Ruger New Model Blackhawk Tuning - Help!

Status
Not open for further replies.

Greenhorny

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
6
Hello

I have a Ruger New model Blackhawk .45 Colt / ACP. Now I have given it to a gunsmith for a tune up. He told me that he has now installed the tuning kit, but things are still a little "clunky / rattling". I told him that I'm going to check out forums for further information and advice.

First I want to make sure that the tuning kit I ordered is really the right one. I think it is, but just to be sure: It is the "POWER CUSTOM Hammer/Vaquero® Trigger Kit, Silver" from Brownells with part number 713000046.

https://www.brownells.ch/epages/Swi...ucts&SearchString=713000046&ICShowAllFacets=1

What the installation of the hammer concernes, I have already been able to gather a lot of valuable information. I am more interested in advice concerning the installation of the other parts of the kit; trigger, springs, etc.

I would be very happy if you could give me tips and information for the installation; what to consider, what are the possible difficulties respectively stumbling blocks, etc.?

Thanks in advance and greetings
Greenhorny
 
Clunky and rattling? Can you explain in more detail?

The link took me to a kit with a BH trigger and Bisley hammer pairing that has a half-cock. Is that what you had installed?
 
The "clunk" is the cylinder play on the base pin. Mine did the same thing. Get the Belt Mountain base pin. Tightens it up. Groups better too. If you're looking for the best accuracy that you can do yourself, get the proper crown reamer. Forcing cone reamer, and ream the throats to a uniform size. Turned mine into a tack driver.

Have your 'smith install a hammer and trigger shim kit. Polish up the mating surfaces.

You're already in for a penny, might as well go for the pound. It'll cost a bit but worth every penny in the long run.

I spent almost as much on tools and tuning as I did for the gun. Then I fired off 20 times that in ammo. I enjoyed each and every round. The gun and tuning wound up to be the minor expense.

Very few shooting pleasues equal cutting the 10 ring out of a target at 20 yards with an "obsolete, old six shooter"
 
Last edited:
Thanks a lot for your answers.

It's the transfer bar that is making the noise.

So, what transfer bar do you recommend?

Get the Belt Mountain base pin

Is this really the right one for a New Model Blackhawk? The description says "for Super Blackhawk (.44mag). But maybe it just depends on the frame and this may be the same. But I don't know how easy it is to order it in Switzerland. I find this only on the page of Midway.
And:
what about the POWER CUSTOM Ruger® Large Frame Base Pin 2.875"? On the same page of brownells as the shims:
https://www.brownells-deutschland.de/RUGER-HAMMER-TRIGGER-SHIMS
Is this pin worse than the Belt Mountain Pin?

And finally:
Have your 'smith install a hammer and trigger shim kit
Would this be the right one?:
POWER CUSTOM RUGER® HAMMER & TRIGGER SHIMS
https://www.brownells-deutschland.de/RUGER-HAMMER-TRIGGER-SHIMS
 
Thank you for your answers.
I will send the information to my gunsmith. I'm gonna inform you, when I know more
 
I called my gunsmith 10 minutes ago and asked him to describe the problem(s) a bit more in detail. He said:

It scratches on the trigger catch when pulling the trigger
 
Almost sounds like he's trying to describe a creepy and rough trigger pull, not much of a tuner if he's having trouble with something like that.
 

Standard accurizing technique for revolvers. Forcing cones are often uneven and too short/narrow. Optimum width and depth depend on what loads/bullets you are shooting. You can goo too big, so it is not just a "more is better" thing. Cylinder throats are variable and can actually deform the bullet before it gets to the barrel. Making them uniform size helps accuracy.

A customer telling a “specialist” what they need to do, with information gathered from unknown sources, doesn’t make me very comfortable.

I'm with you on that.

Greenhorny, I suggest that you get the Kuhnhausen book on Ruger Single Actions listed at this link - Heritage Gun Books - Ruger Single Action Revolvers Repair and Maintenance Manual. I believe that Midway and others also may also stock that The book is a wonderful resource for owners who wish to understand their firearm even if they do not plan to work on it themselves. It also serves the working gunsmith.
 
I don't know what he's charging you, but I would wait and send it to a known smith that has tons of experience working on single actions.
There are several.

Hamilton Bowen
Dave Clements
Jack Huntington

I'm sure there are a lot of others that are qualified and would do great work, but I would save up and have one of the masters work on it.
I have a NM Super Blackhawk that I want to get tuned, and I will wait until I can have one of them do it.
 
I seem to recall the forcing cones on the Rugers being at 5 degrees, if I'm right you wanna be careful that's what the reamer you stick in there is the same angle. I may be wrong on that angle, anyone else wanna weigh in?
 
Fellas, he is in Switzerland, so not much chance that he would be sending it back to the US.

I seem to recall the forcing cones on the Rugers being at 5 degrees...

That is true of late (~ post 83) double actions, although earlier ones were about 9-1/2 degrees per Kuhnhausen. I'm not sure about the single actions. The angle is not nearly as significant as consistency, smoothness, and lack of tool marks. 18 degree is generally recommended for jacketed bullets and 11 degrees for lead. However, if the gun has a 5 degree forcing cone, recutting to 11 or 18 degress would create a double angle cone. Whether that would be really detrimental or is just conjecture is unknown. Not sure that Greenhorny is at the point of needing to consider forcing cone work anyway. I think the Kuhnhausen book and some serious study is his best/least expensive option at this point. Once he understands the gun, then he can make an informed decision.
 
t's done. My gunsmith have sent me my Ruger back.

- Bisley Hammer: How I wished it to be. No I can reach the hammer without changing my hand-position.
- Trigger: another world. Much softer and with three "klicks" like a Colt.
- Cylinder Timing: unfortunately as before. Wheeling the cylinder loading the gun, the holes of the cylinder still doesn't fit right behind the loading gate (such as with a Colt). But honestly I didn't expect, that this could be done without a lot more time in the tuning process resp. with more experience such as American gunsmiths probably have.

But!!!
As I mentioned: the trigger is much softer now, but extremely soft, or better said, much too soft. I guess the trigger weight is clearly lighter than at my SIG P210 Pistol and more or less the same as at my small caliber Hämmerli-Sport Pistol (1'000g resp. 35 Ounces or 2.2 Pounds). I like that at my Hämmerli, but for a single-action tank as my Ruger in Caliber .45 LC or ACP I think it is much to light. I can hardly touch the trigger and shots set off.

I wrote my Gunsmith today, asking to adjust it a little heavier again (to 1.4-1.6 kg / 3-3.5 pounds). I wonder, what he will answer.

Another possibility is to adjust it on my own, but I hardly dare.
 
- Cylinder Timing: unfortunately as before. Wheeling the cylinder loading the gun, the holes of the cylinder still doesn't fit right behind the loading gate (such as with a Colt). But honestly I didn't expect, that this could be done without a lot more time in the tuning process resp. with more experience such as American gunsmiths probably have.

If you bought the kit you linked to in the OP, it has a half cock position. Put the gun to half cock, and open the gate. The chambers will line up. If it won't open on half cock, either your smith did something wrong, or the kit is not the same as the one you linked to.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top