Well i bought it a ww2 double barrel..

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I'm not going to lie and say fantastic, but I will say better welding than I can do. (I'd call my son to do it if I needed it done.) It looks sturdy enough. As MacAR said, clean it up, maybe a quick heat n' quench, cold blue, and get the stock done. :thumbup:
 
Uhg god this shotgun is hard to put together.. th3 barrels when they drop and go up dont engage the firing pin for the triggers. Why ? Im confused.

Those two little legs on the main part of the gun below th3 barrel arent moving theyre just stuck
 
The forearm iron probably cocks them when it is put on. when you took the action apart, you took the tension off the springs. If you don't have the stock on yet, disconnect the bars coming back from them, push them back/up, put the forearm on, reassemble the action, and reattach the arms.
 
I just realized the safety spring is broken too lol.. now how am i gonns find a new spring for that...


I fixed the firing pin and trigger issue.. the issue was aparentky welding the firing levers (warped them) i had to bend them off the triggers. Th3y were being lifted too high so the V and tooth on the firing pin werent catching. Thats fixed.

I can put the gun together.. but i just lost that tiny ass pin for the safety.. ive been combing my entire room and caroet.. i might need to get s giant magnet to find it.. i think it went in the carpet fibers.

Im making a new pin now out of a allen wrench i cut. But with the safety spring broken.. geesh..
 
Well th3 closest match for a safety spring is a 1900 remington. Looks nearly 100% identical. So im going to order it on amazon. The safety does work... but its very stiff.. probably from thr broken spring and i think i need to adjust some things inside. The glue filled in some spaces for moving parts and i had to clear it out for them.

Anyway right now 3verything functions.. triggers.. latch to drop barrel. Safety works if i do it manually. So i just gatta remember to either flil it on when i drop the barrel.. or just dont put fingers near the trigger lols.

It fires and works great. I just need to get some shells now and test it. Oh and i have to match the dowels to the stock.

I also used a penny to rub off as best as i could whatever that orange substance was on the engraving.. it woroed really well and now its shiney metal.. still has some spots i couldnt get off.. but oh well.

Guns all oiled up and i cleaned and polished the wood.. damn this shotgun looks nice.

Im debating.. should i have the action blued back to factory ? Or should i leave it ? Honestly im thinking if leaving it.

This was one hell of a experience. I didnt know the internals on these things were so sensitive to position.. and so forth. Learned alot by messing with it. Just glad i repaired it.. and hopefully itll fire once again


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I would leave it. Most of these guns were either color case hardened, or coin finish. Just be sure to keep it well oiled or, Renaissance Wax works well when stored , it might need to be reapplied if shot a lot.
A few more minor touch ups, and you have a shotgun you can enjoy and with care, pass on to the next generation!
 
It was case hardened.. i see it on top where the lever is. And its on th flat part the barrel lays on.. its also under the bottom plate and inside the guns internals.

So it wore off. See thr case hardening color it once had.

Im going to leave it alone though. It looks better silver. Thanks for the comments guys. Sorry i had to drill and dowel in a 80 year old highely engraved shotgun.. i just dont have thousands to pay for it to be proffesionally repaired. I just hope it works.. if it cracks again ill have to drill the dowels out and use metal ones..

finally found a website with 16ga shells in stock. They are Nobel Sport Italia rounds. Never heard of them but i dont know much about shotgun shells. I ordered 6 and 8 shot shells. Ordered 175 of em lol. They were .50 a round not a bad price. Range and sport ones. The only issue is they are high velocity. 1330fps. But they are the only lead 16ga i could find in stock. So i imagine these are going to have high recoil with that much fps. I guess this will be a good test of the gunstock.

I wont lie im worried thr barrels and stock will blow up in my face lol


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If that Gustloff weighs about 6# like it looks like it does, you'll get a good nudge from it. My Sauer is just under 6#, and even with the 2.5" shells it kicks pretty good!
 
