

fishguts said:
thanks for all this great info guys but looks to be 2 3/4 i was worried it wasent. did they make both that year? im lost ps i tightend the forearm retainer screw deal. LOLView attachment 990080
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Sure, get us all worked up over the chamber, THEN post this pic.......
 
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...With the bolt open said:
My Pop has the 12 ga version from Savage, and I still shudder when I think of that thing slamming a round home as you describe. Actually, I think the shudder was an induced reaction going forward after my thumb got caught in there... Thanks for the memory, he says with a shudder......
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entropy said:
Yes, that's why I mentioned the RST A-5 specific load. Your basic dove load is 1 oz. (or 7/8) at 1200. I was trying to steer him away from the Fiocchi Golden Pheasant-type 1400+ loads.

As soon as I find a used MEC 600 Jr. in 16, I plan on adding the 'shorty' kit and loading them also.
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OK, though I think an Auto-5 is about as strong a shotgun as there is. As long as it’s set up for heavy loads.

And I’ve put away my Short Kit. I can get 1 ounce of shot plus a spreader if I use an over shot card and fold crimp it in place. Roll crimps are for guys that love reloading more than shooting.
 
one more quick question is there any chance someone here could or would know someone who could fix this crack? or were i may be able to buy one? i doubut that mostlikely. thanks guys IMG_3033.JPG
 
You could send it to the previously mentioned Art’s Gun Shop. Art Isaacson is the foremost Browning Auto-5 expert in the US. But Art himself told me that he just uses superglue to repair forearm cracks. You can do it yourself. Use some sort of clamp. Surgical tubing works well.
 
entropy said:
:rofl: You are correct, Sir! (to quote Ed McMahon) The RST plastic hulls have a 6 pt. crimp. If I find some all brass hulls, I might play with roll crimps then. Not in any volume, though! ;)
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A friend had a custom 3" chamber 16 SxS built and then had some folks (IIRC in WY) turn him some 3" 16 gauge brass hulls. The idea was to develop a 1-1/4 or 1-3/8 load for pheasants using over shot cards and glue. DEFINITELY spending more time making ammo than shooting it
 
Rudolph31 said:
You could send it to the previously mentioned Art’s Gun Shop. Art Isaacson is the foremost Browning Auto-5 expert in the US. But Art himself told me that he just uses superglue to repair forearm cracks. You can do it yourself. Use some sort of clamp. Surgical tubing works well.
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Superglue will set up while you're trying to clamp it. Get the glue in, quickly line it up correctly by hand and hold it lined up for two or three minutes.

In addition to getting the friction rings matched to the load, it's important that the outside of the mag tube is properly lubed. Get it clean, then put a drop of gun oil on a rag and lightly wipe the tube surface, just enough to put a thin film overall. Use ordinary gun oil, no moly or teflon super duper low friction lubes. You need some lube to prevent wear and rust, but enough friction to control the action.
 
natman said:
Superglue will set up while you're trying to clamp it. Get the glue in, quickly line it up correctly by hand and hold it lined up for two or three minutes.
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You're right, of course. My use of surgical tubing was with other glues.

About that oil on the mag tube, JMB himself recommended 30 weight motor oil.
 
Another comment on cracks in the forearm. Randy Wakeman says they occur because the barrel ring rubs the wood. His cure is to remove the high spots by wrapping a dowel with sand paper and sanding until a dollar bill can easily be slid between.

In my opinion another reason they occur is a loose mag cap. Every few rounds I retract the barrel an inch and make sure it’s hand tight.
 
Randy Wakeman also shoots a 20 ga. very well at 27 yards in trap. o_O (according to him.) He's a legend in his own mind, and a joke amongst serious shotgunners.
A-5 forearm cracking is from setting the rings for the lowest setting, then shooting hot shells, or removing the rings entirely to ensure function with any shells in any conditions. I don't know how many A-5 I've pulled the cracked forearm of off to find only the friction ring, or none at all.
However, if you have an uncracked forearm, his suggestion is valid in helping it to stay uncracked, provided the rings are set correctly.
 
I would suggest that you get or make your own Browning screwdrivers. Most screw driver makers, make a Browning set, with thin, hardened blades. You should also have a long shank screwdriver to remove the pull bolt from the butt stock, it is under the butt plate.
If you put 1/2 of a moth ball in the stock hole under the butt plate, it will prevent moths from laying eggs on the buffalo horn butt plate. When the eggs hatch, the larva eat the horn.
 
Armorer 101 said:
I would suggest that you get or make your own Browning screwdrivers. Most screw driver makers, make a Browning set, with thin, hardened blades. You should also have a long shank screwdriver to remove the pull bolt from the butt stock, it is under the butt plate.
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You will need special screwdrivers for the thin slots FN puts in their screws. Brownells sells a great set, but they’re out of stock at the moment. I also bought a set by Grace, and found the blades to be too thin, and brittle.

But you won’t need a long shank screwdriver, because the stock isn’t attached that way.

APonEEm.jpg

The stock is fastened by a screw in the tang. In the picture it’s the one furthest to the left. The one next to it is its lock screw. The screw on the right is the mainspring screw. Take that one out by mistake and you’ll have to do more disassembly than you planned on to get it back in.
 
Armorer 101 said:
If you put 1/2 of a moth ball in the stock hole under the butt plate, it will prevent moths from laying eggs on the buffalo horn butt plate. When the eggs hatch, the larva eat the horn.
Click to expand...

I have read that parasites eat the horn, but I never knew they were moth larva. Interesting trick about the moth ball. But the stench might keep me away from the gun too.
 
such great info, thanks all, would it be dangerous to shoot as is? i tryed to squeeze the crack together. its almost like it warped naturally, almost impossible to hold closed.
 
i had three 12 ga A-5,s, a 3" mag with 32 " barrel, a standard 12 ga with a 30" barrel, and a 12 ga lightweight with a 28" barrel. all were in ex used condition when i bought them and i all the ring-springs replaced, i never had any issues with any of them, but due to my age and their weight i sold the first two and keep the light weight.
 
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