N9NWO
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the average new home is just wood frame with sliding on the outside and drywall on the inside. A Sawzall can just cut right thru most houses in minutes.
Just How Safe is YOUR Safe?
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the average new home is just wood frame with sliding on the outside and drywall on the inside. A Sawzall can just cut right thru most houses in minutes.
N9NWO
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The problem is that we do not live in walled communities with other gun owners. A secure wall with interlocking homes (and owners) is the first line of defense. Then build a house that is a fortress. Within that a vault that is nearly as strong as what a bank has.
weeniewawa
Member
not what I was talking about, this saw will cut through any safe made in very little time and they will use your own electricity to do it
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...98ec467ae8761ff2215126fdff348f0b&gclsrc=3p.ds
Thunderchicken
Member
Most people don’t stop to think how often you have to replace your rabid wolverine—they only last a week or two at full effectiveness. I bet your wolverine is sickly—or even dead. The smart money is on the carefully-balanced Visible Anthill stocked with South American fire ants.
WestKentucky
Member
Nothing like teaching those who do not know how to do it... how to do it
thought of this scene... couldn’t find the meme though
Andy- you know what it’s about? You’ll like it it’s about a prison break
Red- well we should file that one under educational oughten we?
N9NWO
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We have a number of burglaries in the Indianapolis area where they cut thru the walls and then had total access to the house. A chop saw would have also been useful on many safes. But then we had a state cop who had a safe which was unlocked and had an MP5 with suppressor stolen.
Obturation
Member
I use only the most pregnant wolverines , I also keep pixie sticks and mountain dew in there so when they do eat they won't get lethargic. Safety is my #1 priority .
DeepSouth
Random Guy
My dad has the corded version of this and I’ll tell you it is a beast. It’ll cut through 1/4” plate like it’s nothing. Get into 3/8 or 1/2” you have to slow down a bit but it’s still impressive. I haven’t used it on anything thicker than that, I’m also not sure if it will work or hard metals like AR500 or if it’s mainly for A36 and such.
Thing is LOUD though.
dh1633pm
Contributing Member
Safes give protection from honest thieves. Your belongings are only as safe as the honesty of those around you. Determination will break into everything.
DeepSouth
Random Guy
Their was a liquor store close to where I lived at one time, right on the side of a major highway.
Once people took an axe and chopped a hole through a wall.
Once they pulled of a piece of the metal roof off and went in from the top.
Once they tore apart the walk in cooler that stuck out the back, I’m not sure how they did that one, but they got in.
Finally they just busted a door down and burnt it to the ground to cover their tracks.
Yes, they had an alarm, cameras, whole thing but when response times are measured in hours it really doesn’t matter.
Anchorite
Member
Had a client once in which he was a victim. He was the owner of an electrical supply business. He placed his safe against an exterior wall. Thieves cut the wall and made off with the safe. Something to think about.
Conelrad
Member
I'd be concerned with the fire rating. Seems to more guns are lost via house fires than theft.
A 60-minute rating would protect the contents from getting too hot & burning if your place went up.
One of my friends had several "well rated" gun safes with a great collection of vintage military rifles. His house burned, and all the guns were ruined. All wood turned to charcoal, all metal temper gone.
Conelrad
A 60-minute rating would protect the contents from getting too hot & burning if your place went up.
One of my friends had several "well rated" gun safes with a great collection of vintage military rifles. His house burned, and all the guns were ruined. All wood turned to charcoal, all metal temper gone.
Conelrad
troy fairweather
Member
I've been to a lot of fires, I wouldn't waste any money on a "fire" raided safe.
WestKentucky
Member
I will never understand fires in the home being so detrimental. We have for decades had suitable building materials at affordable prices that will minimize or eliminate fire risk. Concrete slab and tile is pretty safe. Throw some rugs on it and even if they burn it’s not a big deal, but most will not support combustion without chemical aid.
That said, I wasn’t fortunate enough to build my house so I bought what was available and I would lose everything in a fire. There are relatively inexpensive fire suppression systems. Fire trace tube triggers, or shatter valves and a small co2 bottle bank are not expensive. A full blown sprinkler system isn’t really all that expensive either, they just aren’t pretty.
That said, I wasn’t fortunate enough to build my house so I bought what was available and I would lose everything in a fire. There are relatively inexpensive fire suppression systems. Fire trace tube triggers, or shatter valves and a small co2 bottle bank are not expensive. A full blown sprinkler system isn’t really all that expensive either, they just aren’t pretty.
troy fairweather
Member
A new house will burn 4x faster then a house made 50 years ago. I've seen guns ruined in safes even when they fire wasn't in the same room. If the safe can keep flames out it gets so not plastics will melt and wood turns to charcoal.
MedWheeler
Member
Mine is the strongest, most-undefeatable one built. In fact, I'm quite sure everyone here has one just like it.
That's all anyone needs to know.
That's all anyone needs to know.
RETG
Member
My safe is only to protect the guns from the majority of burglars who break into the house for a quick rob and run when I am not home. They might give the save five minutes of their time but most do not carry power tools with them unless they are directly targeting something. And can't see the first type bringing my power equipment out of the garage to cut out a safe and lug it out the front door.
Therefore, my first line of defense is the security system, that has plenty of safe-guards to work even if power is cut.
If all that fails, I have some great insurance.
Therefore, my first line of defense is the security system, that has plenty of safe-guards to work even if power is cut.
If all that fails, I have some great insurance.
wiscoaster
Member
I don't have a safe. But if you come to my house to steal my guns, you'd best bring some of those heavy-duty power tools pictured above - you'll need them. Oh, and don't wake me up, or the neighbors, either.
FAS1
Member
I would rather spend my money on a safe with thick steel and a door seal than thinner steel with gypsum board. Thicker steel takes longer to heat up and while providing better security, it will probably fair as well or better than the other in a fire. A lot of different fire ratings/tests done by the manufactures themselves and not really independent like a UL rating. Are any of them guaranteeing the contents in a fire?
N9NWO
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remember that a good safe has concrete or something similar between the metal
weeniewawa
Member
because most cheap chiner safes that claim to be fire rated are using sheet rock which basically melts at 400 degrees or so.
if you want a truly fire resistant safe it is going to cost you but if you live somewhere the fire department may take a while to get there, it is worth it.
CapnMac
Member
Luckily, house fires are not incredibly common. Also, if you live in a city with a full-time FD, response times are pretty short, which means knocking a fire down quickly. If it's detected quickly, of course.
A number of States are now requiring NFPA 13D residential sprinklers. Many municipalities then amend the City code to exempt single and two family homes from 13D--it's a complicated circle. Fire resistance, as Troy points out, is not common in house building, especially y tract builders. That's because the materials are expensive, as are the labor hours required. So, they get skipped, or modified, or something.
Now, a person can improve on fire resistance in existing buildings. Even in just discrete areas, like around an RSC. (Get rock wool blown into the wall cavities will double a given wall's Resistance.)
Now, most RSC only really 'guarantee' to keep the contents under 200-240ºF for most of the duration claimed. Some use Type "X" gypsum board, as it will steam off its entrained water vapor, just like it would on your walls, to around 480-500ºF where the facing starts to fail. That's getting close to the 600ºF "flash over" point, too.
trackskippy
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With the right blades, you can easily cut both.
Something like that Stihl demo saw will go right through the full depth of the blade of steel-reinforced concrete with no troubles at all. The thin steel on most safes wouldnt slow it down a bit, even the thicker doors, not that they would be the first choice anyway. The rest of the box would be a lot easier.
wiscoaster
Member
And that's why the Supreme Court needs to rule that outside the home carry is protected by the Second Amendment.
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