That gun isn't gonna blow up. It'll thump pretty good, though. But, you could always have a recoil pad fitted if it was too much. 1& 1/8oz of #6 shot is the best 16 gauge load, in my opinion, and I've used it for just about all kinds of game. You'll enjoy that gun a lot, I'm almost certain.

Mac
 
http://www.fiocchiusa.com/shotshell/golden-series/golden-pheasant/16gp6.html

Yes, that'll thump ya good!

For everything except wild pheasants (game farm pheasants, chukar, grouse, etc.) this would be sufficient:

http://www.fiocchiusa.com/shotshell/field-dynamics/upland-game/16hv6.html

I have these for my Sauer for pheasants:

http://www.rstshells.com/store/p/113-16-Ga-2-1/2-Lite-Vel-1200-1-oz-Load-Box.aspx


If you want to keep the recoil to a minimum:

http://www.rstshells.com/store/p/116-16-Ga-2-1/2-Ultra-Lite-Vel-1100-3/4-oz-Load-Box.aspx

When they become available again, that is.
 
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Gunny USMC is a gunstock repair guru this is what he said about glues recently:
For repairs I us Acraglas or Devcon Clear 2 Ton epoxy with 30 minute set time.
Gun stocks are subjected to heavy and violent recoil. Wood glue and some epoxies don’t hold up. The fast set epoxies dry to hard and are just a little to brittle for stock repairs.
You are correct that wood glue is not for filling gaps. This is because wood glue sticks to things very good, but it doesn’t stick to itself very well. Wood glue is just bad Ju Ju when it comes to stock repairs.
Epoxy sticks to surfaces very well, but will also stick to itself. As long as the gap or void is not to big, on filler is needed. But when filling areas such as when glass bedding a fiberglass flex is needed to add strength to it.

Acraglas and Devcon are impervious to oils and solvents once they have cured, wood gules are not. And we all know that gun stocks get exposed to oils and solvents all the time.
Old military stocks are pretty much soaked with oil, some more the others. It’s important to clean the oil from the repair area so that the epoxy will adhere. As time goes by the oil will work it’s way back into the area and the epoxy will hold. With wood glue, the oil will start to break down it’s hold on the wood.
I’m doing a repair right now that wood glue was used on. I will end up spending more time removing the old glue then it will take me to do the repair itself.
On wood working project, other then stocks, that have gaps, epoxies work great. I have a 9” Cypress bowl blank that has a large crack that runs across it. I’m using epoxy to fill the crack before I turn it.
CA glue dries to brittle for stock repairs, but is great for wood working projects. Sanding dust can be added into cracks and voids and then a thin CA glue used to make it solid. I prefer Star Bond CA glues.
I hope that this answers your questions.

Bull
 
Nothing filler.. once you clamp the breaks its just the cracks meshing till you dont even see en in a thin line.

This epoxy isnt drying hard.. i have it left over in my mixing thing. And its (soft) been over 3 days now i believe.. and its not hard brittle. I can stick a finger nail in it and make a dent. Super glue dries hard as a rock but this clear weld so far is soft.. well see though

Hopefully this stuff works..

I just covered the hole openings. I order some walnut plugs. Tan Wood glue. Some lint sead oil and mini brushes.. i had to make my own plugs because ny holes are tiny.

But here it is. Its not perfect.. but its good enough for me.. i cant get it any beter than this..

Before and after

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If that Gustloff weighs about 6# like it looks like it does, you'll get a good nudge from it. My Sauer is just under 6#, and even with the 2.5" shells it kicks pretty good!


Its very light. I was surprised how light weight it is. Im not sure how much it is, but it weighs about the same or less actually than my 44 Henry rifle. And the henry is about 6lbs
 
Thank you guys. Ill make a video on youtube and post back when i shoot it. I get my ammo Wed. So ill probably shoot it thursday or friday
 
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