Browning Bar faulty ejection

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Reload Joe

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I recently purchased a Browning Bar Mark 3, Hells Canyon Speed in a .270 caliber. The gun has a cerakote finish. I fired the gun for the first time, firing 15 rounds. After shooting I discovered marks on the receiver just behind the ejection port. The marks are from the shell casing impacting the receiver during ejection. The marks have removed the cerakote finish down to the metal. Has anyone ever experienced this with their Browning Bars?
 
Not particular to the BAR, but this is quite common in semi-autos that eject with excess energy. They every gobbed a giant aluminium zit on the side of the M4/AR15 upper receiver to deflect brass forward.

Your BAR is tuned to be reliable with a wide range of ammo, so it ejects with vigor. A bit of contact cement and a postage stamp of rubber inner tube will prevent further marring.
 
FWIW, the host of the Military Arms Channel on YT usually puts a piece of 'helicopter tape' on the receiver behind the ejection port on autoloaders without shell deflectors to protect the finish.

View attachment 993467
Thanks for the fix. I’m not crazy about putting adhesive on the receiver, but I don’t want it to be marred up any more than it is.
 
Not particular to the BAR, but this is quite common in semi-autos that eject with excess energy. They every gobbed a giant aluminium zit on the side of the M4/AR15 upper receiver to deflect brass forward.

Your BAR is tuned to be reliable with a wide range of ammo, so it ejects with vigor. A bit of contact cement and a postage stamp of rubber inner tube will prevent further marring.
Thanks, I wish the had some type of brass deflector that could be attached to the receiver. The cerakote finish isn’t going to last long at this rate unless I tape it or cover it somehow.
 
Thanks for the fix. I’m not crazy about putting adhesive on the receiver, but I don’t want it to be marred up any more than it is.

Depending on the type of adhesive, Ronson lighter fluid (aka naphtha) is usually an effective and relatively safe solvent. About 35 years ago I discovered this trick at a bookstore where we used it for removing price tags before gift wrapping.
 
If you're willing to put up with it you might be able to stick a piece of silicone tubing on the charging handle to help deflect shells away from the receiver.

I'd probably go a tape or some other kind of pad though, I haven't found any common solvents that strip cerakote so it wouldn't be too horribly concerned about trying to get the goo off.
 
It’s not faulty.
As an example, my M1A. It’s pretty standard for a semi-auto rifle.
Just beauty marks

Beauty marks not unique to semi's, Nature Boy, a bolt gun can also fall victim, especially when engaged in enough rapid fire matches, as evidenced by the patch of electrician's tape visible just forward of the bolt on this Mod. 70. Keeps the splinters to a minimum. ;)
36897532556_93e96beaed_o.jpg

Regards,
hps
 
My mk2 did it till i messed with the gas system, it dosent do it as often now.

Just checked my .308 BAR which has probably 100-150 rounds through it and discovered a couple of pretty good dings behind EP. I notice it throws most brass about 8'-10' @ 3 o'clock with a few @
4-5 o'clock.

LoonWulf, did you notice a difference as to where your rifle tossed the MT's when you adjusted the gas block? I'm still getting one out of just about every 5 shot group opening group from 3/4 moa to 1.25 moa. That is about the same ratio as the number of 4-5 o'clock brass. Was wondering if cutting back a bit on the gas block might not help, since my 308 has such a robust cycle? Wondering if slowing down the cycle might help that a bit? (Still a good possibility that the flier is shooter's eyesight, not the rifle, however, but a change of scope will soon resolve that issue.:()

Regards,
hps
 
Beauty marks not unique to semi's, Nature Boy, a bolt gun can also fall victim, especially when engaged in enough rapid fire matches, as evidenced by the patch of electrician's tape visible just forward of the bolt on this Mod. 70. Keeps the splinters to a minimum. ;)
View attachment 993963

Regards,
hps
Thats true, my bolt guns have dings in the cerakote also, id forgotten about that.

Just checked my .308 BAR which has probably 100-150 rounds through it and discovered a couple of pretty good dings behind EP. I notice it throws most brass about 8'-10' @ 3 o'clock with a few @
4-5 o'clock.

LoonWulf, did you notice a difference as to where your rifle tossed the MT's when you adjusted the gas block? I'm still getting one out of just about every 5 shot group opening group from 3/4 moa to 1.25 moa. That is about the same ratio as the number of 4-5 o'clock brass. Was wondering if cutting back a bit on the gas block might not help, since my 308 has such a robust cycle? Wondering if slowing down the cycle might help that a bit? (Still a good possibility that the flier is shooter's eyesight, not the rifle, however, but a change of scope will soon resolve that issue.:()

Regards,
hps
Turning down the gas system, replacing the smooshed recoil buffer, and old recoil spring with a wolff, as well as removing forend/barrel contact, and adjusting screw tension all happened at the same time.......i was bored.....
Thus i cant say for sure, but before doing thr work thr gun would pretty consistently shoot 1.5" or so, with a random flyer being a noticeable distance from the other shots.
My gas systems turned down primarily to deal with the unusually heavy charge of 8133 im running behind the 162s in my 7mag. I havent tinkered enough to see if i can get it to effect accuracy yet.....ill say this, the guns much more pleasant, and my brass is all in a pile about 2 o'clock. I might be a little light on the gas tho, well see how the gun runs dirty.
 
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